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Thread: Ski Doo Tundra II R

  1. #1

    Default Ski Doo Tundra II R

    I have the above machine and it has let me walk home the last three times I have used it. Twice the end of last season and today, my first outing this year. The problem is it will just quit like the key has been turned off. There is no sputtering, the engine just stops. If I wait a while it will restart and I can go a short distance then it will do it again until finally It won't restart and I get to walk. When it happened the first time I took it in to the local dealer and when I went to pick it up the said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They went out and it started right up and they road it around with no problems. So like a dummy I took it out again and it and made it about 200 hundered yards before it quit and would not restart.

    I talked to the dealer and he told me that it sounded like a little black box that controls everything (I can't remember the name) but that it is really expensive if I could even find one and I should just buy a new one. Well I found the box and it was quite expensive but a lot cheaper than a new machine so I ordered it. This was at the end of the season so I installed it this summer and the machnine started right up (this time it wouldn't start until I replaced the box).

    So I go out today to set my line and it happens again. It would restart and I would make a run back towards the truck and make a couple hundered yards and it would quite. I did this about three or four times then it would not restart. I messed with it for a while today before I walked out. I noticed that when I pulled the spark plug today it was dry. I pumped the primer a couple of times and tried to restart it with no luck. The plug was still dry so i really pumped the heck out of it and the plug stayed dry so I started to think it may be a fuel issue (although I thought it strange that it was not sputtering before it died). I pulled the top off of the carburator and verified that fuel was going in when when the primer was pumped. I verified there was spark from the spark plug and there was although I thought it look kind of weak but I don't really know what it should look like and I was not testing under the best condtions. I disconnected the hose from the primer to the carburator and pumped fuel directly into the cylander and it still would not fire.

    I am wondering if you guys have any thoughts? The machine is not that complicated I don't think but this has me stumped and obviously the dealer also.

    Just a note it won't suprise me if it starts right up when I go to retrieve it tomorrow.

  2. #2
    Supporting Member iofthetaiga's Avatar
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    Sounds electrical for sure. And possibly temperature related, but...

    First, I'd be highly suspicious of the ignition switch and kill switches and associated wiring.

    Next; I know you verified spark from the spark plug, but have you replaced the spark plug with a new one? And have you thoroughly inspected the entire length of the plug wire to both confirm it's in good shape and has good connections at both ends?

    After that I'd be suspicious of possibilities like a cracked/intermittent generation coil. I'd also want to verify the stator was in good shape/hasn't come loose.

    But I'd be willing to bet it's a bad kill/ignition switch, or a cracked/damaged/broken wire or connector associated with same.

    The dealer is obviously not putting much effort into it. Forget him. Go over the kill switch wiring with a really fine toothed comb. And then work from there.
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  3. #3
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    I agree with IoftheTaiga- electrical is likely the issue and older sleds can get cracked wires or worn parts easily. I dont think most shops trouble shoot much anymore- especially if it is an inexpensive part and they can sell a new one. We had Tundra R’s and they were super reliable and simple. If you can’t figure it out, I will give you the name of a guy who builds them and restores them.

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    Member Daveinthebush's Avatar
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    I know it is a pain, but you might be at the point of finding a wiring harness and replacing it. There is a scrap yard in Anchorage that might have one but I can't remember the name of it. At least, trace every single wire and replace suspicious sections.

    Hillary moved to NY and I moved out.


  5. #5

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    I had a 91' Lynx with similar issues last year, random dying and sometimes not starting. It was my kill switch. A way to test it is to take a spare trailer 4-prong connector or something similar you have laying around. If your kill switch is like mine, it only has 2 prongs, but no matter. Choose 2 of the prongs on your spare trailer harness and splice their wires together, then plug those 2 prongs into the machine side of your kill switch wire harness.
    The connection is probably somewhere in your handle bar riser, you may have to take the plastic covering crap off like I did. pull it apart and put the jumper you made on there for a bypass. Your kill switch wont work anymore of course, but this is a way to test it. My lynx is so old I don't care and am mindful that I don't have a kill switch anymore...Â….
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  6. #6
    Member Daveinthebush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGAKSTUFF View Post
    I had a 91' Lynx with similar issues last year, random dying and sometimes not starting. It was my kill switch. A way to test it is to take a spare trailer 4-prong connector or something similar you have laying around. If your kill switch is like mine, it only has 2 prongs, but no matter. Choose 2 of the prongs on your spare trailer harness and splice their wires together, then plug those 2 prongs into the machine side of your kill switch wire harness.
    The connection is probably somewhere in your handle bar riser, you may have to take the plastic covering crap off like I did. pull it apart and put the jumper you made on there for a bypass. Your kill switch wont work anymore of course, but this is a way to test it. My lynx is so old I don't care and am mindful that I don't have a kill switch anymore...Â….
    Great idea! Awesome information.

    Hillary moved to NY and I moved out.


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunning View Post
    I have the above machine and it has let me walk home the last three times I have used it. Twice the end of last season and today, my first outing this year. The problem is it will just quit like the key has been turned off. There is no sputtering, the engine just stops. If I wait a while it will restart and I can go a short distance then it will do it again until finally It won't restart and I get to walk. When it happened the first time I took it in to the local dealer and when I went to pick it up the said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They went out and it started right up and they road it around with no problems. So like a dummy I took it out again and it and made it about 200 hundered yards before it quit and would not restart.

    I talked to the dealer and he told me that it sounded like a little black box that controls everything (I can't remember the name) but that it is really expensive if I could even find one and I should just buy a new one. Well I found the box and it was quite expensive but a lot cheaper than a new machine so I ordered it. This was at the end of the season so I installed it this summer and the machnine started right up (this time it wouldn't start until I replaced the box).

