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Thread: fabricating an aluminum roof over the fishing deck...

  1. #1
    Member nahmint's Avatar
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    Default fabricating an aluminum roof over the fishing deck...

    My boat is a '08 Hewescraft 220 Searunner ht/et.
    I'd like to replace the full canvas cover over the fishing deck with an aluminum roof.
    Has anyone done this on this or a similar boat? pics?
    I'm interested in pros/cons/concerns.
    My thought is to use 3/16" marine aluminum... bolt it to the lip on the hardtop and have suitable posts near the back of the transom fish box.
    Any input would be appreciated. ThanksIMG_5122.jpg
    '08 Hewescraft 220 Searunner ht/et
    Yamahas: 150 & 9.9HT/Yamaha fuel-flow gauges
    Raymarine C-80 chartplotter/sounder/radar
    Icom vhf/Dickinson 9000 heater/Ace Brutus+40 pot puller/Zodiac tender

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    Premium Member bmunsell's Avatar
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    I have no experience with aluminum tops myself, but have started thinking about one for my jet boat. Just wondering, 3/16 seems like it would be way over kill for a top.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmunsell View Post
    I have no experience with aluminum tops myself, but have started thinking about one for my jet boat. Just wondering, 3/16 seems like it would be way over kill for a top.
    Depends on the number of ribs and if you plan on putting anything on top.

  4. #4

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    There's at least 2 Hewes in the Homer harbor that have what you're taking about. I'll see tomorrow if I can get some pics.
    3/16 is overkill. Go with a good design that sheds water (a very slight camber) and you will be able to use 1/8.
    On a side note what's the boat powered with?
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

  5. #5

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    006 ...jpg Something like this maybe?

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    I like! You're smarter than the average hunter.

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    Member pacific23's Avatar
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    something similar to this..

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    img047.jpgLike this?

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    Member nahmint's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback... the pics/comments are helpful as I fine tune a design!
    Nunya... yes, that's pretty close to what I'm looking for.
    How did you attach new piece to the cabin hardtop?
    Are the posts aluminum? Is the aluminum roof 1/8" or ?
    How much weight can you put on top... what kind of stuff do you put up there?

    Thanks again.
    '08 Hewescraft 220 Searunner ht/et
    Yamahas: 150 & 9.9HT/Yamaha fuel-flow gauges
    Raymarine C-80 chartplotter/sounder/radar
    Icom vhf/Dickinson 9000 heater/Ace Brutus+40 pot puller/Zodiac tender

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    It's 1/8" and plenty stout. I had it bent to match the roof line, welded 2" flat bar to the front and bolted it to roof. Posts are aluminum. You can put coolers, raft, or whatever on it.

  11. #11

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    Consider building the roof arch with two stacked flat bar, worked very well for me when I extended the roof of my boat cabin. It turned out very tight fitting and strong, easy to build, and inexpensive when compaired to using rolled square tube or something like that. Plus it's very low profile, meaning you get more head room and have less of a head banger. I think it would work well on your application.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Predator Control View Post
    Consider building the roof arch with two stacked flat bar, worked very well for me when I extended the roof of my boat cabin. It turned out very tight fitting and strong, easy to build, and inexpensive when compaired to using rolled square tube or something like that. Plus it's very low profile, meaning you get more head room and have less of a head banger. I think it would work well on your application.
    So what's the point of not using one bar that's the same thickness as two? Makes no sense unless you just had stuff laying about. Besides, a split 1X2X1/8 rec tube would do the same with much less weight.

  13. #13

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    You have to think out of the box with this method...trust me this is the way to go. The material I used was 3/16 thick, the bar closest to the 1/8" roof material is 1 1/2" and the one stacked below it is 1" wide. You need a slight camber to your roof for this too work (I think mine was 4" over +7' wide roof. So imagine with your roof cambered you measure and cut the wider flat bar the width of the roof. Tack it in place Making sure it is formed tight to the roof following the roof camber. Now tack the second more narrower bar center on the wider first bar bowed up tight to it.......now think about it. In order for the roof to collapse the two bars would have to slip by each other. But they can't because they are welded in place bowed up and form a rigid arch!
    I bet comparing the weight of AL tube you mention, to this flat bar, the flat bar would be the same or lighter. Flat bar is less expensive. And you would have to take your tube and have someone with the equipment roll it at $100/ hr. And this flat bar is just a bump on the roof...not a 1" head banger. It's a 5/8" head room gain. And it's an easy install. I would have never thought out of the box enough to figure this out myself. An old timer from Kenai, who built aluminum boats for 4 decades, told me to do it like this after I already BOUGHT my 1" square tube. I did it his way. He was right. I like everything about how it turned out. If anyone wants more info/photos. Let me know

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    Member nahmint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Predator Control View Post
    You have to think out of the box with this method...trust me this is the way to go. The material I used was 3/16 thick, the bar closest to the 1/8" roof material is 1 1/2" and the one stacked below it is 1" wide. You need a slight camber to your roof for this too work (I think mine was 4" over +7' wide roof. So imagine with your roof cambered you measure and cut the wider flat bar the width of the roof. Tack it in place Making sure it is formed tight to the roof following the roof camber. Now tack the second more narrower bar center on the wider first bar bowed up tight to it.......now think about it. In order for the roof to collapse the two bars would have to slip by each other. But they can't because they are welded in place bowed up and form a rigid arch!
    I bet comparing the weight of AL tube you mention, to this flat bar, the flat bar would be the same or lighter. Flat bar is less expensive. And you would have to take your tube and have someone with the equipment roll it at $100/ hr. And this flat bar is just a bump on the roof...not a 1" head banger. It's a 5/8" head room gain. And it's an easy install. I would have never thought out of the box enough to figure this out myself. An old timer from Kenai, who built aluminum boats for 4 decades, told me to do it like this after I already BOUGHT my 1" square tube. I did it his way. He was right. I like everything about how it turned out. If anyone wants more info/photos. Let me know
    I like the technical theory here. Additional photos/info would be a great help. THANKS.
    '08 Hewescraft 220 Searunner ht/et
    Yamahas: 150 & 9.9HT/Yamaha fuel-flow gauges
    Raymarine C-80 chartplotter/sounder/radar
    Icom vhf/Dickinson 9000 heater/Ace Brutus+40 pot puller/Zodiac tender

  15. #15

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    Im not sure what you need to know? Seems like the photos would tell you everything you need. If that dosent do it I guess you need ask a question

    image.jpgimage.jpg

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    I built a 10' roof like Predator Control is talking about on a 24' riverboat I built a few years ago. I just don't think it would look as good on a Hewescraft. The one I built for the '06 Hewescraft was formed to match the roof. Four breaks and you are done. You then have the same transition from front of boat all the way to the stern. A lot less labor intensive. It shouldn't cost over $100 to have the breaks done.

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    Here are a couple of pics. One looking to cabin and one looking aft.


    Attachment 88390Attachment 88391

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