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Thread: Saturn Kaboat motor options?

  1. #61
    Member Amazer's Avatar
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    Yes, I am a little stern heavy but not a lot. With the Kaboat if I put to much weight up front and none in the middle at WOT the boat will cobra/ bend some in the middle. So I put weight in the middle to stop the cobra effect at WOT. At cruising speed I have no issues with weight. I have my floor at 10 PSI and I am to worried to put more pressure in it. I spread the load out the entire length and that works much better as long as I have enough load to do so.

    I read in one article online that someone was putting plywood under the pressure floor and that cured all cobra problems. If I just use a 8' length I think that will get me past the bending point. I am going to check that out this spring to see if that will cure my problems at WOT. I know some people have put a rowing frame on the Kaboat and that seem to be an answer too. If the plywood don't work (simple easy) then I will invest some time into the rowing frame.

  2. #62
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    I bought a 15' Kaboat from Brian Richardson at Alaska Raft Connection. Came loaded up with great features. I use a 6hp short shaft Yamaha outboard. With just me, fishing pole, pack, cooler, and gas tank I clocked myself going 13-14 mph up the Susitna River and 19-22mph going downstream! It's actually scary fast when your skipping across the water like that! I never had an issue with it porpoising. I am building a frame for it anyways. This is one of my favorite little boats😝🤗

    IMG_3807.jpg
    You will miss 100% of the shots you never take.

  3. #63
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    We're all frozen over in Montana so I have a few months before I head out again, hopefully with a 20 or 25. However, I bought the tiller extension and did a whole different floor that might help. I'm amazed at the difference in speed I had last summer depending on altitude. At a 4000 ft lake seemed OK. Went up to a 6500 lake and noticed a difference in a few MPH. However, never checked tube pressure so not very scientific.

    For my new floor, when time allows I'll take pics for feedback, criticism, hate mail and maybe might help some others but here goes for a written description that's perhaps too long:
    -I went to defender.com and bought "H" joint and side stringers for an Achilles raft, all plastic.
    -Bought 1/2" plywood and measured/sliced/diced four floor pieces. The front piece, narrowed obviously towards the front, ends about 18" or so back from the point of the bow under the tubes. Back three pieces seem to fit OK, front needs a bit of whittling to make it right, have a tight spot at the front.
    -Used a router to thin the edges to 3/8 minus to fit the H joints. Did a bad job, should have used a table saw and stood pieces on end on the fence.
    -Brought plywood to my pals awesome wood shop to have them sealed up.
    -Cut the H joint and side stringers to fit. Side stringers just keep the pieces from raising/lowering against each other, so I didn't run them the entire length of the floor, just about 1' on each side of the joints.
    -For holding the floor pieces together, so they don't drift apart, bear with me: Used 90deg edge brackets, like you're building a box, hammered/straightened out tabs at the end, so like a strap with a hump in the middle. Used fender washers counter sunk-ish on the bottom of the floor to reduce sharp edges on the fabric. Just nuts with lock washers on top as the inflated tubes don't touch the area. This all would have been easier if I had just used a rope loop like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PIIF54/ but why do things easy, clean, fast and inexpensive when you can get frustrated and spend more time and money and make it look like crap?
    -So...where the floor pieces come together at the H joint, each touching corner area has an expensive kluged rope loop. These are held together while in the boat with Night Ize Gear Ties, wicked strong for this application, thread through and twist and it's not going anywhere.
    -For the keel, again, bear with me. I used big-ish "Blue Jumbo Foam Noodles". These conveniently have a hole in the middle and a decent diameter. These noodles were cut to the length of each floor piece.
    -To hold the noodle/keel to each floor piece i slipped a piece of 3/4" PEX in each one, drilled a hole through the noodle/PEX, put some 1" webbing through same, duct taped the crap out of it, then added more duct tape, then more so the foam wouldn't rip with the webbing in it. Then ran the webbing up through a small hole in the wood floor and tied it off with various D rings/Tri-glides. So, each end of each keel piece is held tight to the floor piece.
    -For the front-most floor piece, wanting a tapered keel, I used the expedient of a bread knife to taper the Blue Jumbo Foam Noodle. Worked OK but isn't going to win any boat show ribbons.

