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Thread: props

  1. #1

    Question props

    I have 4 stroke 115 HP Yamahas on my boat. Where is a good place to get a pair of aluminum props to replace the stainless ones? I am taking it down the Yukon and up the Koyukyk soon and want spare props along.

  2. #2

    Default

    A-1. They've sold out or moved in the last couple of years, but I've found decent prices there as well as selection. They're now in the curves on Dowling. You have to look hard for the A-1 sign, but they share the building with that place that used to sell snowmobile stuff that actually fronts on Dowling.

  3. #3

    Default

    I've been going there for sometime myself, but always with S.S. I was just curious why you would want alum ? Or is it just for back-up ?

  4. #4

    Default props

    I want the aluminum props on when I run the Yukom and Koyukuk rivers. I will use the stainless for spares.

  5. #5
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    Default Why aluminum?

    I have, or the guys I hunt with, have run the Yukon every year since 1980 using props. We have been going as far as the Koyukuk for 10 odd years. We have never used, nor would I willingly use aluminum props for that trip.
    I have hit pretty hard but have yet to destroy a prop. I am curious as to why you are opting to use aluminum as a primary prop.
    Last year we tried running close to shore and my partner hit big rocks. He was able to limp up to the bridge. The lower unit was hosed, the prop was sent for repairs. An aluminum prop would have gone in the box with the soda cans for scrap.
    The 19 pitch I am using has seen 3 trips on the Yukon. This will be its 4th year. It is still in very good condition. I carry a 17 pitch as a back up and an option in case I am really heavy. That might happen this year as we are thinking about carrying round trip fuel to the Koyukuk.
    Whereas the biggest challenge on the Koyukuk is missing the logs hiding under the surface, the Yukon has everything from silt to boulders. I realize the stainless are more expensive, but their extended life and ability to be rebuilt off set that cost.
    Just in case you have not thought about it, I would bolt on a stainless guard on the lower unit. There is one called SKEGUARD (sp) but it is pretty thin. If you went that route, throw away the barrel bolts that come with it. Get some 1/4" stainless hex head bolts and nyloc nuts. I had a welder make me a guard that is heavier duty. As my boat pull hard to the right, I added a trim tab on the bottom also.
    I'll be running a 22' Alweld, blue top, Aluminum overhead rack, w/ a 150 V-Max Yammy. We'll be there on the 13th. Holler as you go by and save a moose for me.

  6. #6

    Default

    When I ran a prop on the Yukon I would run the Al due to the increased chance of finding a gravel bar which will eat any prop, then when I got to the Nowitna I would put on the SS because you are more likely to tag a submerged tree or stick.

  7. #7
    Member lab man's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LastSplash View Post
    When I ran a prop on the Yukon I would run the Al due to the increased chance of finding a gravel bar which will eat any prop, then when I got to the Nowitna I would put on the SS because you are more likely to tag a submerged tree or stick.
    Wouldn't you want the SS vs. alum in the case of hitting gravel? The stainless steel will hold up much better than the aluminum in any situation I can think of. The only downside is if the stainless is really more than you can afford, and you can get your hands on very cheap aluminum. If I had to use aluminum it would be for the novi, not the koyukuk.

    -Eric

  8. #8
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Default weak link

    If you know you're going to hit something solid, wouldn't you want the weak link to be the prop rather than the drive train of your motor?

  9. #9
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    Default no weak link

    I do not want a weak link. I want my drive train to be balanced and last as long as possible. I would estimate my time on the Yukon to be in excess of 400 hours. Rarely do we hit anything that hard, and in 27 years on the Yukon with multiple boats on the river each year, we have lost 1 lower unit due to a strike.
    I have been running props since 1972. We used to run brass props, and the worked pretty good. We tried aluminum, but they failed miserably. We went to stainless and have stayed there. That history includes 25hp on up.
    The most consistent problem people have is breaking off the bottom of their lower unit because they do not install a steel or stainless steel skeg guard.
    I won't even have an aluminum impellor on my jet units. Sure, I might not be able to pull quite as many rpms due to the extra weight, but I'll live with it.
    As for running aluminum on the Novi, that would not be ideal. Down low where the mud is maybe, but get up higher and the big rocks will give the lower unit and props a hard time.

  10. #10
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Default skeg guard

    What do you use for a skeg guard that works?

  11. #11
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    Default have them built

    There are some factory made units. SKEGUARD looks shiny and nice, but they are a bit thin. Sure better than losing the bottom of your lower unit. I hope RIVERBOATER sees this. He found some that have a bit more flare and cup the prop. When they fit right it is pretty hard to ding the prop. I said it before, but if you get the SKEGUARD throw away the barrel bolts and go to stainless bolts with nyloc nuts.
    I am lucky in that we have several very good welders who like to do favors and special projects. I had the last one for my V-max built and the one for my sons 25hp merc. They are a bit heavier material. Who knows, the next one I might "copy" the style that Riverboater uses. Maybe I will give him a call so he can weigh in on the forum.

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