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Thread: Hewes Craft Oweners

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    Default Hewes Craft Oweners

    I have a Hewes craft in my shop and pulling wet foam out, and doing a deck replacement. I am seeing things you might want to look at. If you have any questions you can pm me and I will give you my number. So far I have removed over 150lbs of wet stuff. I would like to add don't leave your aluminum boat in the homer harbor if it doesn't have a good bottom paint job, and a lot of zincs. not liking what I am seeing.

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    What are you replacing the deck with?

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    Default Hewes Craft Oweners

    Since you're in there, I would suggest a thorough inspection of all internal welds, specifically strakes to hull and scantlings. Along with those, I once repaired a 12" crack in the keel, thankfully the angle welded externally kept the whole thing from coming unzipped. It appeared that the new hires did the structural welding and the steady hands did all the visible, pretty work.

    I perhaps had a Friday boat, but after that I have never understood the fascination with that particular brand.

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    I am going to used Speedliner over plywood same as I did for Big Jim on the QuickWater.
    Quote Originally Posted by h20fowler View Post
    What are you replacing the deck with?

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    Member Ak Bird Brain's Avatar
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    I was also shocked to see some of the welds on my hull up under my bow. Looks like a hamster gnawed the pieces and a blind person did the welds. Took it back where I bought it and Hews sent a welder up to redo some of them, but thats only what ive seen. Im kind of afraid to pull the floor up.
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    MGH55: folks on the HC forum indicate bottom paint does nothing for corrosion protection only growth protection? See link. Also, would a cathodic control be of any help on these boats?

    http://www.hewescraftowners.com/HCO/...p=19313#p19313

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by MGH55 View Post
    ...aluminum boat in the homer harbor....
    Go dangle your multimeter in the harbor. I'm betting they have a great big electric leak in their infrastructure. Not a place to leave ANY aluminum boat without about a ton of zincs. Sad to say, it's really common in harbors. I wouldn't rent a slip on a bet without checking a harbor for stray electrons.

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    When you have a good barrier coat in will act just like coating on a wire. The less bare aluminum in the water the better. I had to deal with way to many boats in way to many harbors during my 21 years in the Coast Guard. We are dealing with electrolysis not corrosion.
    Quote Originally Posted by timinhomer View Post
    MGH55: folks on the HC forum indicate bottom paint does nothing for corrosion protection only growth protection? See link. Also, would a cathodic control be of any help on these boats?

    http://www.hewescraftowners.com/HCO/...p=19313#p19313

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    Quote Originally Posted by MGH55 View Post
    I am going to used Speedliner over plywood same as I did for Big Jim on the QuickWater.
    My old beater Hewes Craft was also waterlogged. A ton of weight. I didn't notice any scary welds, but now I am going to look again.

    What are you replacing the foam with?

    Do you spray the Speedliner or take it to them? The website looked like they want their installer to do it.

    Thanks
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    I do it at my shop, I am a installer I do boat decks, bed liners, and rocker panels. I am not going to put foam back in any form. I like good air flow. I do some custom too. PM me and I will give you my number.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bullbuster View Post
    I didn't notice any scary welds, but now I am going to look again.

    Thanks

    Sometimes the bad welds are hidden under dirt. Use a big hammer to test them to make sure there good. Also look at and under the fuel tanks for corrosion.

  12. #12

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    I have a Hewes PE260 now a PE 280.5. With all the changes I've made I have seen almost every weld on the boat, most from both sides. I also have a Wooldridge river boat. I have to say the structure and welds on both boats are excellent. The Hewes exceeded what I expected. Having said that...I remove every bit of spray in foam I can. Sometimes I replace it with closed cell foam and sometimes I don't depends on whether it helps insulate the cabin or not. I think spraying that type of foam in an aluminum boat is a bad deal, insulation is a good thing, flotation is a good thing, but there is so much water logged spray foam out there on Hewes boats you'd think they would figure out a better and different way of adding flotation. I also have a self bailing deck and therefore a dry bilge. None of the foam I've removed has ever been wet.

    I've only taken the boat to Homer once, I was warned that the harbor was "hot" by several people. I did not test it. I do keep the "zincs" replaced on a regular basis and have a galvanic isolater on the boat. I'd be concerned about leaving an aluminum boat in a hot harbor for very long.

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    Quote Originally Posted by timinhomer View Post
    MGH55: folks on the HC forum indicate bottom paint does nothing for corrosion protection only growth protection? See link. Also, would a cathodic control be of any help on these boats?

    http://www.hewescraftowners.com/HCO/...p=19313#p19313

    There answers are true when it comes to electrolysis corrosion. But not as true when it comes to galvanic corrosion. That is also wrong if I've wanted to be picky. If the boat has bottom paint the first signs of galvanic corrosion will be bubbles in the paint.