    So, now each floor piece has a keel, they line up well, they're held tight to the floor.

    With the raft dis-flated just enough the floor pieces go in just like with any other raft, the H joint and side C channel pieces slip on (again, just like any other raft) and the Night Ize gear ties hold it all together well.

    I used the wood floor twice and really liked it vs. the air floor. I have absolutely no idea if it's speeding me up or slowing me down.

    when flipping the Kaboat on its side, the fabric seems pretty tight, again, like any other raft with an air or wood keel (had an ancient hyapalon raft with wood keel long ago).

    I liked how the floor is lower vs. the air floor, a lot. Like how i don't have to worry if it's going to get a pin leak. Obviously a foam cover over the air floor would have solved that, too. Excited to bring my dog along and see how he likes it without worrying about his talons/claws hurting the floor, just the tubes.

    Sacrificed some portability and setup speed for sure, but the four floor pieces can fit in any back seat, hatch or pickup bed.

    I also did a rowing frame, modded to Coleman coolers for seats that sit on the wood floor and have kayak/canoe seats strapped to them.

    Also modded a Harbor Freight cheap-azz trailer with a long tongue and carpeted bunks to just keep the raft assembled most of the time. I don't live in or near salt water so don't worry about corrosion like you all.

    Long explanation that will be helped with pictures in the future. Hopefully someone else will do a hard floor that's better so I can copy that. Can't wait to get it out on the water this spring!

  4. #64
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    Mt Al, your setup sounds like it could work for me. Look forward to seeing the pictures. Did you notice a significant increase in speed in putting in the floor?

  5. #65
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    Amazer. I didn't notice a significant increase in speed, but didn't do any direct comparisons like same lake, same number of people/weight, etc..

  6. #66
    Member AK DUCKMAN's Avatar
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    Forgot all about this thread, so what I found out with what I tried for motors on my 15 foot XL. 6 hp mud buddy with gear reduction big prop. I got right at 10 mph. With my 2 stroke 15 hp Johnson I was a little over 20 mph. As for load, me,wife, dog, cooler and the rowing frame, so well over 300lbs. Yes the frame helps, besides making rowing easyer. still working on that part of it. Wouldn't win any races with the mud motor but me alone and a little gear should be able to do what I need to. With the 15 it seemed a little scary. Mounted one of the seats from my jet boat on a old wheeler rack and attached it to the rowing frame in front for my wife to sit in, she didn't bat an eye, thought it was great. But being in back running the thing you sure as hell don't want to turn to fast. the fins on the bottom are a little to much. The gps said 21/22 mph but felt like 50. I also tried one of those hydrofoil things. It works great on my12 foot john with the 15, but the Kaboat didn't seem to like it much, seemed to want to porpoise even with the frame.It did the same thing in a buddy's inflatable. Took it off and problem went away. Gonna try putting in at Willow creek campground this summer and see how the mud motor pushes it up that section of the big su, willow,and little willow. So anyway that's what I found out hope it helps someone out. I should add with the frame and mud motor there is a little problem getting the prop out of the water because the tiller hits the back cross tube of the frame. I modified the back piece to drop down below the seat so I should be able to at least get it a little more out. Ran Tango lake this fall and that first shallow spot I had problems getting the prop high enough.Took off the back part of the frame and was able to get though with out too much problem boat was heavy camp gear,fire wood, etc.. Later.

  7. #67
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    Is there a Saturn dealer in Alaska?

