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Thread: New ski bottoms

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    wasilla
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    17

    Default New ski bottoms

    I have a set of landes 2000s and am wanting to put UHMV plastic on them this year. I have seen them with the plastic overlapping 2 inches past the skis. Has anybody done this before? Pictures would help. Do you use the original steel runners or use new plastic runners. Will the plastic shops cut a pattern for you or just buy sheets. How thick of UHMV? Thanks for your help.

  2. #2
    New member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    9

    Default

    I have Landis 2000 on my cub...I re-did my bottoms...added nearly 3" to all edges...works great...left metal skags on bottom...I think I used 1/4" or 3/8".

  3. #3
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    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
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    3,293

    Default

    3/16". Cut it yourself with fine-toothed wood cutting blades on a power saw. Bend the long edges up on a sheet metal break. I still use metal runner strips. I have friends who have switched to UHMW strips. I haven't had any problems to make me want to change mine. When I'm frozen down the entire bottom is frozen, not just the runners, but my bottoms are about as slick as 00 steel wool.

  4. #4
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    Apr 2007
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    I did not bend mine up with a brake... they work fine...even on hard pack and ice...

  5. #5

    Default 00 Steel Wool

    Another one we carry in the kit is one of those plastic pot scrubbers. Takes frost off the tail feathers or ski bottoms quickly w/o damage to the skin. They don't rust either.
    The additional skin on the bottoms seems pretty universal these days and very effective. Makes a 2500 act like a 3000.

  6. #6
    New member
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    3

    Default ski bottoms

    Hello. I've installed bottoms on quite a few aero's. 3/16" is usually used if only doing the ski foot print. But if extending outboard I always use 1/4". Can get 2" field approved but not 3" or more. Have been making skegs from same material. The first couples pairs I did I was bolting them on with countersunk washers and 3/16" screws. Now I've gone to AN rivets with the countersunk washers. Takes a little longer to do but saves like a pound or two in hardwear.
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