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Thread: Winch installation

  1. #1
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
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    Default Winch installation

    Might pick up a winch from somewhere, my question is how complicated is it to instal those things?
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    Member BIGAKSTUFF's Avatar
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    I replied to thread already but for some reason it didn't show up

    Its not hard. I googled my winch and watched a video on an install on my exact ride. Directions also come in the box that have a basic wiring schematic in them. The hardest part of the whole deal was finding a winch mount plate for my year ride, that also had the same bolt pattern of the winch I bought online. You may find it easier to just go to your dealership and pick up a mounting plate from them for your specific ride. You can find much better deals online for a winch than your dealer will offer you though. MUCH BETTER. Get some black zip ties so you can run the wiring clean when you can't run it in the existing harness.

    The most time consuming part was taking off my plastics and moving crap out of the way to install it, then reassembling all the crap when I got the winch in there.
    The Second Amendment.......Know it, love it, support it.

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    There are lots of youtube videos such as this one for a wildcat....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEVvzUduieg It is amazing how many videos out there are helpful. I recently asked for help on the forum for changing solenoids on a 12,000 lb winch and I was guided to a video. Got the upgrade kit and it took me 15 minutes to change out.
    I don't have a sxs but I have seen several that have the receiver hitch front/rear with quick detatch/attach cables to allow capability to move winch front to rear if needed. Sometimes easier to get out the same way you got in bad situation! LOL. That is how I have winch on my truck.

  4. #4
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
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    I wondered how you would have to wire it to make it movable from front to back....
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    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Get the connectors like you can quick connect jumper cables. See link for picture. Easy job!!!

    http://www.peigenesis.com/en/shop/pa..._vcaAoAK8P8HAQ

    As a side note.....Get the wireless remote. I love mine. Hard wired inside the cab. Wireless remote to do all the dirty work while the misses stays inside dry....well as long as we are not chest deep in water

    Need a hand I am free weekends and evenings.

    On Edit: So how is the spring battle going?

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    Spring is still good!! Been riding it hard too. Now I have thrown two electrical codes and I'm leaking radiator fluid...
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRWNBR View Post
    .....Now I have thrown two electrical codes and I'm leaking radiator fluid...
    Oh Gawd...!!!
    Sheep hunting...... the pain goes away, but the stupidity remains...!!!

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    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRWNBR View Post
    Spring is still good!! Been riding it hard too. Now I have thrown two electrical codes and I'm leaking radiator fluid...

    Don't panic.....seeing radiator fluid is a common thing from a new machine, well depending where it is coming from. The machine could be still new enough that all the air is not burped out and it will toss some fluid. A check of the hose clamps wouldn't hurt anything.

    Now to the electrical codes. What are they? Things get wet?

    There is dealer prep and then there is my prep. I have bought a couple of crate machines in the past and I hate to say the dealer prep checklist sucks but I have learned to take things a lot further. I don't tear things down but I try to hit the things that would be easy to miss during build. I also have more time to go over a machine then the dealer. I lso take the time to take aprt electrical connectors and put in a healthy dose of dielectric grease.

  9. #9
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
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    Codes were PO116 and PO119 while it says my machine was hot.

    Fluid is leaking at the hose clamps, but they sure feel tight.

    At least my spring is still good!!! Lol making progress!
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  10. #10
    Moderator kingfisherktn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRWNBR View Post
    Codes were PO116 and PO119 while it says my machine was hot.

    Fluid is leaking at the hose clamps, but they sure feel tight.

    At least my spring is still good!!! Lol making progress!
    Sounds more like, one step foward and two steps backwards. Lol

  11. #11
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
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    At least we got a step forward!!! Your turn now buddy!
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    Moderator kingfisherktn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRWNBR View Post
    At least we got a step forward!!! Your turn now buddy!
    I'm trying to get those steps forward. I think all of the steps backwards have ceased. 👍

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    Quote Originally Posted by BRWNBR View Post
    Codes were PO116 and PO119 while it says my machine was hot.

    Fluid is leaking at the hose clamps, but they sure feel tight.

    At least my spring is still good!!! Lol making progress!


    PO116 means that the ecu is recieving a signal from the temp sensor that is out of the normal range, usually its caused by an open or shorted circuit or sensor.

    Here is a test and fix for the issue:
    Issue
    PO code displayed on gauge. Codes possibly displayed are:
    PO116
    PO117
    PO118
    PO119
    Resolution
    The main harness connector at the ECT sensor has possibly failed and needs to be replaced. Perform the following test to verify the sensor is functioning properly.

    Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT)

    NOTE: Preliminary checks may be performed on this component using the diagnostic mode on the LCD gauge.

    1. Connect the meter leads (selector in OHMS position)to the sensor terminals.

    2. Suspend the sensor and a thermometer in a container of cooking oil; then heat the oil.

    NOTE: Neither the sensor nor the thermometer should be allowed to touch the bottom of the container or inaccurate readings will occur Use wire holders to suspend the sensor and thermometer.

    3. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches 60C (140 F), the meter should read approximately 703 ohms 5%.

    4. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches 90C (194 F), the meter should read approximately 260 ohms 5%.

    5. On the ECT sensor when temperature reaches 120 C (248 F), the meter should read approximately 111 ohms 5%.

    6. If the readings are not as indicated, the sensor must be replaced.

    7. Install the sensor and tighten securely.


    If the sensor tests within the above specifications, order ECT Sensor Connector Repair Kit p/n 2436-212 and replace the connector

    Or you could just disconnect the sensor and clean the plug and reinstall with dielectric grease.

  14. #14
    Member 2dawgs's Avatar
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    There is a connection that "on the quads" is under the glove box. I've had 2 that weren't connected good from the factory, they were throwing similar codes. I just traced the cables from the fuse box and pushed the connector together. Fixed the problem. Sorry to hear your having so many problems with this dang thing.

  15. #15
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
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    Lol geez you guys...I know where my glove box is, what my seat is, where my tires are and how to put air in them!! I don't know crap about a fuse box or codes or cables and anything attached to a mechanical devise. It's all like math to me...just a blurry bunch of lines and shapes.
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  16. #16
    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRWNBR View Post
    Lol geez you guys...I know where my glove box is, what my seat is, where my tires are and how to put air in them!! I don't know crap about a fuse box or codes or cables and anything attached to a mechanical devise. It's all like math to me...just a blurry bunch of lines and shapes.

    We need to help you with a little field mechanical training 101. If you plan to troubleshoot it yourself let me know. I 'll help you. It is really pretty easy. The other thing is carry my phone number. I am real good at field diagnostics over the phone and if all else fails I most likely can get you rescued within a couple of hours.

  17. #17

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    Hey Jake,

    Did I ever tell you why I have 2 ATV's that can haul 2 people and can tow each other? Well, besides the fact that me and my wife are blowing by our mid 60's and don't relish the thought of long walks on rough trails any more.

    I don't much enjoy working on an ATV unless it is in my garage during the off season! Some of my worst memories are being broke down miles from camp at night, in the rain, with my wife holding a light so I could try to get a machine going.

    As you know, they all break down, just a matter of when, not if. Now they have computers, codes, etc. Just what I needed.

  18. #18
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    You can install a winch in a matter of hours. All need a custom bracket to mate winch to machine. The wiring is straight forward, some machines are easier with preinstalled connectors. You need to mount some electrical parts in a dry place. There are ATV websites where all this info is on line.

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