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Thread: Searunner performance issues

  1. #41

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    Not when comparing my stainless to aluminum props. I can get 5900 rpms with full fuel and 2 in the boat running the 19" aluminum props. When running the 17" stainless props I get 5400-5500. Aluminum blades flex quite a bit and prop diameter might be a little bit different.
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  2. #42
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
    Not when comparing my stainless to aluminum props. I can get 5900 rpms with full fuel and 2 in the boat running the 19" aluminum props. When running the 17" stainless props I get 5400-5500. Aluminum blades flex quite a bit and prop diameter might be a little bit different.
    Blade design and cupping also plays a part in how fast that prop will turn. I tend to think that cupping has more to do with it than a lot of folks think.


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  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    Blade design and cupping also plays a part in how fast that prop will turn. I tend to think that cupping has more to do with it than a lot of folks think.


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    Iím sure youíre right on that, the prop shop I use down here is pretty awesome, I can probably have them tweak the stainless props to get a few more rpms out of them. Iíll tackle that in the fall for winter charter duty.



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  4. #44
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    What about foam in the newer Hewes? Anyone have issues with wet foam in any Hewes in the 2015 and up models? I remember them doing some modifications to help get the water back to the bilge a while back.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    Blade design and cupping also plays a part in how fast that prop will turn. I tend to think that cupping has more to do with it than a lot of folks think.


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    Sure does!!!
    Found that out the hard way. Got a Hi-5 stainless double cupped prop for my boat and it was a little low on RPM so had my prop guy back East work on it. He said he too out one of the cups. It now has too little cup and over revs so I will need to have some cup put back in.
    Wish he had just taken out 1/2 of the cupping instead.
    Would probably be mint then.

  6. #46

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    if there is even the slightest suspicion that the foam wet, check that out first. buying more props and bigger engines is barking up the wrong tree.
    i think foaming boats is wrong for a variety of reasons.

  7. #47

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    The foam issue is a certainty in these boats especially the Hewes. I have extensive experience with my boat and others I've worked on. My boat lightened up enough to raise the waterline by almost 2". It's a bit of a project but well worth the effort and it will let you get intimate with your boat and how it's built. I ended up fixing some factory welding issues, stiffening the hull at stress points, moved my fuel tank forward with also gave me a huge in deck fish box. I have friends with 4 Hewes and they've all gone with bigger motors with no appreciable results except for 2 that have ditched the wet foam. There just is no way that you can spray expanding foam directly into an aluminum hull and not have water and condensation issues. It's a good winter project and enlightening into the guts of the boat.
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  8. #48
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    Just a update. I know it is a old post by now but Incase anyone is reading having a similar issue.

    Because the the boat was used I figured the previous owner spent time setting it up. That was my first mistake.

    I did a tuneup on the engine - plugs, fuel filters, oil, injectors, etc. that helped a a little.

    i then lifted the outboard up a mounting hole. Big difference. I picked up about 13 mph and 1.6 GPM better. I’m still a little low on the rpm scale so I ordered a new prop and am going to try that out this weekend.

    I want ant to pull my decking to check the foam but am afraid what I might find. The plywood is waterlogged and swollen so I can only imagine what the foam looks like. Soon.

    Ill repost about the prop change in a week or so.

  9. #49
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update! At what level was the motor sitting before and where is it now? Usually dealers recommend the cav plate be 1Ē below boat bottom.


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    It was at the lowest setting. I moved it up one hole. It is now in the position that all of Yamaha performance bulletins show.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Javaboy View Post
    It was at the lowest setting. I moved it up one hole. It is now in the position that all of Yamaha performance bulletins show.
    I promise you will see bigger improvements once you pull the floor and remove the waterlogged foam.


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  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Javaboy View Post
    Just a update. I know it is a old post by now but Incase anyone is reading having a similar issue.

    Because the the boat was used I figured the previous owner spent time setting it up. That was my first mistake.

    I did a tuneup on the engine - plugs, fuel filters, oil, injectors, etc. that helped a a little.

    i then lifted the outboard up a mounting hole. Big difference. I picked up about 13 mph and 1.6 GPM better. I’m still a little low on the rpm scale so I ordered a new prop and am going to try that out this weekend.

    I want ant to pull my decking to check the foam but am afraid what I might find. The plywood is waterlogged and swollen so I can only imagine what the foam looks like. Soon.

    Ill repost about the prop change in a week or so.
    I would pull the floor. If the plywood is soaked then the foam probably is too. I found wet foam in my older SeaSport and had to scrape it all out. Even with a heater in there, it never dried out.

    Hillary moved to NY and I moved out.


  13. #53
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    I have a very strong opinion about Hewescraft.

    I had a 20í Searunner. Took it in lieu of payment on an invoice. Couldnít figure out why the owner had installed 2 very large bilge pumps. Then I put it in the water.

    Long story short, it had a 12Ē split under the keel reinforcing angle they weld on. Major pain to fix. All sorts of bad welding. Everything visible was beautiful, everything below decks was like it was done in high school Ag shop. I spent the better part of a winter working on that boat. Then my buddy totally rewired it to marine standards. I subsequently sold that thing with full disclosure.

    I cannot believe folks pay real money for those boats. They might be fine down there in Colville on the big river but they are not an Alaska boat.

    I donít know, maybe theyíre better now. I sure hope so.

  14. #54
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    Because i have the opportunity to crawl in and around lots of Hewescrafts of various vintages, I can tell you they are stepping up their game. The newer ones are better fit and finish.
    That said, Id buy a Raider first. They are really nice boats and John has turned the company around. Very impressive ride!
    Bk


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  15. #55
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    I agree. Iíve climbed around several Raider boats and they are built really well. Nice clean welds. Great layout and plenty of usable space.


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  16. #56

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    I've had my 24' Alaskan for almost 7 years. I'm on my 4th pair of motors and I doubt there's another Hewescraft in existence with more hours on the water than mine; the entire time I've had it it's been used commercially year round for summer water taxi use and winter King trips. Mine is a 2000 year model and they are now nicer and more refined but I love the boat and I've had it completely apart after a fire and took the time to correct the factory issues such as ditching all the wet foam and fixing all the welding issues.
    We gusseted all the factory deck supports and stringer junctions, built a new fuel tank and moved it forward which gave me a below deck fishbox.
    Yep there are definitive issues with all Hewescrafts that need to be addressed, however they are a decent riding boat and mine has gone above and beyond earning it's keep day in day out, 7 years running.
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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
    I've had my 24' Alaskan for almost 7 years. I'm on my 4th pair of motors and I doubt there's another Hewescraft in existence with more hours on the water than mine; the entire time I've had it it's been used commercially year round for summer water taxi use and winter King trips. Mine is a 2000 year model and they are now nicer and more refined but I love the boat and I've had it completely apart after a fire and took the time to correct the factory issues such as ditching all the wet foam and fixing all the welding issues.
    We gusseted all the factory deck supports and stringer junctions, built a new fuel tank and moved it forward which gave me a below deck fishbox.
    Yep there are definitive issues with all Hewescrafts that need to be addressed, however they are a decent riding boat and mine has gone above and beyond earning it's keep day in day out, 7 years running.
    A new set of motors every two years?



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  18. #58

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    Hoose, I bought a couple of used pairs along the way; sprung for brand new power last month. Was averaging 1800 hrs a year. Happy with the 115's but the boat originally came with F-100's and they were awesome motors, light, easy to work on, would spin 21" pitch stainless props (all the 115's I've had like the 19" pitch better) and just about the same performance as my new motors. Sold the 3 I had with 5000 hrs on em to someone on the Yukon and they're still doing commercial duty.
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