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Thread: glock 10 jam

  1. #21

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    I am a bit confused. If it feeds the cartridge and then goes bang some times and some times not, is that a malfunction or a jam. Am I nit picking terminology here? I just don't see how polishing a feed ramp is going to make a difference if it already s feeding a round.

    When it is all said and done, I will go with what "gun bugs" said. I would also like to shoot those same rounds out of that pistol and see if I get the same results. Glocks like a tight firm hold.

  2. #22

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    20+# recoil spring and no limp wrist should resolve it. Mine didn't like hardbcast (reliably) until I changed the spring and guide rod.


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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by .338 mag. View Post
    I am a bit confused. If it feeds the cartridge and then goes bang some times and some times not, is that a malfunction or a jam. Am I nit picking terminology here? I just don't see how polishing a feed ramp is going to make a difference if it already s feeding a round.

    When it is all said and done, I will go with what "gun bugs" said. I would also like to shoot those same rounds out of that pistol and see if I get the same results. Glocks like a tight firm hold.
    not limp wristing, I shoot bigger pistols with more kick than this. Its not some times firing, its a problem with ejection. Looks like I need to change out my recoil spring if I want to keep shooting this BB. However, went to the BB site last night and now they have a new one, that is a little lighter, developed with another company ( Lehigh Defense) at only 190 grains in their Dangerous Game Category and they state this
    Our
    Item 21C
    and
    Item 21A
    have killed countless attacking/menacing grizzly and moose in AK. This new
    DG
    load will work the same way.

    And those are 200 and 220 grain

    If I am reading the BB site correct, The 200 will work in an unmodified 10mm, not the 220, which I was trying to do, run 220 in a stock gun When running the 220 ejecting is a problem ( short version of their site)

  4. #24
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    OK. Let's get some terminology squared away here.
    1.Cartridge does not feed from magazine into a clear chamber=Failure to feed.
    2.Fired cartridge is still fully or partially in the chamber after being discharged=Failure to extract.
    3.Fired cartridge is pulled from chamber,(partially or fully),but does not clear the slide and is caught in the action,(stovepipe, etc.)=failure to eject.
    The second two examples will also usually cause a failure to feed in the bargain, as the fired cartridge will prevent feeding the fresh cartridge from the magazine.
    Typically a heavier recoil spring will not cure a failure to extract situation as the OP has described.
    At the distances we usually use a handgun for "bear defense", VERY close, I would think, it probably won't matter what ammo you have in the gun. Reliability would be more important than "penetration".
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunbugs View Post
    OK. Let's get some terminology squared away here.
    1.Cartridge does not feed from magazine into a clear chamber=Failure to feed.
    2.Fired cartridge is still fully or partially in the chamber after being discharged=Failure to extract.
    3.Fired cartridge is pulled from chamber,(partially or fully),but does not clear the slide and is caught in the action,(stovepipe, etc.)=failure to eject.
    The second two examples will also usually cause a failure to feed in the bargain, as the fired cartridge will prevent feeding the fresh cartridge from the magazine.
    Typically a heavier recoil spring will not cure a failure to extract situation as the OP has described.
    At the distances we usually use a handgun for "bear defense", VERY close, I would think, it probably won't matter what ammo you have in the gun. Reliability would be more important than "penetration".
    Thanks, Gunbugs.

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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunbugs View Post
    OK. Let's get some terminology squared away here.
    1.Cartridge does not feed from magazine into a clear chamber=Failure to feed.
    2.Fired cartridge is still fully or partially in the chamber after being discharged=Failure to extract.
    3.Fired cartridge is pulled from chamber,(partially or fully),but does not clear the slide and is caught in the action,(stovepipe, etc.)=failure to eject.
    The second two examples will also usually cause a failure to feed in the bargain, as the fired cartridge will prevent feeding the fresh cartridge from the magazine.
    Typically a heavier recoil spring will not cure a failure to extract situation as the OP has described.
    At the distances we usually use a handgun for "bear defense", VERY close, I would think, it probably won't matter what ammo you have in the gun. Reliability would be more important than "penetration".


