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Thread: boat welding question

  1. #1
    grizzeyes
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    Default boat welding question

    picked up a used 1978 16' alumaweld center console sled with a nearly brand new '99 yamaha 35hp oil injected 2 stroker with power trim n tilt for $5,500. He was asking 6,500 but seeing it needed side guide on's and new tires I should have been more tough on my offer but some say I got a steal and a good deal. when I saw the liquid nails, i started asking questions and the guy did not disclose where it was leaking. he just said he didn't know where and then his parter popped up and said it didn't leak much. I should have said right to his face, i'm not talking to you, I'm asking him the question.

    They did offer to take me on the river to test the boat out but i knew if it was a slow leak, that it was safe enough. I fished 4 hrs in it but decided to quit because of the 5" of water at the corners of the stern. Guess I was desperate and stupid. I should have got my drill out and pulled up the floor which only has 6 screws and then try to get his price down even more. I probably would have saved myself 500.00 and got the boat for 5.

    Some welders won't work on hulls with that liquid nails crap but the shop said no problem and I certainly trust them. Anyone have an idea how the weld will hold up? 1/8" inch on the bottom.

  2. #2
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Default

    As far as how a weld will hold up, that's really a complex question. What is the failure, what alloy is being welded, what filler is being used, how well as the joint been prepared, and what type of loads are on the joint (i.e. if it's a highly stressed area, you might get a failure simply because the joint needs to be stronger.)

    I would generally stick to keeping a riveted structure rivited, as welding will make for some stiff spots in the hull vs being completely rivited where stuff can move a little bit.

  3. #3
    grizzeyes
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    sorry bout that. im sure there are many variables on repairing methods. They did say they could master it as they build boats and which is why I took it to them. Guess I was just too board around the house and thought of asking the question. Them guys know what they are doing. I guess if the boat was not repairable, then they would have said so. I have a a bigger problem on my hands now, with giving some guy 4,500 for his suburban when he told me there was nothing wrong with it. I explained to him I had no money and couldn't be affording a major repair. "oh no, she's a runner, you should have no problem, she runs great. I had no wheels but guess I made a terrible mistake trusting someone when they decided to lie about it anyway. He said he was a former river guide. Had a few drift boats and 1 sled on his property. He lied when I asked him if he knew of any problems. He denied it all lying through his teeth and thought only of himself. Today, I found out that the manifold is cracked. Nevermind how long I've had it. I haven't had it but just a few days. This motor could blow up and sieze up any day.

    How long I can drive it I have no idea. Had I enough money, I would have had it checked out before but I trusted him and he tried to sell me a line of how great the stereo was when i can't even pick up am reception with the vehicle running in most places. I wonder why he had the manifold gaskets in the vehicle, that he said he hadn't got around to changing? Probably because he knew the manifold was cracked. Looks like this will be a costly mistake if the court does not rule in my favor. I do have a leaking gasket and I'm going to check to see if it's even legal or safe to drive with a vehicle like this. I won't be trusting of anyone else so easily next time

  4. #4
    Member PatrickH's Avatar
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    Default Stuff Happens

    I am sorry about your problems. I would advise you to always have a mechanic or other skilled tradesman look over your purchases before you buy them. I have rebuilt cars and even I will sometimes take a vehicle to a shop to look over before I buy. It may cost you, but it could save you from the situation you are in.
    As far as pre-exsisting conditions go, sometimes things just break. I was driving my truck down the road and suddenly the head gasket blew and killed the engine. No warning at all. I also drove a car for over a year with a leaking head gasket expecting it to die at any time. It just kept on running normally. I have had windshields crack for no aparant reason. If I had just bought these vehicles I would have wondered about the seller.
    I would be suspicious if there were new manifold gaskets, but maybe he thought he had blown a gasket instead of having a crack. You may be able to have the manifold welded. Depending on where the crack is you should be careful about driving it because you can damage your engine if cool air gets into the engine exhaust area. If the crack is accessable you may be able to get by for a little while by using an exhaust patch compound. Of course it is best to fix it right to start with.
    Good Luck

  5. #5
    Member whateveri8's Avatar
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    Wink try JB Weld

    JB Weld will fix it and hold as a permanent fix if the crack is where I think it is.
    I've had similar alumimium fissures appear in bottoms due to rock strikes, etc and used the JB WELD on the beach to repair and get home. Use the quick dry formula. Keep an unopened package with you as well if the spot fix ever re-opens, but I've never had a problem w/ JB weld failing.
    God, Guns and Guts is what made America Great

  6. #6
    grizzeyes
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    I should have taken care of this today. I called Ace automotive last friday in soldotna and they haven't returned the call yet so if they want to go on a 5 day vacation, I'll take it someplace else. I guess I better get with it because I don't want to lose the motor. I'll give them at JB a call. Thanks a lot

  7. #7
    Member PatrickH's Avatar
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    Default JB Weld

    JB Weld is an epoxy glue that is designed for metals. There is also an aluminum epoxy stick that works well. You can also use epoxy resin and fiberglass to repair and reinforce cracks. Be sure to use a stainless steel brush or sand paper to clean up the aluminum before trying to get anything to stick to it very well. I have also used Lexel sealant (high end silicone adhesive sealant for building) with good results. It is not the recommended use, but it sure fixed a persistant leak in an old aluminum skiff. Once it is set it is nearly impossible to remove.

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