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Thread: Searunner performance issues

  1. #21
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    My numbers...22 Searunner HT/ET, 200hp Yamaha Inline-4, 14 3/8 x 15 Stainless Michigan prop. 3/4 fuel, gear and 2 people:

    Cruise 4400rpm @ 27kts
    WOT 5600rpm @ 34kts

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Javaboy View Post
    I bought a Searunner 220 hardtop extended transom last summer. It has a Yamaha 150 with a stainless 14 1/4x 17 stainless solas prop. I am a little disappointed with the overall performance. Unfortantly I donít remember the exact numbers but I seem to be about 1000 rpms under max and only able to do about 28 mph wot. Here is what I am thinking:

    1. Over propped. Change prop to a 15Ē pitch?
    2. Engine is mounted on the lowest hole. It might be to low. Raise it up?
    3. Foam water logged? I am taking the boat (and trailer) to get weighed but it is normally just my wife and me and a dog Not that much gear. So even if waterlogged should still have better performance.
    4. Engine problems. Compression or fuel issue. Engine runs and starts great but canít really rule it out.

    what do you guys think?
    When I re-powered my Sea Runner from a 115 to a Yammie 200 in-line 4 they threw the customary 17Ē prop on it and I was also under powered, losing about 800-1000 rpmís. Switching to a 15Ē resulted in a gain of about 800 rpmís and much better hole shot. What helped just as much though was removing all of the under-deck saturated foam. Donít know the year of your boat but thatís the achilles heal of those Hewescraft. Youíll want to do that at some point. While 150 isnít going to scream it should be enough.


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  3. #23
    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    I had an OceanPro 220 with a Yamaha F150, and the best prop for me was the cheap black aluminum Yamaha prop in a 16p ($130 maybe). I also put on the Doel Fin and run those on all my boats. The 16p gave me 5900 rpm lightly loaded, and the Doel fin really helps you stay on step at slow speeds. The F150 isn't a speed demon on 220 Hewescrafts. But for those 22' boats it is the economy champ. If you really want stainless the Yamaha Reliance prop ($750 maybe) line was designed for the F150's power curve. I ran aluminum because I beached my boat every weekend. The Reliance is more prop than the black aluminum so maybe the 15p.

    Sobie2

  4. #24
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    In my exp the fins work on underpowered boats. On boats with good horsepower they are a detriment to speed and fuel economy.


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  5. #25

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    I would advise against drilling your cavitation plate to mount a planing fin. My experience with Solas propellers is that they tend to have fairly aggressive cupping, which can make them act like higher pitch propellers. I am guessing that boat was originally fitted with a 17 pitch Yamaha black stainless steel prop which is a cleaver style with no cupping. Someone probably replaced it with another ¬ď17 pitch¬Ē prop not realizing going to Solas¬ís aggressive cupping would drastically change things. Pitch is only one factor, and you need to understand how it relates to diameter, cupping, and rake. For starters, I would run a straight edge down the keel of your boat and trim the motor to where your cavitation plate is parallel with the straight edge. This will be your neutral trim setting. A good starting point for mounting height on a motor is to have the cavition plate even with the keel. Motor height has to be adjusted to the propeller. High rake props, props with more cupping, and 4+ blade propellers can ride higher than props with little or no rake and little or no cupping. How you load your boat is also important. It is common for a lot of people to put most of the weight in the back. Look at how your boat floats in the water, what it does when it is planing, and how it rides. This will determine if you want a stern lifting or bow lifting propeller. A four blade low rake prop should lift the stern where a 3 blade high rake prop will lift the bow. Also determine what you want to achieve most between acceleration, top speed, or mid range efficiency. A three blade will offer higher top speed, a four blade should hold you on plane slower and offer better mid range efficiency at the cost of a few MPH on the top end. Diameter also impacts RPM as when everything else is equal a smaller prop will slip more and rev higher. In short, check your motor height, trim angle, and boat load, then determine if you need a stern lifting or bow lifting prop, and what your priorities are between speed and efficiency. I believe you are currently overpropped. If it were my boat, I would be looking at a low rake, four blade prop to hold plane at lower speed and for increased efficiency. With the right pitch and motor height I am guessing it would still net a higher top end then you are getting now.

