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Thread: Best Brass

  1. #1
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    Default Best Brass

    Where do you get your brass? I have been buying most of mine (lately) in bags of 100 at Sportmans for 38, 357 & 44. I usually buy Winchester.
    Whats is best and where do you buy. I did order some 38 sp Starline from Midway but it hasn't arrived yet. Thats for my 642 smith. Mostly I load plinker rounds but I need some 44 thumpers for back country carry.
    What's the best brass for the $ and the best place to buy? I probably have 1000 old 44 cases but I havn't been very good at record keeping so I don't know how old some of it is, 20+ years and 10 to 20 firings. When do you throw old brass away?

  2. #2
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    I get most of my brass from buying factory loaded ammo. It's more economical to buy factory loads to start with. The cost of new brass + bullets + powder + primers is more than factory ammo prices for most calibers.

    And I don't toss brass until it shows signs of damage. With the cost of metal these days, you probably shouldn't toss anything, but be taking it to a scrap metal yard for recycling. You'll be getting a little money back and will be increasing the supply. If we scraped up all the .22 casings on every range and put it all back into raw materials, the price of ammo would probably drop... at least that's what they said in Economics 101.
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  3. #3

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    I take 44 cases where I get them, but segregate them by age. After 4-6 hot loads, they go into my bins for mid-range and reduced loads. Looking at my ammos shelves, most of the newer 44 cases are in red boxes. Looks like that means Federal is my current favorite, but that indicates what I found cheapest the last few times I was buying rather than a dig at any other brand. I don't find a lot of difference between case life in any brand of 44's, so sales and low price are my criteria.

  4. #4
    Member alaska bush man's Avatar
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    Thumbs up WW Brass

    WW is good.......requires prep.

    I like to hunt with FC Nickle.

  5. #5
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    I'm more of a tin can chaser than a handgun hunter so I usually load plinker SWC for practice. When I carry a 44 for protection I load whatever factory stuff I have laying around, which I'm learning by reading this forum may be a big mistake, I really don't know what half of those loads are.
    I always run new brass through a sizer die but I 'm a greenhorn at trimming anything. I bought a Case trimmer a few years back but I have never used it. How critical is case lenght and at what point do you start cutting? Should I set up my trimmer and run every case I have to a consistent lenght? So far I've been talking or thinking only handgun loads but I want and need to start loading for my 338, I have over 100 once fired cases and here is why I bought the trimmer. Do I need to cut all these cases to a consistant size before the first loading? What is an exceptable tolerance or variance in case lenght?
    I know for a fact I have 44 cases that I've loaded more than 10 times and never trimmed. Am I foolish or luckey or what?

  6. #6
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Straight wall pistol cases don't need trimming very often as they don't stretch as much. Look at the case specs in your loading manual. Put your calipers on the cases after sizing and if they are longer than spec, run them through the trimmer.

    With revolver loads, like the 44 Mag, they don't use case length for headspacing and you can go forever without trimming. With auto pistol loads, it becomes more important as they headspace off the front of the case. So a lot depends on caliber and application.

    When you get to necked cases in the high pressure rifle environment, you'll need to trim more often. For accuracy, the length of all the cases needs to be identical and should be spot on with the specs in the book.
    Winter is Coming...

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  7. #7
    Member alaska bush man's Avatar
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    Thumbs up WW

    Alot of Palma shooters use WW or Lapua brass.........Norma and Lapua are excellent but expensive.

  8. #8

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    The good reason for trimming straight walled pistol cases once in a while is crimp consistency. In my bulk loads I lock my dial caliper at a desired length and use it for a "go-no go" gauge to roughly sort cases by length. I've got two sets of dies and have seating and crimp dies set for the shorter and longer length. No big whoop. These are mostly plinking and practice loads.

    For high test loads and hunting, I'll trim each new set of brass for consistency, then adjust the dies accordingly.

  9. #9
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    I noticed the brass prices here lately have jumped a lot at SW. 44 mag used to be about 12.99/100 and this last week I saw it at 22.99/100 for Winchester. I still buy Starline new from Graf & son for about $15.00/100. I should buy a couple thousand before it goes up. Anybody in for a buy?
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



  10. #10

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    I like Rmington and fedrall brass. I believe it is sturdier and lasts longer. Back years ago they used to aneal brass for the .44 at the case mouth . but a close look at the case mouth for a small split is when I would pitch them or trim to .44 special, I did have poor luck with the Win. brass years ago. I have herd good things of Starline also.

  11. #11
    Moderator kingfisherktn's Avatar
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    Default

    Good brass source: www.brassworldeshop.com

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