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Thread: ATV Trailer/Meat Wagon thoughts

  1. #1
    Member BearSlayer's Avatar
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    Question ATV Trailer/Meat Wagon thoughts

    Does anyone have any thoughts on builiding one? How about a suggestion on buying one. I would like a stainless; but the price is too much for me. Probably plastic/rubber.
    thanks

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    I don't know how much money you want to spend but the fiberglass one's run anywhere from 1200 to 2200 dollars, the one's at alaska mining and diving cost around 1300. To me this is alot of money considering one you payed a load of money for the wheeler and two if you made one it would run about 500 dollars or so, if you could find a place that sells aluminum and somewhere that will bend it for you. The only other place that seems likely to have what you want is a place called tagalongak.com. Keep me posted on this if you decide to build one and where you got your materials, hope this helps.

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    If you build one, a couple of thoughts... Keep center of gravity as low as possible, and keep the wheelbase the same width as the machine you will be pulling it with.

    I have a home made trailer that is a simple "T" steel frame with a plywood box on top. "T" is 1 1/2" square tubing with a 1" square tubing foundation for the box. The box dimensions are about 2' wide by 4' long. The entire box can be made out of one sheet of 1/2" plywood. It isn't as big as some of the steel ones, but it keeps me from overloading it and making it top heavy. It will still carry a big load. I usually put heavy items like water jugs and extra fuel in it so the center of gravity is really low.
    AKmud
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/AKmud/213700RMK1-1.jpg


    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

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    Default Meat trailer

    I bought one of the steel trailers that Fred Meyer sells and modified it by raising the box 8 inches above the spindles with square tubing and reinforceng the modified undercarriage with 1/4 inch steel gussets. All welding was done with a buzz box. Cranked the tongue to level it when hitched. Seems to be powder coated. I pull it through the brush with an antique Suzuki 250 4x4. Tracks about 2 or 3 inches outside of the quad's wheelbase. It's a little small but works great. Got considerably less than $500 in it. Just another idea.
    Ken

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    This guy has some decent looking rigs - http://anchorage.craigslist.org/rvs/578162729.html

    Mine looks a lot like the one in the lower left of his 4 pictures.
    AKmud
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/AKmud/213700RMK1-1.jpg


    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

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    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    I will try to post some photo’s tomorrow of the one I made. Three important things to remember no matter what you decide to do. 1 make the tongue long, at least 4 feet long. This will help ensure that you don’t “jack knife” when backing up, or worse yet having the top of the trailer hit the back of your ATV when going thru deep ditches. 2 make the long tongue removable so you are not dealing with it on the trailer etc. and 3 incorporate a swivel into the tongue so when your trailer flips over it doesn’t mangle your hitch.
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

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    Alan has some good tips. The tongue on both of mine are 3 feet but I wished they were longer. One of these days I wll get the swivel hitch as well.

    My expereinces also taught me:

    a. Use 25 inch tires/wheels for more ground clearance and to help keep the tongue level.

    b. Have the wheel base a few inches wider than your atv. This helps insure your trailer doesnt fall into the ruts you just created in that last mud hole you powered through.

    c. Don't use one of those models with the wheels halfway under the box. Stay with a "coffin" style and you will find it is much more stable and less prone to tipping.

    d. Have someone weld a loop onto the tongue so you can disconnect the trailer when you are seriously stuck in a mud bog. Then you can drive out and connect either a tow strap or winch to the trailer to pull it out. Sooner or later you will get stuck with no buddies around and no tree to attach a winch to. 95% of the time one person can get a wheeler unstuck by himself, but the job is almost impossible with a trailer connected.

    e. Pay the extra money for an aluminum box. In the long run it is well worth it.

    f. Have some pieces of angle iron welded in front of each tire at a 45 degree angle. I call these spruce deflectors.
    Tennessee

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    What do you guys use for a coupler? A regular automotive type ball hitch or a pin? I was looking at that the other and the ball hitch doesn't seem to lots of range of movement for off road use.

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    I've got a 1 7/8" ball hitch on mine. I thought about a swivel hitch setup, but I think having a solid hitch has saved the trailer from tipping over a time or two. I don't think I have ever had the wheeler and trailer in a bind up situation that was so bad to need a swivel. Usually when the wheeler is pitching one direction and the trailer the other, it will correct itself well before the hitch suffers damage due to how close the trailer is following behind.