  6. #26
    Member 4merguide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    ....On boats with good horsepower they are a detriment to speed and fuel economy.
    How so?....as it would seem that keeping any boat on step longer at slower speeds would help in both ways? Just curious really, as I would imagine there are many that do believe in them as well as those that don't? I wonder what the overall consensus is about fins?
    Sheep hunting...... the pain goes away, but the stupidity remains...!!!

  7. #27
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    [QUOTE=4merguide;1630305]How so?....as it would seem that keeping any boat on step longer at slower speeds would help in both ways? Just curious really, as I would imagine there are many that do believe in them as well as those that don't? I wonder what the overall consensus is about fins?

    I think because they add drag. I wouldn't think it would be all that noticeable on larger rigs. I've only had them on 16-18 ft lunds with 30-50hp outboards and haven't noticed any appreciable difference in top speed. I have noticed a difference in allowing to plane at lower speeds/rpm. I'm a big fan of four bladed props as well for lower or marginally powered rigs. I used a 10x14 mercury spitfire vs a 10x15 black max and only lost 1-2 mph top end but gained alot of hole shot and noticed it cavitated less on cornering and when trimmed up.

  8. #28
    Member theultrarider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    In my exp the fins work on underpowered boats. On boats with good horsepower they are a detriment to speed and fuel economy.


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    I could not agree with this more. On an underpowered boat, yes they do help get you on step and help keep you there. If you however are running adequate hp they are just added drag and a hinderance. There is not a dealer in the state that doesn't try to package their stuff with too small of motors to try and make the prices more attractive. That is the real issue.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4merguide View Post
    How so?....as it would seem that keeping any boat on step longer at slower speeds would help in both ways? Just curious really, as I would imagine there are many that do believe in them as well as those that don't? I wonder what the overall consensus is about fins?
    I had a 2006 18í searunner with a 90hp yammie on it. It was doggie. I put a fin on it and I got about 10% better fuel economy and kept the same too end speed. I now have a 220 ocean pro with a 250 yamaha on it. It is not doggie. I put a fin on it hoping for better fuel economy and lost 10%. I also lost 300 rpm and 4mph off the top end. I sold it to a friend with a non-doggie boat/motor combo qnd he lost both fuel mileage and top end also. Just my experience with them.


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  10. #30

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    My boat (240 Alaskan) has over 6000 hrs on it, 3rd pair of outboards at this point (F-115's). Here's the skinny:
    1. I've tried LOTS of props, alum and ss, prop selection will make a world of diff.
    2. Wet foam is the BiGGEST issue with all Hewescrafts. I took it out of mine, currently advising a pal how to go about his wet foam. It's soaked all the way thru from the transom to the forward wheelhouse bulkhead. I'm betting 1000 lbs of it. Mine was far far less saturated and was in the neighborhood of 400 lbs. I'll post pics on that in a new thread. It's ludicrous to think weight on a boat won't affect rpms or performance. ALL the wet foam must come out including inside the boxed longitudinal stringers. Contact me on how to do all that plus a few other useful mods I've discovered.
    3. Dol-Fins; never seen em negatively affect performance in any way on many boats. My boat gets exactly the same rpms and speed with or without em. As my boat runs the summers with Heavy loads, they help with getting on step quickly.
    The friend mentioned in #2 repowered last summer from a 115 to a 200 thinking the bigger motor would be a big step up, not so much. I addressed the foam issue with him last year but like many Hewes owners didn't think that applied to him. We'll post performance results after he gets the boat all back together.
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  11. #31
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4merguide View Post
    How so?....as it would seem that keeping any boat on step longer at slower speeds would help in both ways? Just curious really, as I would imagine there are many that do believe in them as well as those that don't? I wonder what the overall consensus is about fins?
    I bought into the hype about those fins. I have more power than needed and while they kept me on step longer/slower, they took away MPG and a top end speed from my boat. They are for sale if anyone wants them..
    27' Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore Pilothouse PRIME TIME!
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  12. #32

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    He's the Hewes my buddy has, wet foam removal in progress. It'll be a world of difference when this boat is lightened up big time.