    I figure most folks know this stuff but always good to point it out to those who may misuse some of the terms.


    Agreed. Thatís why I said Iíd rather have my gun running correctly than limit my ammo. I want confidence that itíll work when I need it to work.

    We better be careful or the revolver crowd will start talking trash about Glocks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DucksAndDogs View Post
    I figure most folks know this stuff but always good to point it out to those who may misuse some of the terms.


    Agreed. Thatís why I said Iíd rather have my gun running correctly than limit my ammo. I want confidence that itíll work when I need it to work.

    We better be careful or the revolver crowd will start talking trash about Glocks.



    Use what you are comfortable with and will practice with. We all have our reasons but what matters is that you will actually carry and can put shots on target. I carry a 1911 in 10mm, alot of people think that's a poor choice. It shoots hard cast, has a nice trigger, I like carrying it, and can put repeated shots on target. Can shoot it much better than a revolver in 44 mag and more importantly enjoy carrying and shooting it.
    To the op many people successfully carrying the glock 20 and shoot hardcast, if that's what you want to carry and what you want to shoot through it tune it for that and run it.

  8. #28
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    I'm in the same boat. Box ammo at the range, heavy cast ammo in the woods. Polish the feed ramp and upgrade the rod and spring. No clue where you are, but Alaska Ammo usually has them on the shelf for either Gen 3 or 4.

    Gen4..
    http://10mmbelow.com/anchorage_inven...bly/p/62270983

    Gen3..
    http://10mmbelow.com/anchorage_inven...-21/p/62270993

    Straight from Buffalo Bore...
    Full power 10mm ammo has always generated enough recoil and pressure to require a pretty stiff recoil spring in your handgun - that, of course, depends on several variables such as your slide weight, etc. When the cartridge fires, it generates enough pressure/recoil to prematurely open your breech face in some guns. When this happens, the opening breech face has an effect on the burn rate of the powder. This can result in some fairly high extreme spreads in velocity. If you are experiencing extreme velocity spreads of more than 50 fps, simply install a stiffer recoil spring.
    We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DucksAndDogs View Post
    I figure most folks know this stuff but always good to point it out to those who may misuse some of the terms.


    Agreed. Thatís why I said Iíd rather have my gun running correctly than limit my ammo. I want confidence that itíll work when I need it to work.

    We better be careful or the revolver crowd will start talking trash about Glocks.
    My experience is that MOST folks don't know how to describe what malfunction is occurring in the firearm.

    I'll just use the ammo that runs the gun. Modifications often reduce reliability.

    As a revolver guy, I talk trash about Combat Tupperware all the time.

    A lot of confusion happens when folks use the abbreviations "FTF" or "FTE". Both of which can mean two different malfunctions. Just spell it out. It's just letters, don't be afraid.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  10. #30
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    sorry, I should have done some follow up .
    1) yes failure to extract, thus not allowing next to load
    ....................
    so after follow up with the buffalo bore web site, and talking to the nice folks at alaska ammo, a STOCK 10mm glock can not handle the 220 grain. It will fail to extract....or CAN fail to extract
    Buffalo bore came up wiht a newer 190 grain for the STOCK 10mm glocks ( and I assume othes too ) because of this issue.
    to use a 220 grain in a STOCK glock you have to switch the recoil spring. Im not making this up, like I said , its on the buffalo bore site and the guys with knowledge at alaska ammo. Go to buffalo bore site and read for yourself if you want. I should have early on.
    so if your using a stock 10mm glock and stock recoil spring and running buffalo bore 220 grain and not having an issue, your lucky

  11. #31
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    It IS the abbreviations that confuse me.

    Also, I FTU, (Fail To Understand) what is so exciting about 10 mm. You should be able to, Hot Up 45 ACP to Jam capacity, also.

    Is the ballistics of the 10mm superior to that of the 45 ACP, in any meaningful way? For Bears or anything?

    I've been shooting 230 gr FMJ, FLs, and my 200 gr cast SWC HLs. Not trying to extract more power than the norm.

    Steenking Clocks.. Steenking Teen elevens..

    When it comes to handguns for bears, I'm still in Revolver Mode.

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  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by kk alaska View Post
    I used Bufalo Bore recomendations 22# spring on my stock Glock with 220 gr BB ammo works great much more controllable than my wheel guns. Can fire shots down range faster with more accuracy. Plus easier to go out the door with full mag of BB and 2 spare for walk in bear country. Which starts at my door. With the wheel gun a model 29 in 44 mag which I have owned since about 78, always
    spending time looking for right ammo. Just feel more confident with the Glock 20 and 14 of its 220 gr friends than the 29 after shooting them side by side.
    Which is why I switched my stock spring to the 22# one about 5 years ago when I first got the glock, per BB recommendations.

  13. #33
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    Perhaps (I donít know for sure) the followingrelates to the OPís issue:

    My three Glock 10mms (G29, G20, & G40) all haveKKM barrels. So, thereís a difference. None of them reliably rechamber Buffalo Bore 220gr HC loads. The slide often will fail to close all of the way, preventing firing follow-up rounds. They will always fire the first round for some reason. My 6.3Ē10mm Dan Wesson Bruin fires them fine.

    As to the Glocks (albeit with KKM barrels), I think itís an issue with the COAL perhaps combined with the shape of the BB bullets. My three 10mm Glocks and my 6.3Ē 10mm Dan WessonBruin all fire DoubleTap 200gr HC and Underwood 220gr and 200gr HC without anyfail ever. The UW 220gr HC leaves the barrel over 50 fps faster than the BB 220gr HC.

    Try the UW 220gr HC, it might work fine. Iíve chronoed many of them: I actually carry, in angry bear country, the solid-copperUW 140gr Extreme Penetrator. From tests Iíve seen, it penetrates about 70% or 80% as much as the 220gr HC, but does alot more damage along the way. It does not appear to deform in animals. YMMV.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarineHawk View Post
    Perhaps (I donít know for sure) the followingrelates to the OPís issue:

    My three Glock 10mms (G29, G20, & G40) all haveKKM barrels. So, thereís a difference. None of them reliably rechamber Buffalo Bore 220gr HC loads. The slide often will fail to close all of the way, preventing firing follow-up rounds. They will always fire the first round for some reason. My 6.3Ē10mm Dan Wesson Bruin fires them fine.

    As to the Glocks (albeit with KKM barrels), I think itís an issue with the COAL perhaps combined with the shape of the BB bullets. My three 10mm Glocks and my 6.3Ē 10mm Dan WessonBruin all fire DoubleTap 200gr HC and Underwood 220gr and 200gr HC without anyfail ever. The UW 220gr HC leaves the barrel over 50 fps faster than the BB 220gr HC.

    Try the UW 220gr HC, it might work fine. Iíve chronoed many of them: I actually carry, in angry bear country, the solid-copperUW 140gr Extreme Penetrator. From tests Iíve seen, it penetrates about 70% or 80% as much as the 220gr HC, but does alot more damage along the way. It does not appear to deform in animals. YMMV.
    thanks for the comparison charts. have not seen the 140gr Extreme Penetrator, ( to be honest, have not looked, focused on BB) might look into those next time IM in Alaska Ammo.

    Been crazy busy past few days, tomorrow night gonna go to the range and see if the 190 grains BB work. Got to get regeared for Moose hunt next weekend, and want my glock working right

  15. #35
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    I actually carry, in angry bear country, the solid-copperUW 140gr Extreme Penetrator. From tests Iíve seen, it penetrates about 70% or 80% as much as the 220gr HC, but does alot more damage along the way. It does not appear to deform in animals. YMMV.[/QUOTE]

    I want whatever has a better chance of penetrating through skull, breast plate, or spine in 10mm. Who cares about soft tissue penetration and damage, the bear would still have plenty of time to kill you before it knew it was dead..... my .02 cents. For deer hunting in black bear coutry sure..

  16. #36
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    I have a KKM barrel and a 22# spring in my G20 and shoot Underwood ammo. I had the same problem, but it seemed to help when I swapped out the magazine springs for the +10% from Wolff.

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