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Thread: Anchor pulpit / capstan winch

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    Default Anchor pulpit / capstan winch

    I am getting ready to order a 2017 Hewescraft Ocean Pro. In my build sheet I planned on equipping it with an anchor pulpit with a capstan winch and large stainless steel roller. However, I am questioning whether this accessory is worth the $2,300 that they charge for it. I'd like to hear from all of you who have used this set-up and let me know what you think. The pros and the cons, and mainly if it is worth the money, or if I am better off saving the money and using another system. Thanks for your input!

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    Quote Originally Posted by thumper44 View Post
    I am getting ready to order a 2017 Hewescraft Ocean Pro. In my build sheet I planned on equipping it with an anchor pulpit with a capstan winch and large stainless steel roller. However, I am questioning whether this accessory is worth the $2,300 that they charge for it. I'd like to hear from all of you who have used this set-up and let me know what you think. The pros and the cons, and mainly if it is worth the money, or if I am better off saving the money and using another system. Thanks for your input!
    Before I bought my 260 Alaskan, I always pulled my anchor sung the bouy method. Now I have a capstan on the pulpit, and I love it. It's worth it to me!!

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    you could always set up the boat to haul your anchor & shrimp pots with a electra dyne pot hauler. Simple set up of fairlead rollers back to the pot hauler.
    anchor & fairleads.jpg

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    I sure like my drum winch. push the button.... anchor rolls in. Push the button...anchor rolls out. But it's not a inexpensive way to go.


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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    you could always set up the boat to haul your anchor & shrimp pots with a electra dyne pot hauler. Simple set up of fairlead rollers back to the pot hauler.
    anchor & fairleads.jpg
    Cool idea. Seems like that would scratch the whoo-dun-it outta that boat!

    We have a Powerwinch anchor winch and I feel pretty meh about it. It works, but it's a 2 man job. One to drive and run the winch, and one to knock down the line pine in the locker cause it jams the winch. Not a Hewescraft though so maybe their locker design is better, and I think most of the Hewescraft windlasses are the horizontal Anchorlift style. Have rebuilt the Powerwinch (minor, and due to abuse) once already, and after taking it apart and seeing the break mechanism, I always cleat off if sleeping or leaving the boat.

    Drum I think is the way to go but haven't seen one on a Hewes, and they are expensive and bulky. Anything electric is better than the bouy ring IMO. Bring On Another Thousand...

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Predator Control View Post
    I sure like my drum winch. push the button.... anchor rolls in. Push the button...anchor rolls out. But it's not a inexpensive way to go.


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    Nope. It's back in Fairbanks and all winterized. Someday when I'm retired it will get to stay in the water longer.

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    [QUOTE=smithtb;1555801]Cool idea. Seems like that would scratch the whoo-dun-it outta that boat!

    thats what the fairleads are for or just set the anchor from the side of the boat and use a riding line from the bow. I NEVER went on my bow to anchor the 29' i had here, no need to with the set up i had.

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    I have a hand crank drum on the bow that is a beast to use on its own. I now use my e-dyne puller mounted in back to pull the line and then re-spool onto the drum without the weight. It is still a 2 person, 2 step process. Can you explain how you used the riding line in your set up? Thanks for your time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKsix View Post
    I have a hand crank drum on the bow that is a beast to use on its own. I now use my e-dyne puller mounted in back to pull the line and then re-spool onto the drum without the weight. It is still a 2 person, 2 step process. Can you explain how you used the riding line in your set up? Thanks for your time.
    throw anchor overboard, let out whatever scope you'll use, cleat off anchor line & backup to set anchor, riding line is attached to bow cleat or samson post and runs down side of house back to hauler, take anchor line off cleat and tie riding line(rolling hitch works good) on to anchor line and drop overboard, boat drifts back till riding line come tight, tie off anchor line to cleat by hauler and your done. I could do it in less time than it took to type this.
    When it comes time to haul anchor just run boat up the line till riding line knot comes up untie and haul the anchor up. Might i suggest you run your anchor line/chain/anchor into a plastic tote or one of my rope totes to save you the time/hassle of winding it up on a reel.
    riding line diagram.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumper44 View Post
    I am getting ready to order a 2017 Hewescraft Ocean Pro. In my build sheet I planned on equipping it with an anchor pulpit with a capstan winch and large stainless steel roller. However, I am questioning whether this accessory is worth the $2,300 that they charge for it. I'd like to hear from all of you who have used this set-up and let me know what you think. The pros and the cons, and mainly if it is worth the money, or if I am better off saving the money and using another system. Thanks for your input!
    For that kind of money you could put a Lewmar profish 700 on the bow and a quality davit and pot puller on the stern. Sure you can multitask with a capstan for pot pulling and use your pot puller for lifting the anchor, but each approach will come with compromises. Spend the extra money to buy 8 plait anchor line; this is all contingent on having the room on the bow for an anchor locker with adequate drop.
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    I'm very interested in why you are having issues with the 3 good winches. Weird


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    Quote Originally Posted by breausaw View Post
    For that kind of money you could put a Lewmar profish 700 on the bow and a quality davit and pot puller on the stern. Sure you can multitask with a capstan for pot pulling and use your pot puller for lifting the anchor, but each approach will come with compromises. Spend the extra money to buy 8 plait anchor line; this is all contingent on having the room on the bow for an anchor locker with adequate drop.
    FWIW I wouldn't spend any money on installing a Lewmar profish 700, I have one and I absolutely hate it.

