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Thread: Blueing

  1. #1
    Member hntr's Avatar
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    Default Blueing

    Who does blueing work around anchorage, or if not anchorage where can I ship it. I already searched this forum

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    Default

    the last time I had a gun re-blued here in Anchorage I used the the services of he who must not be named......... Well...............ok, it was wild west, and I think they just did the prep work and sent it to another guy for the actual blueing, but I dont know for sure. The work was top notch and the gun came back looking great. That being said, If I had to do it again, I would color my rifle with a black sharpie before I suffered the terrible customer service and extreem arrogance of those that work in that shop.
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

  3. #3
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    Default Self Bluing

    I started rebluing my own firearms this past year. I did research on the internet to find out the tricks of the trade and have found that it's not hard to do it right. Just takes the time and effort. I actually have really been enjoying doing it, see the fruits of your own labor. Just reblued an SKS that I've been making into a bubba tactifool type rifle, lol....

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    Default

    I've had bad experiences with local guys.

    I've had good experiences with the factories that made the guns (Better prices, faster turn-a-round).

  5. #5
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    Default Refinishing Firearms

    The easiest way to refinish a utility or military firearm is to parkerize it. If you really want a tough finish you can then paint over the parkerizing with an epoxy paint. The Brits did some of their guns this way; its one tough rust resistant finish. The beauty of parkerizing is that you don't need the high heat and nasty chemicals of standard hot caustic bluing.

    Rust bluing is another option that avoids the curse of hot caustic bluing and is not hard to do at home. Brownell's and others sell the chemical solution. The finish is more of the older style bueing rather than the black shiny modern bluing; the rust finish looks much better to my eyes on the older guns. For double guns rust bluing is almost a must.

    Getting the chemicals here in AK may be the biggest headache with any refinishing.

  6. #6
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    Default I dunno if this will help

    I picked up a flyer from Gunsmith, Stan Jackson, quite a while back.

    It said "Firearms Protective Finishes". (Not bluing, I guess.)

    Here are the numbers on the flyer, from Bauder's Gunstocks. 907-373-8506 (After 5.00 PM, and 9-5 weekends. Also 907-373-6400 after 5:00 PM.

    I never called so don't know any more than this.

    Smitty of the North
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  7. #7
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Default

    Bluing is really not very difficult to do. Sure, if you want a professional factory-looking finish you could send it off. But if you're just refinishing a barrel and/or receiver of a field gun, it can be done in a home workshop easy enough. The Birchwood Casey bluing products work fine.

    The key points are to remove all visible original bluing, finish sand everything to a perfectly shiny finish, absolutely remove all oils with a degreaser immediatley prior to bluing, wear nitrile gloves to avoid fingerprints in the bluing, and even with cold bluing, warm the metal prior to applying the bluing.

    I've done several complete rifles myself and have placed the parts in an oven to bring the temperature up to 120-150°F. When the entire piece is evenly warm, you quickly and evenly apply the cold bluing over the entire surface. If you stop anywhere for too long, you'll leave a line. The finish of cold bluing on properly finished, cleaned, and warmed steel is very comparable to a factory finish.

    I'm not sure about the current climate, but you used to be able to pick up all the needed Birchwood Casey chemicals at the local Payless drug store. I'm sure there must be a gun store in Anchorage that still stocks the stuff. If not, it's out there via mail order.
    Winter is Coming...

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  8. #8

    Default Did my own.

    I used one of the kits you can get off the shelf. My rifle had been stored in a damp gunboot (didn't know) for a couple weeks on a boat. It was bad. I used the kit and it looks like a new rifle. Cheap and easy.

    I do not recall the brand of the kit but if you are interested I can find out.?

  9. #9
    Member hntr's Avatar
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    Default Winchester Factory

    Its a 94 winchester that has some sentimental value, I think I'll try to warm it up in the oven and cold blue it, If I don't like the results I can send it off somewhere.

    I couldn't find any info on whether Winchester would do it. Do they have a custom shop, has anyone delt with the factory for gunsmith work?

    Hntr

  10. #10
    Member hntr's Avatar
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    Default

    Another question.

    It looks like I will have to sand the receiver to try to get out some shallow rust pits.

    I beleive that it is nickel plated prior to blueing. Do I have to worry about sanding all the way through the plating. I beleive that items are normally copper plated before nickel plated and I don't think copper will take the blueing. Is it going to have to be re-plated with nickel?

    I also thought the same about those guys at Wild West Guns, after talking to one of their smiths I'd gladly pay more to go elsewhere.

  11. #11
    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    Default

    I dont think there is any way to blue over nickel? Are you sure it is plated, or are just looking at shiny bare steel?
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

  12. #12
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Default

    That's correct, you cannot blue over nickel plating. If it was previously blue, then it is not nickel plated.
    Winter is Coming...

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  13. #13
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    Thumbs up Blueing

    Over the last several years I have had several weapons re-finished. I have been using a little known, out of the way shop out on the end of Knik River road. Brophy's Gun shop! He has not only done the normal blueing but other types of finishes also. When I have my 1895 Guide gun redone it came out much better then I expected. The action also smoothed out.
    Give him a try.

  14. #14
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Some decent descriptions of the difference between hot and cold bluing on the old wiki site. Might help persuade you as to whether to use a pro that can hot blue or use the home cold blue method.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)
    Winter is Coming...

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  15. #15
    Member hntr's Avatar
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    Default

    Good to know that there is no nickel. I heard that from somewhere. So I can sand the hell out of it to get out the pits.

  16. #16

    Default

    I seemed to recall some of the post 64 M94's were electro coated in a plating to take a blacking, and were not truley hot blued with bluing salts...

  17. #17
    Member hntr's Avatar
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    I tried the cold blueing, both paste and liquid from Birchwood casey. I don't know what the difference in the metal is in the receiver but it did not take the blue like the lever. The lever turned out looking like it was done in the factory. The paste makes a browner finish while the liquid is blue, by alternating the two it came out nice.

    The receiver though was splotchy and it would start to rust immediately. Then when polishing with steel wool to even out it would come off completely. I have a feeling that if I did get it professionally blued the receiver would rust again the first time I used it. I talked to the guy at Brophy's and he said that he does a ceramic finish that's very strong and weather proof. I wanted to restore it for sentimental value but this way my kids kids can use it, hopefully, we'll see after this next election.

  18. #18
    Member alaska bush man's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Gun refinish

    http://www.mtlongguns.com/

    Best I have seen! Montana Long Guns

  19. #19
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Hntr- it's sounding like the receiver is not a straight forward steel. Was it actually blue before you started, or could it have had another kind of finish on it?
    Winter is Coming...

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  20. #20
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    Default

    I sent the barrel off my Benelli R-1 to Blackicecoatings.com to have it Teflon coated. Check it out, cost about the same and the finish is more weather proof.
    Should have mine back soon will report back.
    http://blackicecoatings.com/


    Steve

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