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Thread: The old and the new

  1. #1

    Default The old and the new

    I've looked at the forum rules and I'm not clear if what I'm doing fits the guidelines but I'll Have a go at it:

    I've been involved with building boats since 1975 in Homer. I've never advertised for business, relying completely on word-of-mouth but recently have formed a relationship with two young men in Homer to build boats of my design. I'm headed toward the pasture and only want so much work; kinda sliding slowly into retirement (king salmon fishing!).

    My primary design tool is a surface modeling program called ProSurf, which is specific to hull modeling, that I began using in 1998. I have the materials cut by Alaska Steel, in Anchorage, using their high definition plasma cutting machine. I try as much as possible to keep it all in Alaska though I have used Alaskan Copper & Brass for larger projects because of their more robust cutting capabilities.

    These two young men have started a business named Metal Marine, an offspring of Glenn's Welding, a business their father started many wears ago. They have built two of my designs now, a 25' net-skiff for Bristol Bay and a just recently finished a 21' bay runabout. They are excellent craftsman, are a lot of fun to work with AND have that so marvelous flexibility of youth! They have a well equipped spacious shop.

    So, if it's okie dokie on this venue I'll show a few pics of our last build. If it passes muster, I'll happily add more and contact info, etc.

    R/Mark
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  2. #2
    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    I love this boat. You can PM me if you like, but I am thinking about having a boat built similar to what you have posted here, but I am looking for a 24-26'er with a 10' beam, and a landing craft bow. Did you also post the settee on boatdesign?

    Sober

  3. #3
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Very nice boat!
    Look forward to seeing more details and pics.
    Bk
    BK Marine Services 232-6399
    Planar diesel heaters dealer, service, warranty, and installation.
    Airboats, ocean boats, and river boats serviced.
    https://www.facebook.com/BKMarineServices?fref=ts

  4. #4

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    Beautiful work! I would love to see photos of the details. Like roof supports, dash, hand rails. Nice shop too! That's two very talented, Lucky guys.

  5. #5
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    nice proportions on the hull/house, pleasing to the eye. Just a bit more overhang on the backend of the roof would dump the water over the stern instead of into the cockpit. Nice work and if you ever build one with the house on the pointy end and it needs a pot hauler on it i'd love to talk with you about a nice clean install on a combo outside steering station with one of my Electra Dyne haulers built into it.

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

    Rigid & Folding Shrimp & Crab Pots
    Electra Dyne Pot Haulers
    Ropes, Buoys, Bait
    alaskashrimppots.com
    akshrimppots@mtaonline.net
    907 775 1692

  6. #6

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    Some more pics during construction. Do I have it right that one can only load 2 files at a time? I just get red exclamation marks beside files when I try to load more that two.




    8 (Medium).JPG4 (Medium).JPG

  7. #7

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    More pics:
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sobie2 View Post
    I love this boat. You can PM me if you like, but I am thinking about having a boat built similar to what you have posted here, but I am looking for a 24-26'er with a 10' beam, and a landing craft bow. Did you also post the settee on boatdesign?

    Sober
    Sobie, I'd like to communicate with you but apparently don't have sufficient privileges to do so, or so I'm warned when I try to! My email is: meco@xyz.net

    I can design any skiff you'd like, I have designed and built landing craft.

    Are you asking if I showed the net skiff on BoatDesignNet? If so, yes.

  9. #9
    Member
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    Kenai, AK
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    Let's see pictures of the setnet skiff as well

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by catchfish View Post
    Let's see pictures of the setnet skiff as well
    catchfish, the easiest thing is to point you to another forum (if that's OK?) wherein I lay out the particulars of a 25' net skiff with pics and chat:

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/met...ska-52710.html

    The owner was very happy with the result. In that this is not within the scope of this forum, please contact me otherwise for more information if you are a commercial fisher and have interest. Not to say that the design can't be modified for other uses, though!

    R/Mark

  11. #11

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    Interior pics:
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  12. #12

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    More interior pics:
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  13. #13

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    Just tonight I got a mail from a friend with this URL about the young woman that I designed the net skiff for:

    http://kdlg.org/post/setnetters-journey-homer-back-bay

    The very best part of all this has been my adventures with bright young people. When I hear some talk about the younger generations being slackers, I laugh out loud! There is nothing that makes me feel better than giving a hand to youngsters.

  14. #14

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    A couple more details. The hull has a self-bailing deck that is divided into four separate water-tight compartments There is the bow float/collision bulkhead with two subdividing chambers in the main deck area, then the after transom. Except for the bowfloat, there are inspection access's to each chamber should there be damage.