    I'm not suggesting having bottom paint is a bad idea or you should not use it. What Iím saying is know all the pro-and-con's of any product.


    A lot of the problems in a harbor is not the harbor fault but the boats in the harbor. If your going to connect to the power grid you need a Galvanic isolator or a isolation transformer depending on how bad it is.

    Throwing zincs at a corrosion is never a good solution, fixing the problem is a better.

    Anyone wanting to measuring hull potential or stray voltage should first learn how to do it correctly so they won't get any false reading or electrocuted not saying it will happen. Just saying it can happen.

  14. #14

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    I'm coming into my 4th year running my Hewes 24 Alaskan year-round. I average over 1,000 hrs a year (currently 1250 hrs since last March' repower) as a water taxi in the summer and winter King fishing. The boat sits in the hot Homer harbor year round with bottom paint that's going on its 3rd year with no bubbling or signs of corrosion. I replaced my soaked deck couple years ago with Speedlined plywood and its performed perfectly with a LOT of abuse. Very little of the foam was wet and that was removed.
    Am I fascinated with the boat? Pretty much as it does exactly what I need it to do, day in & day out. It's fast, economical, comfortable hauling 6 passengers in crappy conditions (have had it in breaking 8'), fishes awesome, gets just about as shallow as our landing craft, can throw 3 double kayaks on the roof and best of all its paid for and earns its keep.
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by yanert View Post
    I have to say the structure and welds on both boats are excellent. The Hewes exceeded what I expected.
    I took our Open Fisherman to a local boat builder to have downrigger bases welded on, a detail I forgot when ordering. The builder is very good and has a great local rep. The guy said it was his first chance to look at a Hewes, and pretty quick he was crawling all over it, poking his nose and flashlight anywhere he could get. He spent an hour going over the boat (his nickel) and came away shaking his head. Said it was the best welding he'd ever seen, and he's love to replace a couple of his own with those working for Hewes. Good enuff for me.

  16. #16
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    I have not pulled my floor to look around but I have looked into the bow area. The welds on my '15 OP look good to me.

  17. #17

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    Bang for the buck just can't go wrong with a Hewes; yeah there are a couple of things to address (replace the factory vinyl covered deck and check foam asap) also maybe upgrade wiring at some point but I'm happy with mine and it's an older model and has more hours and use on it than maybe any other Hewes. Would I love a custom BayWeld? Absolutely bit since I can't swing that and my boat is paid for, I'm good for now!
    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

  18. #18

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    I agree with Big Jim: Bang for the buck...No boat is perfect at least none I've looked at. I'm sorry some people have gotten a less than great weld from Hewes on occasion. But that is not where their weakness lies in mho. The foam flotation has been a problem for far to many. The wiring though it works and for the most part is adequate is not done in as professional a manner as I would have liked. Saying that I would guess most of the sloppy wiring is the result of the dealer rigger not Hewes. Fortunately, on a Hewes, the wiring is reasonably easy to access. The wiring diagram is confusing because it shows several options and you may not be sure which one or how they apply to your boat. Wire marking would help a lot, besides for the color coding they use. The use of in line fuses and several small fuse panels instead of a main panel takes a bit to wade through. There is a main breaker panel on the dash, half of which was not in use when I got my boat. Most of mine is upgraded. I'm not trading mine in anytime soon. I use the boat over 40 days a year and the cost of the boat compared to the cost of my dream boat makes it one of the best deals I've encountered. Most the weld type problems, as well as problems in general I've read about on forums and seen in person, Hewes has dealt with properly.

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    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    My wiring seems pretty good. I have very fee complaints so far. I did know what i was getting.


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    Quote Originally Posted by yanert View Post
    The wiring though it works and for the most part is adequate is not done in as professional a manner as I would have liked. Saying that I would guess most of the sloppy wiring is the result of the dealer rigger not Hewes. Fortunately, on a Hewes, the wiring is reasonably easy to access. The wiring diagram is confusing because it shows several options and you may not be sure which one or how they apply to your boat. Wire marking would help a lot, besides for the color coding they use. The use of in line fuses and several small fuse panels instead of a main panel takes a bit to wade through. There is a main breaker panel on the dash, half of which was not in use when I got my boat.

    Last year a guy was having corrosion problems and ask me questions about trouble shooting his Hewes electrical systems. I decided to call up Hewes Craft and get a schematic to get a head start. They told me they do not have it because the only wiring they do is install a wiring harness and panel for the engine(s). All the other wiring is done by the dealer.

    I know it not going to be fun but you really need to find out what diagram you have before you have a problem. There nothing worst having a problem and not having a good schematic.

    Would it be possible to get a copy of your wiring diagram?

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