Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Broken EZ Loader Trailer

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    57

    Default Broken EZ Loader Trailer

    Comming back from the Yukon I broke the support for the bow that the winch is mounted to. The trailer is only three monthes old. Has this happened to any one else before? This is the trailer that came with the boat and it was not overloaded. The road is not to rough as they putting asphalt on alot of the road this year. I am going to claim this under warranty. Also the wireing is also coming apart because they only belive in crimpiming the splices. I have seen this before in this form.

  2. #2
    Member AKBassking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SE Alaska-Summer Columbia River-Winter
    Posts
    2,007

    Default Bad wiring

    EZ Loader never does a good job at wiring! Better to replace the entire wiring harness yourself and do it right!
    Last edited by AKBassking; 08-20-2007 at 10:48. Reason: added

    ALASKAN SEA-DUCTION
    1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
    MMSI# 338131469
    Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/

  3. #3

    Default

    Was the boat's bow tight against the bow stop? I've seen people pull their boat up the ramp and the bow is bouncing around because the boat slid back a bit. But still surprised yours would have broken.

    Wiring....like others here, I cut out the connections and spliced them the correct (waterproof) way. If any lights have gone out (or maybe even if you think that they may....specifically tail lights), then contact EZ Loader and ask for replacements. They know there's a problem with them and should ship them to you at no charge.

  4. #4
    Member JOAT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Soldotna, ALASKA since '78
    Posts
    3,720

    Default Sell it

    EZ Loaders barely qualify as a trailer. Unless you rarely tow them, and never off a paved road, they will break. The wiring and lighting will always fail as none of it is waterproof, yet you dunk the trailer every time you use it. And even worse, the roller design is the worst thing you can do to a boat. If you are running it on the haul road, expect to work your way up to thousands of dollars in boat hull repairs as those stupid little rollers cause tons of pin-point stresses on the hull and wreak havoc on your transom.

    My opinion, sell it now and use the couple hundred you might get for it to buy a solid bunk trailer that is actually welded together. You can find dozens of metal fabricators locally that can build a quality trailer, or you can look for a pre-fab unit like a Baker.

  5. #5
    Member AKBassking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SE Alaska-Summer Columbia River-Winter
    Posts
    2,007

    Unhappy Tend to Agree

    I have an older ez-Loader (1993) and other than the wiring and fenders, I have not had any issues with my river boat. It has been up and down the ALCAN 4 times now. I don't have rollers. But in general I would have to agree with JOAT.

    ALASKAN SEA-DUCTION
    1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
    MMSI# 338131469
    Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/

  6. #6
    Member Jimw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    452

    Default

    I have had mine for two seasons and the only issue I had was a stop\turn light went out. EZ Loader sent me an new on the next day. But my trailer is rated almost twice what the boat weighs and a tandom is a lot easier on the boat than a pogo stick single axel. The dealer ordered it that way. It is to Talkeetna and back almost every weekend, and some is on dirt. The difference between 55 and 65 is about 15 min and a ton of$$ on possiable repairs to both.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Talked to EZ Loader this morning and they asked the same questions. It was tight to the roller. I even stop after the first twenty miles or so and check that nothing has losened up. They are shiping me a new part UPS right a way. They said that might have me ship the broken part for them to look at. The only bad thing about that is I was going to weld it up go out again as I still had four more days left of my week off.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    327

    Default

    Take some good pictures of it broken. Weld her up and get back on the river.

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Thanks for the answers. I did weld it backup to get back on the waterand it worked fine. The question that I have is that I put it back in the same place as it came from the dealer and when I wound it up tight the bow of the boat raised up two to three inches to get it in the right position. It was this way before it broke so I am starting to wonder is the problem with the position of the bracket. Should it be lower down to fix this problem. The new part is here so before I put it on I want to make sure that it is installed in the right position. Thanks for any help.

  10. #10

    Default

    I don't have an answer to your question, but I recommend that you take the trailer/boat to your dealer (hoping they're local) and have him make a suggestion. If you follow their suggestion and end up having the same problem, then maybe you'll have some recourse since that's the way they told you it should be.

  11. #11
    Member JOAT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Soldotna, ALASKA since '78
    Posts
    3,720

    Default

    When properly seated, the boat should stop its forward motion, but the bow should NOT lift up. This puts the weight of the boat on that one little stick instead of spread out on the trailer supports. The correct position would be determined by loading the boat without the bow stop in place (in the shop), then installing it to perfectly match with the parked location of the bow. The bow eye that you connect the winch to should be just below the point where the bow makes contact with the bow stop and the winch should be mounted dead level with this connection point.

    This is part of the reason why you are always better off to get a custom built trailer as opposed to a mass produced factory job (unless the boat manufacturer is supplying a trailer that fits their own boat). All these little adjustments need to be made to fit the boat on a case-by-case basis.

    My 2 cents.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •