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Thread: My winter turned spring/summer to do list is almost done.

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    Member KantishnaCabin's Avatar
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    Default My winter turned spring/summer to do list is almost done.

    So, on a previous thread I discussed my plans on updating my boat over winter. As happens, life got in the way and my wife made me act like a responsible grown-up. Sort of, I still got most of the list accomplished but some of it was adjusted.

    The new stomp grate is in and works perfectly! I used it this weekend running on Portage River chasing Silvers, I went up a side slough and ingested some grass when putting out.

    Stomp Grate.jpg

    Also, I completely rebuilt my jet this summer. I chose to upgrade to an overlap 1st stage and rebuild the 2nd-3rd. All new gaskets on the pump housing. New bushings on all the hinge points and a new reverse bucket because the old on was too wallowed out. And I had to change 1 of my cutlass bearings. That surprised me a little, because they were both new last year. So, its a good idea to check your cutlasses annually if you are running in silty water.
    IMG_0470.jpg

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    Member KantishnaCabin's Avatar
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    Overlap.jpg

    The new overlap is a nice improvement but I may end up changing my 2nd or third stage this winter. I'll see how this goes on the moose hunt. I went from a 5/2/2 combo to a 1/2/2. I read on another forum that I may want to consider a 1/2/4 combo but I'm a little worried my carbed 5.7 would be a little under powered for that combo.

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    Member KantishnaCabin's Avatar
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    I also decided not to do the EFI conversion and instead rebuild/replace my carburetor. The EFI conversions all started at $1,300 and went up from there. I found a new refurbished carb direct from Holley for $336. I decided to also get a rebuild kit for my old carb and keep it as a spare.

    I just installed the new carb last week and I'm in the process of tuning it for my boat. The problem with buying a stock carb is they are set up as vanilla as possible to reach the broadest engine combinations.

    The new carb needs the main jets increased a little because I lost some of my mid-range cruising power. The old carb had #65 main jets and the new one came with #63's. I liked the mid range performance of the #65 jets but the was a bit of a flat spot in the beginning of a hard acceleration. I purchased #64's and #66's just in case and plan to play around with it this weekend.

    I definitely like the new power valve that came with this set up though, the old one was a 5 and the new one is supposed to be a 2.5. The new one opens up at about 3900-4000 rpm and adds 2-300 rpm and 6-7mph. It was a real help jumping on step, I thought anyway. I don't remember the old one opening like that before.

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    IMG_0482.jpg

    This little shop of horrors is what I changed out. I was really surprised at how much dirt got in there in one year. I cleaned this old carb last year before my moose trip but didn't rebuild it. The sand in my engine compartment came from the time I got stuck on a sandbar exploring new areas. I filled up my sand trap and exhaust manifolds with sand and had to blow it all out on the bank of the river. I guess I didn't clean enough, I didn't think to open the flame arrestor and check. New box has been added to the checklist.

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    So, on the check ride after changing the jets in the carb, I noticed water leaking from my thrust bearing. A slow dribble, but alarming to say the least. I spent last weekend out in the Sound and ran the boat pretty hard for 6-7hrs. I have to say I like the #65 jets the best and I'm really happy with how the carb turned out. But that small leak started to bug me.

    It turns out that there is a weep hole on the bottom of the thrust bearing and when your seal begins to fail you will see water leaking out of it. I probably should have noticed that earlier, I've notice a marked increase of water in the bilge when I pull the plug. I assumed it was coming in through and old base gasket on the pump intake or maybe an old spring gasket. My boat is a 1994 and I just assumed it was getting old and leaky. I plan on replacing both of those this winter.

    Back to the thrust bearing. The seal is on the water side of the thrust bearing and is in front of your first stage impeller. So basically you have to disassemble the pump to get to it and replace it. Honestly, the hardest part is wrestling with the old cotter pin. I tried taking the advise of and old mechanic and cutting the head off the cotter pin with a long chisel. (I'm fairly certain the old guy messed up several attempts before he perfected his method. Because that is what I decided to do.) Hint, if you are going to use a chisel to cut the cotter pin make sure you chisel is ground and sharpend to a straight taper. I purchased an off the shelf Home Depot chisel for metal (all I had at home were wood chisels) and it had a double taper. The result was not a clean cut of the cotter pin head. I ended up with a bur end on the cotter that was nearly my doom. Essentially It became a two man job, myself with a set of vise grips on the remaining cotter pigtail and my son using the smallest prybar I had through the pump access/inspection plate on top of the pump. It took a little work but we were able to wiggle the remaining cotter out of the whole.

    Replacing the seal is pretty straight forward from there. However the seal is held in place by a spring and plate that is locked in by the cotter pin. It's pretty tricky getting the pin back in the hole at the same time you are trying to compress the spring. I wrestled with it for a few minutes until I went in to problem solving scrounge mode. I happened to have an old fire extinguisher wall bracket laying in my tool room. As it turns out the U clip at the top of the bracket that holds the neck of a fire extinguisher is the perfect size to wrap around the drive shaft. I was then able to compress the spring by sliding the bracket along the driveshaft and using long nosed vice grips insert the cotter.

    I'm glad that my first attempt at replacing this seal was in my driveway and not laying in the mud on the river bank. But now that I've done it, I'm sure I can do it again. And this time i'm pretty sure I can do it faster than the 7-8hrs it took me.

    If you are considering rebuilding your pump, consider replacing your thrust bearing seal when you have the pump apart anyways. It's a $30 part and in the over-all cost of a pump rebuild its nothing. I basically had to tear down my whole pump twice this year. On the plus side, I am really good at taking it apart and putting it back together again.

  6. #6

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    KantishnaCabin

    How did you like the 1-2-2 combo on your moose hunt. I've used that combination for a long time and have been happy with it. We have the same engine and similar boats.

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    I installed it a few weeks ago and Iíve had the opportunity to test it out several times on the Big Su, 20 Mile, Portage Creek and out in the Sound. The camping trip in the Sound and one trip on the Big Su was with a pretty good load. Still not as much as I expect to haul in and out of moose camp though.

    We we leave for moose camp on the 13th. Still watching the weather to see where we end up. If it cools off as I hope it will we will probably go to our usual place. If it doesnít we are likely to push way up river trying to gain elevation. Iím happy with the combo so far but his will be the big test.

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    So, the boat performed exceptionally well this trip. I really like the 1-2-2 combo on the impellers. Wow, what a difference.
    IMG_0529.jpgIMG_0508.jpg

    On the way in to moose camp we were loaded up pretty good. 200gal of gas on board, 2 guys and our camp gear. Well over 3000# worth of crap and no problem at all getting up on step. It did even better in the shallow water on the Toklat.

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    Except of course when you just run out of water exploring.
    IMG_0511.jpg

    That was a long ways up the Toklat. Funny, I was just thinking I was pushing my luck and should turn around when we ground out. Took about 2 hrs to get to a deep enough channel and I had to use the chainsaw to clear some deadfalls before I could get out. On a side note, my $69 portable 2000# winch from amazon was the bees knees. Only drawback was the length of cable, 30ft on the winch. But, a couple of snatch blocks and a rope come-along to keep tension on the line while resetting the winch did the trick.

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