    So I go out today to set my line and it happens again. It would restart and I would make a run back towards the truck and make a couple hundered yards and it would quite. I did this about three or four times then it would not restart. I messed with it for a while today before I walked out. I noticed that when I pulled the spark plug today it was dry. I pumped the primer a couple of times and tried to restart it with no luck. The plug was still dry so i really pumped the heck out of it and the plug stayed dry so I started to think it may be a fuel issue (although I thought it strange that it was not sputtering before it died). I pulled the top off of the carburator and verified that fuel was going in when when the primer was pumped. I verified there was spark from the spark plug and there was although I thought it look kind of weak but I don't really know what it should look like and I was not testing under the best condtions. I disconnected the hose from the primer to the carburator and pumped fuel directly into the cylander and it still would not fire.

    I am wondering if you guys have any thoughts? The machine is not that complicated I don't think but this has me stumped and obviously the dealer also.

    Just a note it won't suprise me if it starts right up when I go to retrieve it tomorrow.

    If the machine has spark it is not the kill switch or ignition.

  8. #8
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    If your spark is consistent, even when refusing to run, then look to fuel delivery; a micro-breech/leak in a fuel line will give intermittent performance.

    Could be a stuck float or debris in the carb, as well.

    But back to the spark. If it IS consistent, then look elsewhere.

    As shop tech teacher once said; it needs fuel, spark, and air. 1 of those 3 aren't 'right' on your Ski Doo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ruffle View Post
    If your spark is consistent, even when refusing to run, then look to fuel delivery; a micro-breech/leak in a fuel line will give intermittent performance.

    Could be a stuck float or debris in the carb, as well.

    But back to the spark. If it IS consistent, then look elsewhere.

    As shop tech teacher once said; it needs fuel, spark, and air. 1 of those 3 aren't 'right' on your Ski Doo.
    i also think it is fuel del. It was strange to hear that after using the primer the plugs were still dry they should be wet as a primer dels fuel directly to the cyc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter1951 View Post
    i also think it is fuel del. It was strange to hear that after using the primer the plugs were still dry they should be wet as a primer dels fuel directly to the cyc.
    I should have said the primer pushes fuel to the carb ready for the cyl. Not directly to the cycl.

  11. #11
    Member Daveinthebush's Avatar
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    This might help, might not. My 05 Scandic was having issues, quitting, not starting. I eventually replaced all the fuel lines and it still quit. Finally pulled the fuel line to the tank off, and found that the fuel line inside the tank was completely rotten. Replaced that 2 days after I had given up and bought a 2017 Scandic WT 600. Now I have two machines but won't sell either.

    Hillary moved to NY and I moved out.


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter1951 View Post
    i also think it is fuel del. It was strange to hear that after using the primer the plugs were still dry they should be wet as a primer dels fuel directly to the cyc.
    I put an after-market carb on an early 90s Honda FourTrax this summer. The fuel lines ran at a different angle than the original. It got no fuel.

    In the warmth of summer with the line laying at more of a horizontal angle, the fuel line was folding under its own weight, and crimping itself, refusing to let fuel through. Easiest fix I ever had.

    Point being, there's dozens of scenarios that can affect fuel flow. Go through them methodically, 1 x 1, and if that's the issue, you'll get there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ruffle View Post
    I put an after-market carb on an early 90s Honda FourTrax this summer. The fuel lines ran at a different angle than the original. It got no fuel.

    In the warmth of summer with the line laying at more of a horizontal angle, the fuel line was folding under its own weight, and crimping itself, refusing to let fuel through. Easiest fix I ever had.

    Point being, there's dozens of scenarios that can affect fuel flow. Go through them methodically, 1 x 1, and if that's the issue, you'll get there.

    I wonder if if you put a very small amount of starting fluid down in the cycl. After it dies will it try to start?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter1951 View Post
    I wonder if if you put a very small amount of starting fluid down in the cycl. After it dies will it try to start?
    I would be VERY cautious with ether (or similar) in trying to test ignition.

    For a couple dollars you can get a spark tester that plugs into your plug wire & connects to your plug; it lights up as it sparks. No ka-boom required.

    If it shows spark when not running, then retrace ALL fuel lines.


    Edit: As I wrote earlier, even a micro-leak in a fuel line can be enough to impede flow (or as another poster wrote, clogging in the tank). Sticky float valve/needle, etc. ; same-same.

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    Sounds like it could be the stator. We’ve dealt with similar issues the last couple years. If it is the stator, DO NOT cheap out, go with OEM replacement part.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frostbitten View Post
    Sounds like it could be the stator. We’ve dealt with similar issues the last couple years. If it is the stator, DO NOT cheap out, go with OEM replacement part.
    May be. But if he's getting spark when not running, then it's not likely electrical.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ruffle View Post
    May be. But if he's getting spark when not running, then it's not likely electrical.
    Roger that. The sled we were dealing with would run till it got warm (hot?) then it would just die. Weak, to no spark till it cooled off, then it would start. After 3-4 cycles of this, we couldnt get it going anymore so we towed it. Replaced the stator with a half priced one, didnt even last a full season.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frostbitten View Post
    Roger that. The sled we were dealing with would run till it got warm (hot?) then it would just die. Weak, to no spark till it cooled off, then it would start. After 3-4 cycles of this, we couldnt get it going anymore so we towed it. Replaced the stator with a half priced one, didnt even last a full season.
    Don't know if they're still in biz, but Rick's Motorsport Electric & Rstator (2 separate businesses) used to sell rewound (rebuilt) stators, and at least -used- to have a decent rep.

    I've had both fuel pumps and ignition coils behave intermittently as you describd, too.

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