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Thread: House Battery in a Kingfisher

  1. #1

    Default House Battery in a Kingfisher

    I purchased a 2007 2825 Harbercraft Kingfisher a month ago and am outfitting her for the upcoming season. I ordered an EZ Anchor Winch and am planning on installing a third battery as a house battery. There is currently 2 31 series batteries (one for each engine) located under the rear bait box/cutting table. Any ideas on the size of battery for the house and for those of you with this boat, where did you mount your third battery. Photos and ideas of how you anchored the battery and box would be much appreciated also.

    IMG_0923.jpg

  2. #2

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    i feel your pain!..never enough power!!..lol
    im running a pair of 6 volts(house) and one 12 volt starter!
    .
    .looking at those smaller, light weight lithium for another house battery but they run over 1000 bucks?!....will have to keep thinking about this!!

    29' Wooldridge Pilot House, Twin 200 Hp Etecs! "...Pez Gordo..."
    18' Wooldridge Sport with 200 hp sport jet. "...Little Pez..."

  3. #3

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    I have a single D4 battery for my house battery. I put it in the transom compartment under the two diamond plate access holes. It was a little tight to get it in so you may need to trim it out a little. Or you could pull up the rear deck and mount it behind the fuel tank.

  4. #4
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    There several things you need to consider before deciding on the size and location of the house batteries.

    They needs to be the same type as the two starting batteries.
    If the starting batteries are old they need to be replace depending on the method you use to charge the house battery.
    How do you plan to power the anchor winch? The preferred method is put a battery close the winch so you don't have to used large cables. If you going to use the house battery will it have enough power left to pull the anchor after a night or two on the water?
    If the batteries are not fully charged when back in port what method do you plan on using to charge them before the next trip?
    Are you going to have a back up plan if the battery failed to pull the anchor?
    Are my suggestion a over kill? It depends on if you want a trouble free battery system for years to come or replace them every couple of years.

    Do you plan on doing the wiring your self or having a professional do it?





    Bcriverhunter
    I've don't think your engines can produce the proper charging current and voltage to keep lithium batteries happy.

  5. #5
    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    Yea you want a deep cycle battery the bigger the better, and D4s are great for this purpose. My family's big boat has four D4s. Kingfishers are not user friendly when it comes to electrical and hull inspections because everything is covered up.

    Sobie2

  6. #6

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    Sobie2
    I plan on running all starter batteries because Mercury requires them with the DTS and Smartview system.

    alaskanap
    How did you tie your battery down in the transom compartment?

    MacGyver
    One place I thought of placing the battery is in the existing anchor rode locker but I still need large cabling to run back to the other batteries in case the house battery is low. EZ Anchor said I could run 2/0 cable from the back of the boat to power their winch. This is something I need to confirm. Mercury uses 70 amp alternators so I plan on using them to keep all three batteries charged. I know it will take two ACRs and two or three switches depending on which configuration I want to go with. Bluesea.com has some great schematics for wiring multiple engines to multiple batteries.

  7. #7
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    Default House Battery in a Kingfisher

    I run Mercury too and have my start battery isolated from my house batteries. Due to the voltage required on your DTS
    Do I give my friends advice? Jesus, no. They wouldn't take advice from me. Nobody should take advice from me. I haven't got a clue about anything..

  8. #8
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    Default House Battery in a Kingfisher

    One other thing which wasn't said yet. But always have your motors running. When you pull your anchor.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Do I give my friends advice? Jesus, no. They wouldn't take advice from me. Nobody should take advice from me. I haven't got a clue about anything..

  9. #9

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    There is a flat plate we screwed down a battery tray to and strapped it down.

  10. #10
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    There a service bulletin on DST saying you should use AGM if you have a problem with low voltage.

    http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/Me...02008-04R1.pdf

    I think it more importance than ever to have a profession design and build a boat electrical system using ABYC standards.

    When I say profession I don't mean a shop that said they know what there doing but one that really knows what there doing.

  11. #11

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    I have a 2006 3025 and it came with a battery for each engine under the bait box as you mentioned, and a house battery under the swim step. I replaced the single house battery with a dual battery tray under the swim step (tray from Cabelas catalog) and a double battery set-up for the house. I can run lights, stereo, heater and VHF for 3 or 4 days at anchor before I have to recharge. I carry a Honda 1000 for the recharge duties. Where are you located? You're welcome to stop by (Palmer) and look at my set-up if you'd like.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by kingfisher57 View Post
    I have a 2006 3025 and it came with a battery for each engine under the bait box as you mentioned, and a house battery under the swim step. I replaced the single house battery with a dual battery tray under the swim step (tray from Cabelas catalog) and a double battery set-up for the house. I can run lights, stereo, heater and VHF for 3 or 4 days at anchor before I have to recharge. I carry a Honda 1000 for the recharge duties. Where are you located? You're welcome to stop by (Palmer) and look at my set-up if you'd like.
    My set up is the exact same thing except for my house battery is a single D4. I carry a Yamaha 1000 but have yet had to use it for charging the batteries.

  13. #13
    Member KenaiFly's Avatar
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    This is how I like to see it done. It is an economical choice and simple to operate. Good job AKMike30. You can simply move both group 31 batteries to your house side, buy a new battery for starting, use a simple DPST on/off/combine switch with one ACR. Anything additional will add complexity and cost, to which there is no limit. You can continue to add equipment, wire, capacity, switches to do the exact same thing, or to add functionality, but this is a good example of where to start.

    Unless you have a sophisticated charge controller, I would not mix battery technology. They each have specific voltage ranges to get the best performance and life. The comment on AGM use where voltage sensitive equipment is concerned didn't mention that you are only one tenth of a volt higher (per cell) at float with an AGM type, but absorption voltage is actually lower by two tenths of a volt. IN OTHER WORDS...it doesn't do any good for your engine digital controller equipment. It is more important to have large enough gauge wire to compensate for voltage drop from the battery to the motor.

    AGM does, however, enjoy other benefits and makes for a good battery choice. Flooded cell will be the least expensive.

    Good Luck, from Brett @ Polar Marine


    Quote Originally Posted by akmike30 View Post
    I run Mercury too and have my start battery isolated from my house batteries. Due to the voltage required on your DTS
    Last edited by KenaiFly; 01-19-2016 at 09:58. Reason: technical change

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