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK Mauler View Post
    Is there a Saturn dealer in Alaska?
    Yup. Alaska Raft Connection. I think the owner has contributed on this site from time to time.

    http://www.alaskaraftconnection.com/index.htm

    Nat

  9. #69
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    I bought my Saturn Kaboat 15' Alaska Series SK470XL from Alpine Boats, LLC online last winter/spring. I paid just over $950 on sale but had to pay an addition $109 for shipping to Fairbanks, AK. I went the cheaper route but had to waite several months for the sale. I had a great experience dealing with Alpine but I was not in a hurry as I did the ordering over the winter months.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amazer View Post
    I bought my Saturn Kaboat 15' Alaska Series SK470XL from Alpine Boats, LLC online last winter/spring. I paid just over $950 on sale but had to pay an addition $109 for shipping to Fairbanks, AK. I went the cheaper route but had to waite several months for the sale. I had a great experience dealing with Alpine but I was not in a hurry as I did the ordering over the winter months.
    By the time it was done I think I was close to the same price. Long story short I ended up with two boats before I sold one. Kind of a pain. but Saturn fixed the problem to my liking.

  11. #71
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    AK DUCKMAN thanks for the update. I'm going to try the Swamp Runner 7 HP motor this spring with aknative1987. If I can get 10 mph average with that setup then I will most likely buy one. I want something to run small waters and the 6hp short shaft motor I have I keep hitting bottom to much. I am still learning to read the small waters. I figure I need two motors one for deeper rivers, streams and on for very shallow water.

    I need to look at a rowing frame or try a plywood bottom to help me with bending/ cobraing when I run WOT with my outboard. It might not be as much of an issue with the mudd motor. I have only seen one picture of the rowing frame set up on the Kaboat but hope to find more online. Thanks for the information on rear cross brace for the rowing frame and the interference with the mudd motor.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amazer View Post
    AK DUCKMAN thanks for the update. I'm going to try the Swamp Runner 7 HP motor this spring with aknative1987. If I can get 10 mph average with that setup then I will most likely buy one. I want something to run small waters and the 6hp short shaft motor I have I keep hitting bottom to much. I am still learning to read the small waters. I figure I need two motors one for deeper rivers, streams and on for very shallow water.

    I need to look at a rowing frame or try a plywood bottom to help me with bending/ cobraing when I run WOT with my outboard. It might not be as much of an issue with the mudd motor. I have only seen one picture of the rowing frame set up on the Kaboat but hope to find more online. Thanks for the information on rear cross brace for the rowing frame and the interference with the mudd motor.
    Which tail are you going with?

  13. #73
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    Yukon Cornelius, more than likely the Swamp Runner. I have read good thing about them as they seem to be the simplest set up. I have txt or emailed with a few people that have them for a few years and they are happy with them. I not looking for anything fancy. Good bang for the buck.

  14. #74
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    If anyone has built a rowing frame for the Kaboat I would love to see pictures. AK DUCKMAN brought up the problem with the mudd motor and a rear cross brace.

  15. #75

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    I also tried one of those hydrofoil things. It works great on my12 foot john with the 15, but the Kaboat didn't seem to like it much, seemed to want to porpoise even with the frame.It did the same thing in a buddy's inflatable. Took it off and problem went away.

    Hey AK Duckman, do you think using a Hydo-shield, which has a small foil, would do the same thing on my 9.8 4 cycle with the 15 XL?
    RandyS

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyS View Post
    I also tried one of those hydrofoil things. It works great on my12 foot john with the 15, but the Kaboat didn't seem to like it much, seemed to want to porpoise even with the frame.It did the same thing in a buddy's inflatable. Took it off and problem went away.

    Hey AK Duckman, do you think using a Hydo-shield, which has a small foil, would do the same thing on my 9.8 4 cycle with the 15 XL?
    .
    Not sure may be worth a try looking at the Hydo-Shield it curves up mine is just straight.

  17. #77

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    Thank you. I was about to order the Hydro-shield until I saw your post. I think I'll hold off to see if someone chimes in on their success with it on a Kaboat before I buy it.
    RandyS

  18. #78

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    I use the Hydo-shield on a Kaboat and love it have a frame also which greatly reduces porpoising.

  19. #79
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    [ATTACH=CONFIG]95233[/ATTAAttachment 95234CH] Lets see if the pictures come though

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK DUCKMAN View Post
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]95233[/ATTAAttachment 95234CH] Lets see if the pictures come though
    . so that didn't seem to come out to good. Trying this off my phone.

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