    The times when the solid hitch has saved a tip over for me is typically when the trailer is near empty and is bouncing around. With a load, it tracks really well.
    AKmud
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/AKmud/213700RMK1-1.jpg


    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

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    Member BAR300's Avatar
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    Default got mine at 6 Roblees

    over on Commercial in Anchorage, theres a guy who works there that makes his own trailers. he uses a rubbermaid agricultural tub that's fiberglass or similar, then uses heavy duty axles, and a 1 7/8 hitch, I've used mine 3 times now for hauling moose and gear, works great, it will float, and the tires are slightly taller allowing for more clearance. I got mine two years ago for $600. I know these are not in the same catagory as a pac rat, or an aluminum trailer, but you get what you pay for. so I have a mid priced, mid level trailer I can live with.

  11. #11

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    Just buy a PakRat and be done with it.

  12. #12

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    I just finished building one. I used a Plastic horse water troughs (Animal WHSE). Bought a 4 wheeler wheel Kit from six robblees, welded a T frame from tube steel, tung and axle. Got $450.00 into it. The next one I will build, lighter because this one is a little over built. I was thinking of building for sale. Maybe $7-800.00. I will sale this one for $650.00. If you are interesting in building your own we can get together and talk over differ options

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    Hey Jim, got any pictures?

  14. #14

    Default pics

    atv1.jpg

    atv2.jpg

    My First time doing pics. I hope this works.

  15. #15

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    Well if you are still interested in buying one, i had bought one from Sportsmans a few months back. It was a green plastic looking one with the extreme sticker on it or something like that. I got it for around $3-$400 bucks (i cant remember). I cant tell you how well it will do out on a hunt since i've not really tested it much. My thoughts when purchasing were,

    1- It looks like it may float when loaded lightly (rated for 1200 lbs.)
    2- Not to spendy i guess,
    3- Has a dump bed,
    4- Is the larger one of the two,
    5- Tires are covered,
    6- Really is'nt that heavy.

    I have used it just to pull the kiddos around so far and it done that well. A bit of a bumpy ride for them though. I would have liked to see them come with a larger set of tires but have not taken it through anything ruff yet so dont know if it is necessary yet. May have to make a custom lift kit.

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    You can build one cheap but sometimes it takes time. I have a couple. I keep one here in town, its a relatively smal one. plastic bed with a 1" tube frame but the tounge is 2" I believe (cant remember). it will fit one of those white 150qt coolers in it. great for weekend trips and stuff like that.

    My other one I keep in Tok. to big to be bringing back and forth from anchorage. Its a little to big for a 4 wheeler but it works. All aluminum, except for the axle. its carried a couple of moose with no problems. I think I have about $400 into it but I came into the aluminum at a good deal (relatively free). one thing I did do was put a wing on the tounge, dont know if it makes a difference or not but when I pull it through mud, its alot easier to pull through than my smaller one.

    heres a pic, its the one on the right behind the red 6 wheeler with the 2 drums on the lid.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  17. #17

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    The trailer (green ruber/plastic like) tracks right with the atv tires on my quad. One thing i like is the width and length. It also has a vee'd like shape to the rear of it as it tapers up in the back which i believe will help going up steep inbankments (from hitting back end on ground) or menuevering through opsticles. I had taken it around a little trailed area near home and it does great there. Only thing is when backing its tongue tends to be short enough that if not watching in reverse you can easily jacknife the trailer. Im happy with it so far. Tires are 18-9.5-8 which i believe may not be large enough in the ruff stuff. May lift it after i try it out later and throw on some 22" tires. I dont have any pictures of it yet but may have one tomorrow if i remember to. I am not sure if sportsmans still carries the trailer or not, but if you go there it was hanging on the ceiling when i saw them. Good luck finding what you want.

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    This is what I have in mind, basically a copy of the Mountain Goat Trailer adapted to my needs. Here's a picture I got from another site (forget the rack and fuel cans). I would use it mostly for moose hunting behind my Argo. I would put a winch mount for the detacheable winch on my Argo on the tongue side (on top of where the ammo can is on the picture). Back up the trailer to the downed moose, transfer winch from Argo to trailer, winch the moose in the trailer and drive back to camp. I know, some of us Canucks are weird and like to bring back our moose in one piece back to camp. I could put one of those Rubbermaid tub in it if I wanted to gear clean and dry.

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    Member Kort's Avatar
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    Thumbs up ATV trailer (meat wagon)

    I was over at Alaska ATV Salvage today (Eagle River) and he has a nice trailer that Greer Tank is starting to manufacture. I tried to find some info online but was unsuccessful. This trailer is supper light weight and looks pretty tough. It has a lid that is preformed with inserts and tie downs for 2 action packers. Swing by and check it out.

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    Member jkb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BearSlayer View Post
    Does anyone have any thoughts on builiding one? How about a suggestion on buying one. I would like a stainless; but the price is too much for me. Probably plastic/rubber.
    thanks
    There are some trailer plans on this web site for sale. check the store on the top of the page.

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