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  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
    My boat (240 Alaskan) has over 6000 hrs on it, 3rd pair of outboards at this point (F-115's). Here's the skinny:
    1. I've tried LOTS of props, alum and ss, prop selection will make a world of diff.
    2. Wet foam is the BiGGEST issue with all Hewescrafts. I took it out of mine, currently advising a pal how to go about his wet foam. It's soaked all the way thru from the transom to the forward wheelhouse bulkhead. I'm betting 1000 lbs of it. Mine was far far less saturated and was in the neighborhood of 400 lbs. I'll post pics on that in a new thread. It's ludicrous to think weight on a boat won't affect rpms or performance. ALL the wet foam must come out including inside the boxed longitudinal stringers. Contact me on how to do all that plus a few other useful mods I've discovered.
    3. Dol-Fins; never seen em negatively affect performance in any way on many boats. My boat gets exactly the same rpms and speed with or without em. As my boat runs the summers with Heavy loads, they help with getting on step quickly.
    The friend mentioned in #2 repowered last summer from a 115 to a 200 thinking the bigger motor would be a big step up, not so much. I addressed the foam issue with him last year but like many Hewes owners didn't think that applied to him. We'll post performance results after he gets the boat all back together.

    How many hours are you getting out of the F-115's?

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4whlr View Post
    How many hours are you getting out of the F-115's?
    Sold my first 3 motors with 5000 and 3000 hrs on the spare. All running amd I think now on the Yukon. The pair on the boat currently about 3800 And run better than the used 115ís I bought last year with supposedly 250 hrs.
    Gonna repower for taxes sometime this year and sell the 4.


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  15. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
    Sold my first 3 motors with 5000 and 3000 hrs on the spare.
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    I would be happy to get 3000 hours. So any tips on getting that many hours from an outboard?

  16. #36
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Perform all recommended manufacture maintenance on time and in accordance with manufacture recommended procedures. Don't run it too low of RPM all the time, nor run it WFO all the time. Including oil changes, lower unit gear oil changes, running a de-carb fuel cleaner (ie. Ring Free), - everything.

  17. #37
    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    Run it daily...

    Sobie2

  18. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sobie2 View Post
    Run it daily...

    If I lived in Juneau I might be able to do so, or if I was retired.

  19. #39

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    Ring free is good stuff. An occasional heavy dose of sea foam too.
    Routine maintenace and the correct props equally important. I run all winter with stainless 17" pitch props as we often have ice issues. Absolutely love em smooth as butter, instant boat response and impressive top end. They're a little steep on pitch but I don't run heavy taxi loads that time of year.
    Summer is alum 19" pitch. Not the same smoothness or top end but lots of beach landings (rocks, gravel) and they will run the boat with 7, full gear up front and on the deck and 3 kayaks up top at the rpm range it should be.
    See ya next winter stainless friends of mine!
    It's interesting the perception on hours; we think 3-5000 is a lot, I have friends that are getting over 7500 on Suzukis in Hawaii commercial fishing and have heard of Yamaha 115's approaching 10,000 on the interior rivers. Mine are runnin strong, use or burn no oil.
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  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jim View Post
    Ring free is good stuff. An occasional heavy dose of sea foam too.
    Routine maintenace and the correct props equally important. I run all winter with stainless 17" pitch props as we often have ice issues. Absolutely love em smooth as butter, instant boat response and impressive top end. They're a little steep on pitch but I don't run heavy taxi loads that time of year.
    Summer is alum 19" pitch. Not the same smoothness or top end but lots of beach landings (rocks, gravel) and they will run the boat with 7, full gear up front and on the deck and 3 kayaks up top at the rpm range it should be.
    See ya next winter stainless friends of mine!
    It's interesting the perception on hours; we think 3-5000 is a lot, I have friends that are getting over 7500 on Suzukis in Hawaii commercial fishing and have heard of Yamaha 115's approaching 10,000 on the interior rivers. Mine are runnin strong, use or burn no oil.
    Did you get those backwards, steeper pitch would lug the engine more with a load then a less aggressive pitch?

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