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Thread: Bonding anyone?? Wiring question

  1. #1

    Unhappy Bonding anyone?? Wiring question

    I have done my homework but I am still confused. I am putting on a new outboard and wiring system. I have switched from an inboard. My electrical requirements will be minimal. I will have wipers, fish finder, radio, downriggers, and lights. So here are the questions.

    Can I connect everything to a negative buss bar and nothing to the hull?

    What about grounding the fuel filler and tank? I don't exactly want a spark there.

    Thanks again!!

  2. #2
    Member AKBassking's Avatar
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    Default two batteries

    I use two batteries. One is only for starting and then all my accessories are hooked to the other. It is typical ground to the battery not the boat hull.

    ALASKAN SEA-DUCTION
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  3. #3
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    Default Bonding

    It might be a good idea to bond the fuel tank with a ground strap to the hull, and if your filler spout connects to the deck of the boat it will ground itself through the attach point. A negative bus bar is how most boats are done as far as know, so two wires one for power and one for ground are used for all accessories.

    Chris

  4. #4
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    Default

    Grounding or Bonding?
    Bonding is for galvanic protection. You would bond to a sacrificial anode.

  5. #5

    Default Ground Plane

    Your battery negative side of course is connected to the fuse panel common - side. All your positives Line side come to the fuse panel and split to each fuse to the load side ( to devises).
    What can be done and is a good improvement to specially the VHF radio and GPS unit is add a ground plane. The ground plane is a plate of copper attached to the boat where it is always in the water. Great for fiberglass boats don't know if attaching to aluminum hull is the same. Sort of like the ground rod at your house. This cleans up the voltage interference from spark plugs and starter or if you have a electronic system on your stove like Wallas does. Another good idea is to use a shielded cable that feeds your radio it's power and tie the shield to the ground plane. You can get a better input / out put signal on VHF for very little money.

    from a DC Electrical Engineer US Navy
    Clean like you would a windshield your battery top.

  6. #6

    Default

    Never ground your DC electrical system to an aluminum hull boat. Your electronics will hate you.
    Always ground your fuel filler neck.
    If you have an A/C system always use a galvonic isolater.

  7. #7
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    Default better explanation

    By bonding using a ground strap all I meant is attach a metal strap (I would use a piece of stainless steel cable) between the hull and the fuel tank. This eliminates dissimilar charge between the fuel tank and the hull, reducing the possibility of a spark. Since any material can build a static charge on it, it is even a good idea to do this with composite as well and metal hulls. This is my experience with aviation, as I don't have an extremely thourough background with boat fabrication. But I do plan to get there eventually.

    Chris

  8. #8

    Default my understanding now

    First thanks for all of the help!

    All electronics to a Buss bar both + and - that run directly to the battery.

    My aluminum fuel tank is connected to the aluminum hull and the filler neck is also connected to the aluminum hull so I am good there.

  9. #9

    Default

    If you do much fishing in your metal hull boat you may want to take a look at this information. http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=5&p_id=9 I had a "hot" boat because of wiring issues. Really turns the fish off. As a result I have since corrected the issue and improved the catch rate. Interesting reading besides the basic wiring question.

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