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Thread: Anti-Slip decks

  1. #1
    Member kaisersosei's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Anti-Slip decks

    Anyone have any ideas on making the fishing deck less slippery? I just bought a new boat and the plastic coated wood deck is just too slippery in my opinion especially when you have any amount of fish blood. I was thinking of diamond plate but is spendy and also slippery. I am also thinking of rhino lining spray, aluminum treads that you screw on or even maybe the cutting board material in 1/4 inch thickness. Just looking for opinions. I tried the best High Grit tape they sell in Lowes (very strong glue and aggressive grit) but it just fell off once the sea water got under it since the deck is not smooth like fiberglass. Any input would be helpful.

    Have taken the Wooldridge SS Pilothouse 23 out (Lani Kai) 6 times so far and loving it. Amazing economy from the gas used in my truck during towing to on-the water economy. Yami Twin 115, 46 WOT in flat calm, 32mph at 4200rpm (high cruise) and loving it. Now only if the deck can be made less slippery...

  2. #2
    Member Alaska Gray's Avatar
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    rhino line it. You can buy the stuff and do it yourself. No hard and will save some money
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  3. #3
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    I recently bought some herculiner (Roll-on bedliner) and did my floor in my river boat. It turned out great!

    Just make sure if you tape off any areas that you don't want this stuff on.....Once it's there, it's THERE!

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    Thumbs up Great Idea!

    I glued some outdoor carpet to my Wooldridge floor a few years back. It is starting to come loose. I think the spay/roll-on liner idea is a great one. I will be doing this come spring! Already making the list for parts and stuff to do for next season!

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I used Rustoleum Marine topsides with their antislip additive on my deck, and it is a fine no-slip surface. Likely the cheapest route, a quart at Lowes and the anti-slip is about $15, and enough to cover a deck and then a little. Just roll it on with a 6" short nap weenie roller. It does take a few days to dry, and about a week for full strength. I'd go battleship grey, as the white shows dirt way to easily.

  6. #6
    Member kaisersosei's Avatar
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    Default Where to buy?

    Where would I buy rhino lining trype materials? Schucks?

  7. #7
    New member fishnhuntr's Avatar
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    Default grip tape

    Have you seen that in Cabelas? Can buy it in a roll and just put it where you really need it, I would think it'd be better than the hardware store stuff since it is designed for marine applications, just another idea. luck

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    I recently re-did my jet boat floor. I used 3/4" oak plywood at lowes. Took a 40 grit sander to the top to scuff it up a bit. Then applied the Herculiner as per instructions. Very easy to work with and the end product looks very nice! I'll report back at the end of the season to let folks know how well it holds up.

    I spent about 300$ total. I have a lot of extra plywood so actual cost is less.

    I think this is the way to go if tou want something that is a that is a non slip surface and looks good. Folks in the lower 48 say it gets hot. We'll see how hot it gets in AK.
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  9. #9
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul H View Post
    I used Rustoleum Marine topsides with their antislip additive on my deck, and it is a fine no-slip surface. Likely the cheapest route, a quart at Lowes and the anti-slip is about $15, and enough to cover a deck and then a little. Just roll it on with a 6" short nap weenie roller. It does take a few days to dry, and about a week for full strength. I'd go battleship grey, as the white shows dirt way to easily.
    Did you add the non-slip in or broadcast it when wet? How long have you had in on your boat? Thanks
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
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  10. #10
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    I put rubber anti fatigue drainage floor mats on mine. Work great. The little rubber dots on the bottom are almost all rubbed off after 2 years (which is okay). I pull em when I wash it and put em back down. Cut them to fit the back deck and the front bow. also lined my gunnels with them so things don't go bump in the swales.

    Lowes has em. Mohawk black rectangular floor mats (C&P ain't workin).

  11. #11
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKStone View Post
    I recently re-did my jet boat floor. I used 3/4" oak plywood at lowes. Took a 40 grit sander to the top to scuff it up a bit. Then applied the Herculiner as per instructions. Very easy to work with and the end product looks very nice! I'll report back at the end of the season to let folks know how well it holds up.

    I spent about 300$ total. I have a lot of extra plywood so actual cost is less.

