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Thread: Wood Arrow Finish

  1. #1
    Member LOCALAK907's Avatar
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    Default Wood Arrow Finish

    So I'm new to building my wood arrows from bare shafts. I'm at the stage where I'm needing to choose what stain and finish to use. I'm getting mixed information on waterborne acrylic polyurethane vs. lacquer. I'm using a dip tube. Any suggestions on what is a good choice I can get locally? I'm using fletchtite for fletching. Any info is greatly appreciated.


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  2. #2
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    I've had great luck using the Jay Massey mix of 1 part epoxy and 5 parts acetone. I doubt it will work in a dip tube but never tried it. I wiped it on, sand when dry and re-apply as many time as you like. I think I used to go 3-5 coats. It can be applied over stains

  3. #3
    Member cdubbin's Avatar
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    Epoxy is great but UV light breaks it down pretty quick....I'd look at using thinned spar varnish....
    " Gas boats are bad enough, autos are an invention of the devil, and airplanes are worse." ~Allen Hasselborg

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    Quote Originally Posted by cdubbin View Post
    Epoxy is great but UV light breaks it down pretty quick....I'd look at using thinned spar varnish....
    IIRC the 5 minute epoxy has been reported to break down but I never had a problem with any of them. I have some shafts that are ~18 years old and still holding up. I found one shaft that had been lost in the NM mntns while elk hunting, 2 years after I lost it, and it was fine

  5. #5

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    Chez, what are u gluing feathers/nocks with. Duco does ok for nocks but fletch tape seems to be a must for feathers.

    Where you the one up north a few yrs back hunting moose with a fella off the Jim? I believe one of the two was a pastor if memory serves.

    They hold up extremely well!

    That said i dont use it anymore. Painting cresting and gluing issues, or splitting the shaft up into 2 sections (no epoxy over csp/crest without a wb 'buffer' coat.


    I use profin mostly. Goes on like water easy to get and no acetone to mess with.

    It does burn in some targets unlike epoxy, and is not as weather proof but its easy and looks great and does my needs fine!

  6. #6

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    I’m a little late to the party but here’s my 2 cents. I start off with Watco danish oil to seal the grain from the inside, let them dry thoroughly for at least 3 days, then brush on about 5 thin coats of oil based spar urethane with a 1’ foam brush. Dip tube takes too long to dry. It’s labor intensive but you don’t waste half a can of urethane tripping on the floor either. Oil base paints work over or under the urethane and Duco cement holds tight to both. An occasional coat of car wax helps keep them from sticking in the 3d targets. I’ve had arrows hide under grass for several weeks and still be straight when I find them. Duco cement is getting harder to find. True Value in ER stills carries it. Contact cement also works but takes more attention.

  7. #7

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    If you haven't settled on finish yet I'll offer what I have used for years and 100s of shafts. After very light sanding 220 to 330 grit, wipe clean and rub on 3 coats of Helmsman spar urethane found anywhere. Follow can directions. Let dry several day to off gas and after another light wipe of fletch area with sandpaper use Duco. Have feather rot off discarted arrows rather than let go usually. Have used from up here to the tropics with good results.

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