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Thread: Sako 375 muzzle brake?

  1. #1

    Default Sako 375 muzzle brake?

    This is for Murphy, but I'm open to any good advice.

    I have a Sako AV, chambered for 375 H&H. It's a carbine; probably had a Mannlicher stock originally, but now sports a conventional Sako walnut rifle stock and fits well. Outfitted with a Burris 1.5-6x, it's light and handy, but it's not very controllable on the bench. Due to a previous trauma, I've had to deal with a detached retina in my left eye and don't want to have to go through that ordeal anymore. I don't know if that's a real concern, but its always in the back of my mind. So I've been thinking about having a muzzle brake added on. I shoot a Browning A-bolt equipped with a BOSS in 338 WM and it has less felt recoil than my Sako 270 WSM or 300 WM.

    Now I know I'll probably hear some howling protests, but I'll bet those same people have not had 10 eye surgeries in the past 5 years. So please, spare me. Just looking for good information and/or alternatives.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Member shphtr's Avatar
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    Default muzzle brake

    Recommend you do a web search perhaps starting with Vais muzzle brake. There is a lot of info available.

  3. #3
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    Default

    There are several pre-made screw on brakes and all are effective to varying degrees. You barrel is already short so I would say a screw on type would be better and would require the barrel be threaded. In so doing you could also get a threaded collar or thread protector to screw on the rifle on those occasions when you don't want it on or for resale, that seems to appeal to many, the ability to remove the brake. I have seen many good, mean effective brakes and the integral brake Bill Wiseman is the most recoil reduction I've seen. The Vais seems to be the quietest and still very effective. I don't shoot much with brakes my self and don't see as many as some, having shot only a half dozen rifles with them this year.

    There is no doubt they are an effective way to reduce recoil, you know of course about the noise level but that too can be abated to comfort levels.

    One word of caution for the use of brakes on Sako's tapered dovetail mounting system. The types of mounts that rely on rearward recoil to jam the rings/bases tighter against the dovetail will come loose. This includes the Sako rings and Leupold ring mounts and some others. Only the Burris, and Talleys with a set screw in the each base will stay put. The older Warnes with a front and rear recoil shoulder will hold but not the newer Warnes that just clamp on the dovetail will not. The heavier recoilers will launch the scope at your head. So in addition to the brakes you may need new rings. The best and most solid mount is the Burris dual dovetail bases and rings, or use Leupold DD rings with the Burris bases. Thats what I do on several Sakos even without brakes. The Talleys of course are very good but end up pretty high even with the low rings. Good luck with the quest.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



  4. #4

    Default

    After I posted this note, I did a Forum search and found quite a lengthy thread about muzzle brakes (and several shorter ones). Seems like you guys have been through this subject before (and not that long ago). Good info to be had there, so no need to rehash here. I DO like the idea of the thread collar/protector. Any suggestions for a good, reliable, reasonable gunsmith to do the work?

    On the Sako (I should have measured), but the section ahead of the front site is quite short; perhaps about 1/4". Do you think that will be enough, or will having a brake installed require having to move the front site? Anyone have any experience with Magnaport's Mag-Na-Brake?

    Murphy -- regarding the scope mounts. I read what you said in the other thread. I recently started using new Warne QD rings on all my Sakos. The front mount DOES have a small recoil shoulder on the rear edge of the mount, but I can't/don't see that being of much (if any) use. It prevents the mounts from sliding forward on the tapered bases, and from getting tighter as one fires the rifle. But I'm having a bit of trouble following your line of thought about the bases and the brake. The brake would only reduce the amount of rearward thrust, not eliminate it, no? I mean, you're not actually going to get forward thrust (ie, reverse recoil) to the extent that the mounts will want to move backward, are you?

    As always, thanks for the good info.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forestar View Post
    After I posted this note, I did a Forum search and found quite a lengthy thread about muzzle brakes (and several shorter ones). Seems like you guys have been through this subject before (and not that long ago). Good info to be had there, so no need to rehash here. I DO like the idea of the thread collar/protector. Any suggestions for a good, reliable, reasonable gunsmith to do the work?

    On the Sako (I should have measured), but the section ahead of the front site is quite short; perhaps about 1/4". Do you think that will be enough, or will having a brake installed require having to move the front site? Anyone have any experience with Magnaport's Mag-Na-Brake?

    Murphy -- regarding the scope mounts. I read what you said in the other thread. I recently started using new Warne QD rings on all my Sakos. The front mount DOES have a small recoil shoulder on the rear edge of the mount, but I can't/don't see that being of much (if any) use. It prevents the mounts from sliding forward on the tapered bases, and from getting tighter as one fires the rifle. But I'm having a bit of trouble following your line of thought about the bases and the brake. The brake would only reduce the amount of rearward thrust, not eliminate it, no? I mean, you're not actually going to get forward thrust (ie, reverse recoil) to the extent that the mounts will want to move backward, are you?

    As always, thanks for the good info.
    I have this 338 AV that has a Gentry brake on it and a threaded protector collar. The front sight ramp was cut back a little to give enough room for threading this barrel. I'd say it is about 5/16" of threads.

    I was looking at some of the different brakes available, the screw on type, and the Vais and Gentry both claim to be quieter than most and the holes angle forward and straight out, 90 degrees from the barrel. This will still dampen recoil without being as loud. Also it will not give the forard, reverse recoil that will loosen a Sako scope mount. If you call Gary at Dave Talley's place, he'll explain about the Sako dovetail and muzzle brakes and the clamp on ring mounts. Talley won't make an integral mount for the Sako like they do for the CZ's and Rugers because of this reverse thrust from the muzzle brakes.

    In any case it seems that the Gentry and Vais and possible others would work. If they claim to be quiet, that means the ports direct the gas sideways and forward, if not the ports direct the gas rearward. If rearward they will pull the rifle forward.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



  6. #6

    Default Lead Sled option

    In talking with a co-worker this morning, he suggested that before I do anything to the rifle, I should try using a Caldwell lead sled, especially since my problem (if you can call it that) involves load development at the range. Sounds like good advice.

    Anyone have any experience with the Lead Sled?

  7. #7
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    Default I have a Sako .375

    I had Wild West Guns in Anchorage, put one of their muzzle breaks on it and I am VERY please with the results, it has less recoil than my 7MM Mag. Talk to them.

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