    I think this is the way to go if tou want something that is a that is a non slip surface and looks good. Folks in the lower 48 say it gets hot. We'll see how hot it gets in AK.
    Hate to break it to you, but most of that oak ply doesn't have exterior rated glue. It will be interesting to see if it holds up. Who knows, that bedliner may help it out.
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  12. #12
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    next time i do my deck i'm going to use one of these methods

    Philly Clad, American Safety products from Sherwin Williams, stuff is bulletproof.
    Philadelphia resins, philly clad was taken over by sherwinn Williams and can be ordered through local store, the product is now called American safety technologies, they have several grits and colors also, I think I used AST 175, light grey. comes in 1 gallon cans now with a wet catalyst as opposed to the old dry aggregate

    OR


    10/18/2013 Captain Larry post

    Here is a system that works very well. if you are on raw wood then you can substitute gelcote for Interlux deck paint. The key is the aerosol as it absorbers the color of the paint of gelcote.

    Aerosil works the best. Unlike play sand the aerosil absorbs the color of the gelcote. In doing so, no matter how hard you scrub or things drag it always stays in the color. The play sand wears through and you get those read-out marks and dark colored specks.

    Looking at your deck. I would re coat the entire surface. Here is my method:

    1- You will need two gallons of gelcote. One waxed the other no wax. You will use it all on what appears to be about a 10 X 10 cockpit sole.
    2. Sand it real good & wash it with acetone.
    3. Once done start with the no waxed gelcote and a good low nap roller.
    4. Mix the gelcote one quart at a time. You should have an assistant to mix for you.
    5. As you finish the 1st quart keep going with the second then the third until the entire deck is covered once.
    6. Each fresh quart requires a fresh roller and mixing container.
    7. Once done roll it a second time same way. The deck will be tackie which is good. So have plenty of throw away cotton white socks.
    8. Once the second coat is down you should see no read out and the color should look consistent. You want the wax coat to go on nicely as it will be only a one coat shot.
    9. Mix the Aerosil into the waxed gelcote a little at a time. Make sure you are well covered up as the aerosol goes air borne pretty easy. Keep mixing in the aersoil with no harder until you get the nice pasty consistency you need. Next with a full nap roller roll a small test section with no harder to make sure you have the non skid look you want.
    10. Once you do, then start rolling one quart and a time until covered.
    11. What is also key is that once you start rolling do not stop until all three coats are down. You will get the best adhesion putting the coats down quickly on the tackie non wax primer coats.

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    I have a plywood deck on my skiff and I made it very non skid by rolling out a coat of Interlux polyurethane and sprinkled it evenly with 18 grit silica sand. After it dried I used a shop vac to pick up the loose then rolled out two more coats to lock it solid. After 10 years it has held up very well but last month I repaired a few areas with West Systems epoxy thickened with 410 filler then sprinkled with silica. Once the epoxy was set I rolled the deck with a coat of polyurethane.

  14. #14

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    For those of you that have gone with aluminum over plywood I'm here to say that you can get a better surface than using tread plate by abrading regular flat sheet. 40 grit with an orbital sander does the trick and is renewable. Tread plate is not that great, especially over time; the tits get worn down and thus makes it even more slippery. I do not build skiffs anymore with tread plate decks...Fact is, bare plywood is one of the best non-skid surfaces except for the downstream problems. When I was a commercial fisherman, the plywood decks on my little jitney were praised by the crew. The other tread plate areas, not so much.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska Gray View Post
    rhino line it. You can buy the stuff and do it yourself. No hard and will save some money
    Please, just for me, get rid of that obtrusive gif. I've seen it too many times. Why do you have to do that?

  16. #16
    Member Alaska Gray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by copperlake View Post
    Please, just for me, get rid of that obtrusive gif. I've seen it too many times. Why do you have to do that?
    I wish I could tell you why. My age you tend to forget things..



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  17. #17
    Member Cap'n Ron's Avatar
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    Wear xtra tuff boots, still the best non-slip sole ever. Keeps you from slipping on docks, rocks, stepping in/out of tender etc

  18. #18
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    Wingwalk is not bad.

  19. #19

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    Heavy Weather Boats used a great product on our aluminum deck. It was reasonably priced and rolls on without a lot of prep and is available in Anchorage. He did rough up the deck with a wire brush first. I forget the exact name of the product, but stop by or call Dave and ask him.

  20. #20
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    Go to Reeves on Merrill Field and get some wing walk paint. Easy to apply and re-apply if it wears.

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