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Thread: War Horse Refresh 2016

  1. #1
    Member IceKing02's Avatar
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    Default War Horse Refresh 2016

    I was in need of a good project.

    The War Horse sat on the hard for all of 2015 while I readied myself for sheep hunting. At ten years and over 900hrs of engine time I wanted to see how it had fared internally as I observed a couple of areas of corrosion on the outside of the engine. Leaky deck latches still need corrected and the three times that I dumped a huge amount of seawater into the engine compartment convinced me that it needed inspection at the very least.
    Starting in March 2016 I began to work on the trailer. It was a rewarding project that makes towing a breeze and stopping even breezier. I'll save that story for another thread, however...

    I decided to pull out the engine of the War Horse and to break into it, inspect the accessories, and repair or replace whatever needed fixing. I was prepared for anything--from sandblasting and repainting to a full rebuild--and that is a good thing so far! The engine is a 2004 D6-310 Volvo Penta. It was mated to a DPH-A drive leg and 1.76:1 ratio with VP Duoprops (G5 or 6 pitch, I believe). As I acquired a good deal on a DPH-D in 1.63:1 ratio we'll see if I am over-propped or still good to hit 3500rpms at WOT once this project is complete. So, with the help of some good friends, it begins:
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    Default The Intercooler

    One of the first accessories that interested me was the intercooler/charge air cooler condition internally. This is where all of the hot, compressed air from the turbo goes to get cooled down and become charge air for the intake manifold. No good resources were to be found on inspection intervals or servicing this Volvo Penta product so we SWAG-ged it.
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    Member IceKing02's Avatar
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    The condition of the end-caps left something to be desired:
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    Default

    I'm not at the shop but by the pics it doesn't look bad at all. A little left over old zinc and just a bit of goo in the tubes are no big deal. At 900 hours your still 100 hours away from normal maintenance on the aftercooler & heat exchanger. Guys back east set up a pump and clean them up without removing from the block they use rydlyme http://www.apexengineeringproducts.c...s/rydlymehome/. On my Deere I was able to get the cores out of the housings while still on the engine and cleaned them up with Zep calcium, lime & rust remover, got it at walmart or Lowes. When you put them back together slather the cores and o rings with http://www.alco-metalube.com/products.htm. Go look a Tony's website for lots of info on taking care of diesels http://www.sbmar.com/product-categor...ease-sealants/. You can get most of the rectorseal products at home depot.
    Stop dealing with the engine dealers around here and call these guys for some honest & good advise info on volvo's.http://www.mcdonnellmarine.com

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    from another site i hang out on
    Below are a couple of 2009 posts by Tony Athens. The bottom post was a response to a question on a QSC.

    For what it's worth,




    Tony Athens: Circulating a 10:1 mix of HCL thru the raw water side of your engine for a few hours to overnight can do a very good job--Remove all the zincs first--RYDLYME (Google it) does the same thing and has a good web site and supoport that will also do an 1st class job.. Same stuff with some perfume.. Tony

    Tony Athens: Frank, I am not exactly sure what you did but NEXT time ,( and for others), NEVER use acid of any type on the air or fin side of the after cooler.. And when you do use HCL, mix 10:1 with water.. Use it only on the salt water side--cap one end, stand it up and fill up the tubes--takes about 20-30 minutes to do a real good job removing calcium, etc., from the ID of the tubes after a mechanical cleaning with a rod to remove the big pieces........ The fins are very delicate ( very thin) and pure copper does not do well in straight HCL, and even at 10:1 unless it was soaked for a short time which can be marginally OK to remove surface crud only.. Most reading you do with HCL and copper may say different, but I also do not think most writings on this subject does not take into account that we are talking .020"-.030" thick copper foil and solder and/ or roller forming to end caps of an unknown alloy or quality.. Keeping it (10:1 or using something like Rydlyme) in the Cu-Ni tubes only, does has no potential bad side effects. After that we always use soda ash with water for the 100% neutralization of the core/crevices, etc... Cleaning the air side should normally be done with a solvent or spray brake cleaner when really oily and followed up with a serious rinse with some type of water based cleaner with hot water, and/or Ultrasonic cleaning................ As to the silicone strips, an engineerīs wet dream at best.. If and when I catch my breath, Iīll add a bunch to my aftercooler maintenance article and bring it up to date... Tony

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    and some more about using rydlyme
    http://www.apexengineeringproducts.c...r_Brochure.pdf








    Great stuff. I swear by it. Why take things apart if not needed. It was simple to do. Here is the step by step:

    • Remove all zinc pencils & replace with empty caps.
    • Pinch off the water feed for the shaft log.
    • Get a submersible pump and place it in a 5 gallon bucket
    • Disconnect the raw dump into the exhaust riser and connect the pump to the riser

    This will give you the reverse flush.
    • Shut the seacock.
    • Disconnect the seacock from the raw water intake pump & feed that hose into the same 5 gallon bucket. This will be your discharge and re-cycle.
    • Fire the pump up with a full 5 gallon bucket of the Rydlyime Solution.
    • Baby sit the flush you will watch the Rydlyme turn to an odd color as all organic material in the exchangers & coolers breakdown.


    The process is like watching a magic show. I was amazed no worries about broken bolts, loose clamps or anything.
    PS I got the product from Mac Boring.

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    Default Intercooler Tear-down...

    Steve, thanks for the advice. It is much appreciated as always!

    So here's the next view of this process:
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    Default Check the gunk!

    There is some oil present on the fins and tubing of the intercooler. No big deal and easily removed with brake cleaner. That crumbly, crusty, salty-looking stuff is another thing, however...
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    I'm thinking that this corrosion at the endplate of the cooling tube/fin junction may have something to do with the amount of corrosion internally:
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    Call Tony and the guys at Mcdonnall Marine and talk it over with them then slap it all back together and go fishing.

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