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Thread: Any GC owners have defrosters plumbed in from their Espar?

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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    Default Any GC owners have defrosters plumbed in from their Espar?

    Just racking my brain trying to figure out how to plumb in some windshield defrosters without creating an eyesore. D4 is located on port side mid cabin. Pictures would be awesome if you have tackled this issue.
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ebbtide View Post
    Just racking my brain trying to figure out how to plumb in some windshield defrosters without creating an eyesore. D4 is located on port side mid cabin. Pictures would be awesome if you have tackled this issue.
    If you dig through pics on my fb bk marine site I believe there are some on it. Regardless, theres lots of "solutions" that might give you an idea.
    Bk


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    I couldn't figure out anything that was clean looking, so I added two fans blowing on the front windows. Our D4 is on the starboard side with no ducting at all.

    Bill C.

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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    BK
    I went through all your public pictures. Seen a GC picture that you added ducting and vents to under the dinette. Did not see any defrosters though. The problem is there is no place to conceal the ducting. You could put vents in the overhead easy enough. getting the ducting there would not be pretty.

    Bill
    I went with fans too but a little heat up there would really help. My d4 came the same way. I ducted and split the output of the d4 and directed 1 output to a vent I installed in the v birth.The other just blows out at the feet of the front passenger.
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    drop of dish soap rubbed on window and no more fog ! try it in your bathroom.

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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    OK I'm game. So I am going to put some dish soap on a rag and rub it into the inside of the window?
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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    I don't have a GC but I am using a defroster bar on my boat that works well. Something like this might be built that looks pretty good and would work.defrostbar.jpgdefrostbar2.jpg

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    My GC has the Espar output split between the floor in the center of the cabin and the cuddy. How I keep moisture off the windows is by opening the windows and allowing more ventilation. Sometimes in rough weather it means opening the window on the down wind side and shutting the window on the side taking wind and spray. The Espar pumps plenty of heat even with allowing for some fresh air coming in the window. Never really had a problem with too much moisture on the windows and this is season #8 on my boat. I also leave the window in the head open all the time except for really nasty weather.

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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    PB
    I tried the dish soap idea. I put a couple drops on a paper towel and rubbed it into he middle window In the front of the boat. Woke up the next morning and all 3 windows were fogged equally. Figured I probably did so something wrong.

    Yanert
    That is the best idea I have seen so far. At least the ducting would be in the v berth and out of sight. Did you just run ducting up the corner in the v berth?

    Capt. Ron,
    Mine is also setup that way. I do all the same stuff except I leave the door cracked instead of the bathroom window. The problem usually occurs more early and late season (lower temps) in really rainy weather with 3 or 4 people on board and a lot of rainy wet gear coming in and out of the cabin. The windows will eventually clear after they have been squeegeed a few times and the heat and the fan has run awhile.
    We don't usually sleep with the heat on in the boat so it would be nice to clear the windshield in the morning when we get up and turn on the heat on anchor before running.
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Why not leave the heater on and avoid these problems in the first place?
    I don't understand why you shut it off at night?
    Bk
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  11. #11

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    Ebbtide

    Here are pics of how I ran the cuddy side ducting for the defroster bar. Since these pics were taken I've increased the size of the holes in the defroster bar from 1/4" the 3/8".

    heater ducting.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    BK,
    That is probably an option now. Last year I went through my diesel tank install and fixed the pump angle and vent plumbing as well as put on an actual thermostat instead of the little dial. Works most of the time now. Still having issues with the heater coming back on when it has completely cycled off as the temp drops.
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    Yanert,
    Trims out petty good with the cover on. Did you make the bar? How well does it work as compared with a car defroster and do you have any other outlets heater outlets? Are you heating with an espar d4 or equivalent? I appoligize for all the questions just trying to figure out if there is enough flow to run a bar and another vent.
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ebbtide View Post
    BK,
    That is probably an option now. Last year I went through my diesel tank install and fixed the pump angle and vent plumbing as well as put on an actual thermostat instead of the little dial. Works most of the time now. Still having issues with the heater coming back on when it has completely cycled off as the temp drops.
    I have this issue with my Planar too. It gets stuck in ventilation mode and never goes back to heat like its supposed to.

