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Thread: shed roof

  1. #1
    New member reuben_j_cogburn's Avatar
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    Default shed roof

    I'm going to be building my first shack on my place and have decided on a shed roof. I've never built a shed roof so I'm wondering if there is any difference in insulating and venting etc.
    Should I cut my studs and top plate to the angle of my pitch? Would this make the structure stronger?

    thanks ya'll...

    reuben...

  2. #2
    Member alaskachuck's Avatar
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    Default

    I would most definitly cut your studs at the angle of your roof. It will allow you to get maximum penatration of your nails and maximum contact of the stud to your top plate. Insulating is just like any other roof and you can vent your roof just like any other. If your using r-38 for your roof your gonna want to go with a 2x10 or 2x12 rafter to allow enough space for the insulation and the room to vent your roof. Otherwise it can be done just like a standard roof. If your going with a pitch of 6/12 or more I think the 2x10 is plenty stout at 2 foot on center for supporting any snow load. just my thoughts
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  3. #3
    Member alaskachuck's Avatar
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    Default Oh and one more thing

    If your walls are layed out on 16" centers or 24" centers that is the layout I would do for my roof. I like my rafters to be sitting right above the stud on the walls for the best support. Especially in a heavy snow area. Feel free to pm me or email me if you have other questions
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    New member reuben_j_cogburn's Avatar
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    Default thanks

    I plan on using the shack for a workshop /shed so R19 is as heavy as I am going for the roof. I haven't decided on whether I'll be using 2x4 on 16's or 2x6 on 24's.... it will be a money thing... I may post the playout and get opinions tho...
    Thanks for the input and i'll keep you posted..

  5. #5
    Member alaskachuck's Avatar
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    My only suggestion since it is a shop would be to go to 16" centers. Then you will have no worries. with the r-19 there wont be alot of ventalation but then again since it is just a shop i dont see any issues at all. If this shop is not huge going to 16" centers should not be that much more in cost.
    Grandkids, Making big tough guys hearts melt at first sight

  6. #6
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    Default Shed roof.

    Your cabin measurments will dictate 2x10 or 2x12 and your centers.Also, remember to include some vented "Bird blocks".I'd vent both high end and low end so in summer you get good convection.Keep holes high in blocking to prevent insulation from blocking thermals.Have fun.GR

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    I'd never angle the top plate of a wall. Frame your walls with double top plates like normal and cut bird mouths in the rafters at top and bottom walls. Secure with hurricane ties. That's how it's done.

  8. #8
    Member alaskachuck's Avatar
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    Mr Pid, you are correct. I did error in the cutting of the studs. Mr Pid is dead on. My mistake and nice catch. Just for example 10 foot tall wall on one end 8 foot on the other cut the rafters to fit. Great catch Mr Pid. I had a carpenter fart there for a minute. The hurricane ties are made by simspon and called an S-1 i believe
    Last edited by alaskachuck; 02-03-2008 at 11:51. Reason: clips
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  9. #9
    New member reuben_j_cogburn's Avatar
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    Default roof

    Thanks all... Even on 16" centers for the roof I'd need 2x10's?
    This isn't a vacation or weekend hideaway, but my home. I would be removing snow from my roof regularly, as this has been common practice for me for years.......
    The cabin I'm currently living in has 2x6 for the roof and I haven't had sny problems other than whoever built the structure messed up with the metal roofing (nails on the flats)....
    I'll heed your advice and start posting pics of the construction process as soon as I get some more of the details figured out.

    Thanks again...

    reuben..

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    Rafter size is determined by span more than spacing. Tell me the span and I'll tell you what size rafters you need with the two spacings.

  11. #11
    Member alaskachuck's Avatar
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    Default right on again

    Mr Pid is dead on again. Give us the span and then we can configure the lumber size. Pretty easy stuff and look forward to seeing the pics
    Grandkids, Making big tough guys hearts melt at first sight

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    I built that same type of shed using 2x4 walls.The front wall was very high,maybe 10 feet and the back wall maybe 7.5 feet.I used 2x6 on the roof and in the middle spanning across the 2x6's i ran a 2x10 underneath these.Cut the span distance in half,,very strong.

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    I built that same type of shed using 2x4 walls.The front wall was very high,maybe 10 feet and the back wall maybe 7.5 feet.I used 2x6 on the roof and in the middle spanning across the 2x6's i ran a 2x10 underneath these.Cut the span distance in half,,very strong. Shed is 12x12..

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    Default Shed roof..

    Might I mention one thing that will save you lots of grief.Knowing what I know now...I would never use screws to put on metal roofing again.hard lesson learned.They do funny things with summer heat and winter freezing, tend to back out ect.I would go with the metal that you install clips on the sheathing and it snaps on.Snow slides so much better.Roof rake don't catch on the screws.GR

  15. #15
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    A couple of suggestions. If you don't want to bother cutting the birdsmouths, Simpson makes a hanger called a VP-1 that is adjustable for pitch and allows support for the rafters. They are a little pricey though.

    I'm on my 13th year with standard exposed screws on my house and outbuildings. Yes, it's not as good as using the hidden fastner steel roofing, but it's also half the price. I have sold literally hundreds of jobs worth of exposed screw steel and relatively few have any serious problems. Just make sure you use the larger #14 screws if you are using OSB sheething.

  16. #16
    New member reuben_j_cogburn's Avatar
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    Default Span

    The shed will be 12x12, and I did think that I could perhaps run a beam across the middle if needed.
    My calculations for cost are about $20 for a 4x8 panel using 2x4's on 16" centers and 7/16 OSB.
    still working on the cost of floor and roof per panel. I planned on lag bolting the panels together on site.
    roofing will be roll roofing just to get me by until better situated financially.


    Thanks all...


    reuben.

    p.s. still looking for a business partner though..... I want to be up and rolling within 45 days!!


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