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  15. #15

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    [QUOTE=potbuilder;1555898]throw anchor overboard, let out whatever scope you'll use, cleat off anchor line & backup to set anchor, riding line is attached to bow cleat or samson post and runs down side of house back to hauler, take anchor line off cleat and tie riding line(rolling hitch works good) on to anchor line and drop overboard, boat drifts back till riding line come tight, tie off anchor line to cleat by hauler and your done. I could do it in less time than it took to type this.
    When it comes time to haul anchor just run boat up the line till riding line knot comes up untie and haul the anchor up. Might i suggest you run your anchor line/chain/anchor into a plastic tote or one of my rope totes to save you the time/hassle of winding it up on a reel.
    riding line diagram.jpg
    That's how I do mine...I use a sheet bend and do the retrieve sitting down into square 1.5 bushel laundry basket. Once my shrimp gear is deployed, I just nest those 2 baskets under the anchor one until they are needed again. it used to work flawlessly until I went to Osprey sinking line for shrimp and had to adjust my sheaves narrower. Now my 1/2" anchor line slips often. But that's a gear tweak I'll have to figure out. Very easy, fast way to pull an anchor.

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    [QUOTE=Garyak;1556357]
    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    throw anchor overboard, let out whatever scope you'll use, cleat off anchor line & backup to set anchor, riding line is attached to bow cleat or samson post and runs down side of house back to hauler, take anchor line off cleat and tie riding line(rolling hitch works good) on to anchor line and drop overboard, boat drifts back till riding line come tight, tie off anchor line to cleat by hauler and your done. I could do it in less time than it took to type this.
    When it comes time to haul anchor just run boat up the line till riding line knot comes up untie and haul the anchor up. Might i suggest you run your anchor line/chain/anchor into a plastic tote or one of my rope totes to save you the time/hassle of winding it up on a reel.
    riding line diagram.jpg
    That's how I do mine...I use a sheet bend and do the retrieve sitting down into square 1.5 bushel laundry basket. Once my shrimp gear is deployed, I just nest those 2 baskets under the anchor one until they are needed again. it used to work flawlessly until I went to Osprey sinking line for shrimp and had to adjust my sheaves narrower. Now my 1/2" anchor line slips often. But that's a gear tweak I'll have to figure out. Very easy, fast way to pull an anchor.
    Gary the shims come in different thicknesses you might have to try a couple different combo's to get it to haul both ropes. Try roughing up the plates where the 1/2" wants to run that might make it grab better. Wow your using a pretty heavy anchorline for that light boat i'd think 3/8" braid would be plenty. My stainless plates used to slip when there wasn't much tension on the rope.

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  17. #17

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    [QUOTE=potbuilder;1556388]
    Quote Originally Posted by Garyak View Post

    Gary the shims come in different thicknesses you might have to try a couple different combo's to get it to haul both ropes. Try roughing up the plates where the 1/2" wants to run that might make it grab better. Wow your using a pretty heavy anchorline for that light boat i'd think 3/8" braid would be plenty. My stainless plates used to slip when there wasn't much tension on the rope.
    Hi, Steve. I've roughed up the sheaves and tried several shim combos. What I have on there now seems to be the best compromise. Narrower...anchor line won't hold at all...wider, the osprey plugs so tight I've had to take the thing apart on the water to get it unstuck. 3/8 rode might be the ticket. Or, I could always lose the osprey and go back to my old 5/16 sinking where everything worked fine.

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    [QUOTE=Garyak;1556399]
    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post

    Hi, Steve. I've roughed up the sheaves and tried several shim combos. What I have on there now seems to be the best compromise. Narrower...anchor line won't hold at all...wider, the osprey plugs so tight I've had to take the thing apart on the water to get it unstuck. 3/8 rode might be the ticket. Or, I could always lose the osprey and go back to my old 5/16 sinking where everything worked fine.
    have you tried just loosing the bolts on the plates just a touch sometimes that helps tune it a bit. By the way i'm 90% sure i'll have some nice 1/2 & 3/8 braided anchor lines for next year. You also could add a capstan to the ED.ED with capstan.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    throw anchor overboard, let out whatever scope you'll use, cleat off anchor line & backup to set anchor, riding line is attached to bow cleat or samson post and runs down side of house back to hauler, take anchor line off cleat and tie riding line(rolling hitch works good) on to anchor line and drop overboard, boat drifts back till riding line come tight, tie off anchor line to cleat by hauler and your done. I could do it in less time than it took to type this.
    When it comes time to haul anchor just run boat up the line till riding line knot comes up untie and haul the anchor up. Might i suggest you run your anchor line/chain/anchor into a plastic tote or one of my rope totes to save you the time/hassle of winding it up on a reel.
    riding line diagram.jpg
    I have been thinking about this method but I have a locker on the bow to hold all the rope, so it would take an additional step...

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    Quote Originally Posted by hoose35 View Post
    FWIW I wouldn't spend any money on installing a Lewmar profish 700, I have one and I absolutely hate it.

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    I drop hook 3 or 5 times a day depending on the situation, only problems if encountered with the profish is the occasional wad preventing the line from going out or until I did the Lewmar Windlass Rope Guard and Control Arm Upgrade Kit.

    http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp...152&id=2842506

    The rope guard control arm upgrade prevents the line from jumping out of the Gipsy on deployment and pulls the chain splice through the Gipsy seamlessly.

    And when I went to 8-plait line I can drop and retrieve 500 ft of line + 40 ft of chain flawlessly. The 8-plait line is the key because it sluffs in the anchor locker and doesn't pile up.

    Lewmar makes a good windless, when properly installed with adequate drop in the anchor locker and proper line it should deliver great perfomance.

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