  15. #15

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    Ebbtide
    In one of the posted images you can just make out a round adjustable heat vent from the D4 in the cuddy below the cover for the defroster bar ducting. There is also an adjustable heat vent under the dinette table and one in the head that blows hot air on the toilet seat. I have a full canvas back over a 7x8' rear deck, open the cabin door with the Espar turned on and the canvas buttoned up and you can sit out there and enjoy a toddy in warm dry comfort on a cool rainy day. There is also a partial drop curtain under the roof overhang, open the head door 90 degrees and there is a heated shower area, as the head is part of the self draining rear deck. I partially close the cuddy vent and head vent as I like sleeping in a cooler space and the head is a small area. There is plenty of heat from the D4, if your concerned you could go with a D5. If they had been available I would have gone with a heater from BK. There is a 5gal kerosene tank in a compartment in the side of the rear deck behind the head, the pump and air intake are also out there, so I don't hear the clicking from the pump or the suction noise from the air intake. I leave the heater running whenever it is cool or cold and have to turn it back on after 8 or so hours of running. I've been very happy with this heating system as well as the defroster bar. I had Greatland make the heat bar, and ducting cover, I took in cardboard patterns and mock ups, I did the the install. I use a fan mounted center top by the front windows to help manage air flow as there is no directional adjustment on the heat bar.
    dinette duct.jpg

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    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akfunhog View Post
    I have this issue with my Planar too. It gets stuck in ventilation mode and never goes back to heat like its supposed to.
    He is having issues with a an Espar, not Planar I believe.....
    Ak funhog, Check your temp setting, it might be because it's reached its desired temp and won't call for flame refire till it falls below that desired threshold so it idles till then. Bump up your thermostat a bit and she will restart the fuel pump, fire off and crank out heat till it warms up to the set temp, then idle down again and shuts off the fuel pump. Call with any Q's, I'm here to help!

    Either brand heater in that size will keep your GC warm, no problem. You should have 4 vents in your boat Ebbtide and the ducting should be 3" and/or 4" to move lots of warm air. Typically 2 on the dash, 1 in the berth, and 1 on the floor of the cabin.
    I have crawled all over Yanerts boat every spring, his boat is a work of art and full of ingenious ideas. It's really pretty cool all the stuff he has done to her.
    my .02c.
    Bk
    BK Marine Services 232-6399
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  17. #17

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    BK
    My partner disagrees with you on the number of vents on the boat. I thinks she would have mutinied by now without the heated head.

    Another thing... I've run into some really hot still days in PWS the past 3-4 years. The cabin fan going and the heater in ventilation mode and it is way more comfortable.

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    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Yanert,
    Ya got me there, a warm seat has been ducted on many boats in our shop. lol!


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    Quote Originally Posted by bkmail View Post
    He is having issues with a an Espar, not Planar I believe.....
    Ak funhog, Check your temp setting, it might be because it's reached its desired temp and won't call for flame refire till it falls below that desired threshold so it idles till then. Bump up your thermostat a bit and she will restart the fuel pump, fire off and crank out heat till it warms up to the set temp, then idle down again and shuts off the fuel pump. Call with any Q's, I'm here to help!

    Either brand heater in that size will keep your GC warm, no problem. You should have 4 vents in your boat Ebbtide and the ducting should be 3" and/or 4" to move lots of warm air. Typically 2 on the dash, 1 in the berth, and 1 on the floor of the cabin.
    I have crawled all over Yanerts boat every spring, his boat is a work of art and full of ingenious ideas. It's really pretty cool all the stuff he has done to her.
    my .02c.
    Bk
    Yup I saw he was having issues with an Espar. I just thought it was strange I was having the same problem. I definitely tried upping the temp to like 30 but could never get it to cycle back to heat. I had to turn it off, then re-fire it.

    Not one issue with it this week though so....who knows. Love my Planar. The wifey reeeeeally loves it.

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    Member Ebbtide's Avatar
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    Just to leave no stone unturned, has anyone tried the electrical defrosters, either 12v or 110. I have been looking at them online and reading reviews and they seem to either require to much power 500-1500volts each (probably need more then one) or output is insufficient. Anyone have any first hand experience with them?
    "Ebbtide" 27 X 9 GlacierCraft
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