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Thread: Braided or mono for Kenai

  1. #1

    Default Braided or mono for Kenai

    I generally buy my mono in bulk and re-spool every trip or two here in Southern California. Our summertime top water fish (yellowtail, albacore and other tuna species) are hard fighters. However, I do use 60# Spiderwire braid on my trolling rigs.

    I will be visiting Alaska around July 21-25th and I will be fishing the Kenai and targeting reds and rainbows from shore using either a 12# spinning outfit or a 20# casting combination. I will be using heavier gear supplied by the lodge on their guided river trips with the expectation of tying into a King or Silver. The shore fishing will be from the front of the lodge so it will not really be combat fishing.

    My question is, which would be the best; monofilament or braid? The two lines that interest me are:

    Berkley Vanish Transition Crimson Red, a fluorocarbon which is said to be highly visible above water yet invisible below water.

    Stren Sinking Braid, which has sinking qualities and is also far thinner than ordinary monofilament line.

    Any other suggestions will certainly be appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default

    There is no need to use florocarbon on the Kenai River. Go with a high vis line on your spinning reel. I prefer a soft line with low memory like P-Line CXX, or Suffix Elite Mono. You could spool the same line on your baitcasting, or try Maxima UG, or Maxima Solar if you prefer a visible line. You can also tie your leaders using the Maxima UG. Braided lines are best used from a boat when back trolling or when your bobber fishing.

  3. #3
    Member fishNphysician's Avatar
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    Default

    For backtrolling plugs or divers, backbouncing bait, or float fishing (bobber/bait or bobber/jig), braid has no equal. Spool up with the ridiciulously strong tests that are comparable in diameter to light mono that you would otherwise be using for the intended quarry. That way the line will handle more like the mono you are already be accustomed to.

    For pitching hardware, drift fishing bait, flossing reds, I would stick with tried and true mono.
    "Let every angler who loves to fish think what it would mean to him to find the fish were gone." Zane Grey
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  4. #4
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    Default

    I do not have any experience back trolling but for drifting on the bottom I would avoid any braided line and stick with mono.
    I gave two different braided lines a test while fishing for reds and not sure if the line became chafed or what happened but a 6 pound red in the current snapped 50 lb test braided like it was kite string.
    While my son fished with 20 pound mono right beside me and rarely broke off a fish.
    I suspect the low stretch factor of the braided line enabled the reds to snap it rather easily while the mono offered a good deal of give and take.
    Tennessee

  5. #5
    Member DRIFTER_016's Avatar
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    Braid does get worn very quickly when it rubs the bottom. It is not abrasion resistant at all.

  6. #6
    Member duckslayer56's Avatar
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    I always stick to the Maxima UG or P-Line. I see people break fish off left and right with the braid, especially when flossing. To much abraision from rubbing the bottom rocks. If you are fishing anywhere near the bottom use mono.
    Some people call it sky busting... I call it optimism
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  7. #7

    Default Agree

    There is some great information in the previous posts. I was exclusive 30# Berkley Big Game for years until I got a bad batch and broke off 5 fish in a row (all main line breaks)... I switched to 80# Power Pro and haven't lost a fish since (not that it couldn't happen).

    I use the braid for trolling and mono for dragging... I have seen braid stuck on the bottom hold a boat in the current while trying to bust the line.... not a good combo. I can bust 30# mono by thumbing the reel...

    Finally, when combat boat fishing, the braid will win when the king runs into your neighbor's gear... if you know what I mean.

    Good luck

  8. #8
    Member ak_powder_monkey's Avatar
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    mono, more room for error when fighting the fish.
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

  9. #9
    Member RMiller's Avatar
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    I love braided line for any salmon fishing.

    I use spiderwire stealth yellow 65#. It is high vis.

    I do not bottom bounch over a rocky bottom so I have not had the abraision issue.

    Braided is not for combat fishing because it causes the most h3llish tangles ever.

    I think I will go up to the 80# this year. Even though I have never had my line break in two years.

    I cut off about 10' of line ever so often to keep my line fresh.

    For bottom bouncing my leaders were 30# mono but I had problems of snapping the leader on the hookset. I tried to not set the hook so hard but i would not get the hook set and then lose the fish. I like to buggy whip them when I set the hook(I set it 4-5 times). I plan on using 50# for drift rigs this year. My rod is a lamiglas kenai special rated for 25# test so my drag is set for the rod strength.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

  10. #10
    Member fshgde's Avatar
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    Default mono

    I prefer mono when we fish from boat and shoreon the same trip, braided is not abraision resistant and creates nightmare backlash. I like ande but any high quality mono will work. Good luck

  11. #11
    Member moose-head's Avatar
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    Does the slider used for attaching the jet diver cause abrasions on braided line? If so how long before you need to have the idea of that bouncing around in the back of your mind while backtrolling?

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