    I use my version of the so-called Euro Style transom. While it is reported that an "off shore" or "rack" type engine support makes the engine more efficient by supplying cleaner water to the prop, I like the Euro style for two reasons: it gives the craft a little leaner aspect ratio and provides floatation to counteract engine weight. Even though manufacturers are doing a marvelous job of reducing the weight of 4s motors, they still are heavy. I've seen skiffs with a pipe rack bracket that have a hard time reversing off a beach in a stern sea because the prop wash piles against the stern thus providing no rearward thrust.

    The fuel tank mounts up forward against the bowfloat/collision bulkhead. That's where the weight wants to be in a bow-picker setup. The scalloped horizontal plates that split the side height and run fully fore/aft are trimmed with pipe and provide several things: stiffening the side panels, a handy step over the side, a rod try and numerous tie-up/down points. There is one cleat on the bowfloat aft and two at the stern, port and starboard. I have an abhorrence of strakes on the outside of the hull above water - that's just me.


    decks (Medium).JPGstern (Medium).JPG

    Mark

  15. #15
    Member sisusuomi's Avatar
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    Juneau near the glacier
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    I'm no expert of any blink of the imagination but when building the extended transom why don't the builders extend it the full with of the hull. My Raider does that and from what the guys I've had on the boat here in Juneau tell me is my boat has less wobble than theirs with the extended transom like you're showing in the photo? Just a question not calling any shots here or pointing to something to cause an argument.

    Quote Originally Posted by copperlake View Post
    Some more pics during construction. Do I have it right that one can only load 2 files at a time? I just get red exclamation marks beside files when I try to load more that two.




    8 (Medium).JPG4 (Medium).JPG

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by sisusuomi View Post
    I'm no expert of any blink of the imagination but when building the extended transom why don't the builders extend it the full with of the hull. My Raider does that and from what the guys I've had on the boat here in Juneau tell me is my boat has less wobble than theirs with the extended transom like you're showing in the photo? Just a question not calling any shots here or pointing to something to cause an argument.
    I have no idea what you mean by 'less wobble'! Just about anything about boats can cause debate and usually the smaller the boat, the bigger the debate....

    Mark

  17. #17

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    This the latest that I have produced from my shop; a 25' X 8.5' walk around cabin skiff. I am not crazy about the walk 'round style format on a small skiff because they look like a Toonerville Trolley or a s__t house in the fog and there is little that one can do to obviate that effect. Far better, IMO, is a pass-through configuration that goes fully athwart. BUT, the customer is ALWAYS right. This is a stretched version of the already shown design. The client has his own ideas about glazing thus nothing has been done regarding that.
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  18. #18

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    This thread has a great discussion of stern designs
    http://www.aluminumalloyboats.com/vi...hp?f=4&p=45751

    Basically, of course an extended waterline is better, but where do you stop? I do think that my boat is more stable because of the full width transom.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by chtucker View Post
    This thread has a great discussion of stern designs
    http://www.aluminumalloyboats.com/vi...hp?f=4&p=45751

    Basically, of course an extended waterline is better, but where do you stop? I do think that my boat is more stable because of the full width transom.
    Here is an axiom regarding small metal boats: it is only a matter of time before KM will be quoted! And I say this out of respect only.

    Of course your boat is more stable if it is full width aft! BUT, there are other things, at times, to consider when making choices. For example: if your 'full width' breaks on a horse power calculation, which way are you gonna go? Wetted surface is wetted surface. Not only is your 'full width bottom' more stable, it would be even more stable if the whole of it was as flat as a piece of plywood from SBS. My issue was with the word 'wobble'. Under way, one would not notice much difference (if at all) between the two.

  20. #20

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    A little update: The last boat I showed from my shop was not finished as the client wanted operator windows on the sides and there was just too much delay between when he could get them so the skiff got parked for the winter. Also, I had a accident that took nearly five months to fully recover from along with I'll never be the same again. Old bones don't heal very fast. Here's a pic of it now, ready for glazing and engine installation. After I healed, I started another 25' skiff that has a walk-through cabin shown with the blue bill. The last pic is of it being rolled showing how I frame. The hull is separated into five air chambers forming the self-bailing deck works. 1/'4" 5086 bottom and all the rest is 3/16" 5052 except for the cabin, which is 1/8" 5052.

    Open for business, I only do two a year as I'm on a glide path to hanging it up but the kids want to do more. I've built from 6' to 40' LOA. I also sell the design, which includes me managing the cutting (I send the electronic file to whoever you chose to have cut it out and handle any questions the cutter may have). Also included is a finite amount of help with going about how to sequence the construction, tips and no-no's. For anyone interested I have a rather long thread on WeldingWeb showing a skiff being put together. It has some really great back and forth with Kevin Morin and others:

    http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...aluminum-skiff
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