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Thread: Tundra Recoils...

  1. #1
    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    Default Tundra Recoils...

    Can anyone tell me the right combination of tools to remove the bottom bolt on the 90s tundra recoils? I remember having problems getting at it the last time I did one. It was really cold when I did it and I ended up cracking the plastic down there and ever since, the recoil housing flexes too much and the pawl slips.

    I toasted another recoil on a different tundra last night and Id like to avoid wrestling with it too hard at -20 with the wrong tools...

    Ive never seen it happen before but the mechansim must have caught the flywheel somehow when I was running last night and tore everything apart. I started smelling something like burning alchohol and then plastic dust started shooting up thru the cowling vents. When I stopped and opened it up to look, the recoil spring was uncoiled and right up against the recoil housing loose. It looks like it totally ate up all the plastic parts including the recoil sheave and all thats left is the spring!! BTW, why are the cowlings so DAM expensive??? They are almost 300 bucks!! You'd think theyd be fairly common as a replacement part.

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    Member mod elan's Avatar
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    I would also like to know why they are so expensive. It's not like they don't use that part anymore. $272 for a complete recoil and $145 for just the housing is crazy.

    Do you take the exhaust out of the machine? I find this is the easiest way to do it. A quarter drive ratchet, 6 inch extension, wobbly, and 10mm socket should do the trick. I think I've also done it with a ratchet and deep socket. This will get you under the motor between the frame and recoil if you have small enough hands. If not then use the extension and wobbly. I also use the rope trick to get the exhaust springs off instead of vise grips.

    Make sure you get all the pieces out of the engine before you install the new recoil. It sucks when a rogue piece bounces around for a while and eventually takes out the stator and/or trigger coils.

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    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    Thanks mod, I know thats a pretty basic question. I just remember trying every socket/extension/ujoint combo in my box and couldnt reach down there without hitting the frame piece. Definantly the exhaust comes off.

    Just curious why the rope trick vs. vice grips? Busted springs? Good call on making sure everything is out of the housing before reassembly. I think I'll take the oil injection off while Im at it. I'm constatnly paranoid that the oil level is not coming down fast enough relative to fuel usage...Probably just paranoia but that little plastic oil pump gear scares me when its cold...

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    Member SusitnaAk's Avatar
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    Default Bolt

    Iv,e Been though this before, not on a Tuntra though, What i did was loosen the motor mount enough to tilt the motor enough to get at those pesky bolts, Hope this works for Ya, I was so pissed one time, I Almost took a dremal tool after it to make room! LOL

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    Member mod elan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkwarthog View Post
    Just curious why the rope trick vs. vice grips? Busted springs? Good call on making sure everything is out of the housing before reassembly. I think I'll take the oil injection off while Im at it. I'm constatnly paranoid that the oil level is not coming down fast enough relative to fuel usage...Probably just paranoia but that little plastic oil pump gear scares me when its cold...
    I hate it when the vise grips slip off. I have lost more than enough blood and skin off my hands in my lifetime. Plus the machine's tool kit comes with an extra rope anyhow.

    I have run into a lot of folks who have taken the oil pumps off the older Tundras. A few guys smoked their top ends one winter when two teeth off the large gear broke. Can't say why the teeth broke but they all started mixing along with a bunch of others.

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    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    Thanks for that idea SusAk, hadnt thought of that.

    Yup, I've got a few knicks taking those exhaust springs off in the past. I was told by an oldtimer that the first thing you do with a tundra is pull of the oil injection. He's been around a long time and never steered me wrong...If nothing else, now just knowing what could happen when Im in BFE make me paranoid about it. Of all the things that can go wrong with a machine in cold temps out on the trail, its just one less thing to worry about. Probably unfounded but I'll sleep better at night..

  7. #7
    Member SusitnaAk's Avatar
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    No problem, Hoped that would work! As for the Oil P.. leave it the way it came, Just Put a little in the tank each time you fill up, That way you have double coverage,Might smoke little more, ajust your mix from what you are seeing in the oil tank, That way keep eye on it and sleep better at night! Just bring couple extra plugs, I order mine 10 at atime, cheaper that way, dennis kirk. Plugs are cheaper than a rebuild, It won,t hurt any thing, i remember when i was a kid our old engines used 25-1 Than 32-1 40-1 50-1 now! Also too ,for the some that let there machines idle alot , Some of those mod,s didn,t inject the oil in until you apply the throttle, had kind of rocker thing down there cables going to both sides, As apply the gas applys more oil! Also that is ajustable, Good luck with it just my 5 cents worth...

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    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    Funny you mention adding a little to the tank each time you fill. I started doing the same thing but then I was paranoid that I'd be fouling plugs too much. Just keeping extra plugs is always a good idea no matter what! THanks

  9. #9
    Member SusitnaAk's Avatar
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    Default Plugs

    Ya, Can,t remember even fouling any because of the extra oil, But I carry them just in case, Mostly give them out to others that didn,t bring extra,s

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