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Thread: articulating flesh flies??

  1. #1
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    Default articulating flesh flies??

    Anybody know where i can get some instructions on tieing articulating/ed flesh flies???

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    try this

    http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid...atedflies.html

    I don't use them, if I want a longer fly, I'll tie on a longer tail and run the body back a bit farther.

    Problem with this is getting hit short.

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    not nessisary for flesh flies IMO (although articulated flesh flies have been very effective for sockeye for me) great for lamprey flies though
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

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    Potbuilder,

    I assume you already know how to tie a flesh fly. Tie the first one and set aside [this is the back hook]. Here are some fast instructions.

    1. Put the front hook in the vise and put a thread base on it.
    2. Cut a 12-inch segment of Spiderwire [35# or greater]. I like using Spiderwire for articulated flies. Aids in the movement. I use Fireline when tying stinger-style flies.
    3. Double over the Spiderwire and feed in through the eye of the back hook. The one you tied and set aside. You need it now. Make a loop-to-loop connection. In this case loop-to-eye.
    4. Line up the eye of the back hook to the bend of the front hook. You can adjust this as needed. Nose to tail is always a good starting point.
    5. Starting at the bend of the front hook [the one in the vise], lash down the Spiderwire with thread. Work your way to the eye making tight back to back wraps with the thread. About an eye length from the eye, fold back the Spiderwire and lash down with tight back to back wraps with thread. Apply a nice thin coat of super glue and let dry for a minute or two. [Note-there are other ways to lash the trailer to the front hook depending on hook style].
    5. Tie on some rabbit like a single flesh and call it a day.
    6. Snip off the front hook. Careful not to cut the Spiderwire. File down the sharp edge.

    For variety you can add marabou at the tail and junction, add weighted eyes/cone to the front, use arctic fox at the tail and junction.

    Lot's of variation here.

    I use tube flies mostly to get a longer fly. A lot easier to tie and you can stack as many as you can cast.

    Hope this helps.

  5. #5

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    forgot to post this earlier.

    Another great fly fishing, tying, etc site is fly anglers online. There are TONS of fly recipes by man of the current top tyers and more addicts like the rest of us then you can fathom to count.

    A simple articulated leach pattern.

    Tie a loop in some spectra or other high performance line of appropriate weight.

    Loop the loop of line through the trailer hook, basically a glorified stinger rig.

    now loop it through the main hook eye.

    Go ahead and tie your fly as per normal or slightly longer to the bend. Clip the main hook if it's a one hook area, and it's not a bad idear to tie a "tail" to the trailer hook adding for one heckuva long fly.

    It does work well for pike flys.

    Or you can glue on top and on bottom two strips of bunny hair. Essentially a bunny leech pattern. leave the strips long and glue on top of the trailer hook. Again cut the forward hook if one hook area and go to town.

    Simple yet effective.

  6. #6

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    Does anyone know if any hook companies make articulate blanks. I always hate having to clip a perfectly good hook. I have gotten away from some of the low end hooks just because they are that, low end. They break easily, and always at inopportune times.

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    Thanks for the tips guys, now its time to sit down at the vise and get to work

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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by cmo1977 View Post
    Does anyone know if any hook companies make articulate blanks. I always hate having to clip a perfectly good hook. I have gotten away from some of the low end hooks just because they are that, low end. They break easily, and always at inopportune times.
    Never heard of it, but I'd buy some! Patent the idea then email mustad!
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

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    Sorry they beat you to it. I can't remember what they are called exactly but I have seen shanks for sale in fly shops that had varying lengths with an eye on both ends. Really nice looking and appeared to be well made. I think that they may have been made by Partridge or a similar company. Also if I remember correctly, they were fairly expensive.

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    They are called waddington shanks and they are made by Partridge. Cheaper to take a Mustad than using wads. Mark H. out of SE Alaska uses a stainless cotter pin 3/64 x 1/2 instead of a wad or another hook.

  11. #11

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    I like the cotter pin idea.

  12. #12

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    problem with the cotter pin idea is when they hit the tail and miss the hook.....kinda defeats the purpose if you gettem to bite and you cant hookem

    the strip leeches work very well, still allow you to hook off a trailer, and don't waste hooks. Really if you do it right you wont have to waste any hooks unless it's one fly waters.

    That or just save some nasty salmon fly hooks, cut the bends off of those and run your trailer. Charter boat capt's tend to have plenty. Easier to retie on premade leaders you've tied up all winter instead of sharpening hooks on most days. Though I do like to sharpen throughout the day when needed, I hate using old hooks tomorrow..... Those old hooks would be your gold mine

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    instead of fishing line, i use 20# fly line backing to connect hooks; articulation is of course pretty good

  14. #14

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    instead of using dacron, if you have some heavy spectra, like halibut line, works even better on toothy's like pike. They'll still eat it, but at a much slower rate then other goodies. Just something to try if you have it handy, if not anything works atleast for a little while

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    How bout that "tyger" leader stuff, seems like it't work good on pike flies, of course pike don't really short strike much...
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

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