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Thread: davit build

  1. #41
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    There another problem I found when looking at circuit breakers that I think you would like to know about.
    Depending on the location you may want to have one that is water proof. The Blue Sea 187 series is water proof the 285 series is water resistance and the Klixon does not say what it is.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacGyver View Post
    There another problem I found when looking at circuit breakers that I think you would like to know about.
    Depending on the location you may want to have one that is water proof. The Blue Sea 187 series is water proof the 285 series is water resistance and the Klixon does not say what it is.
    What I said was correct but misleading.
    I did not see the find print the 285 and Klixon series circuit breakers fall under IP67- protected against immersion up to 1 meter for 30 minutes. The 187 series fall under IP66 protected against powerful water jets.

    Sorry

  3. #43
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    I mounted it high in the gunnel behind thebulkhead. It is not blue seas. Blue seas does not make their own.? This one is manufactured by the company that makes blue seas. It is marine rated, but will have to check the packaging for ratings.


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  4. #44
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  7. #47

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    Looks beautiful! Very stout. Nice job!!

  8. #48
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    Try the video again.


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  9. #49
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    Very nice davit bullelkklr.
    That will be nice pulling shrimping gear shortly.
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  10. #50
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    Very nice Randy !! Bet you'll be able to pull your gunnel under water without that davit bending !!

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

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    alaskashrimppots.com
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  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    Very nice Randy !! Bet you'll be able to pull your gunnel under water without that davit bending !!
    I'll try not to do that!

  12. #52
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    I was pulling some hung pots for a friend (someone checked his pots for him and dumped them back in poorly). I had the gunnel pretty close to the water. Stopped the puller and pushed on the rope with my hand - fearing something would snap....it held tight. Couldn't get it loose so I tied the string off to the bow and gave the F250 some juice - and up she popped. Broke the rope at a splice about 600' down.

  13. #53
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    I've been meaning to post up about this since Rob did my crane and pot puller last May. I can't say enough about how great he is to work with and the quality of the work. We've got one year under our belts with it so far and it's been my favorite addition to the boat. Thanks Rob.

    Hope you don't mind Bullelkklr but thought I'd just keep this going since you were talking about the same builder.
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  14. #54
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    Second set.
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  15. #55
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    No worries Patrick L!

  16. #56

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    A bit late on the response regarding wiring but thought I'd throw it out for someone searching. When I first installed my Electra Dyne, I had a heck of a time with the circuit breaker popping, it draws a ton more than the specs say, went from 60 to 80 to 100, and those breakers are expensive. I should note I was pulling a big, very heavy large crab pot when I first got it, probably resulted in higher amp draw than what you see shrimping, but still pulled quicker than I could coil! Got the same response from Electra Dyne when I called, basically don't bother with one, you aren't going to burn up the motor, turn it off if it stops turning, but that is a lot of amperage to leave uncontrolled. Also was told they will run off a single battery better than a bank.

    Sorted it out a while ago. Switched to a smaller crab pot (and crabbing in K-bay closed), upgraded the wire, switched from running off a seperate battery to one tied into the charging system, I went with #2 wire because I have a longer run and put a 150 breaker (100 would probably work fine, 80 was popping occasionally but that is probably solved with right size wire and and a tied in battery) where it comes off the battery switch. Have no problems now, even if I pull a string of 4 shrimp pots, love Steve's small brailer bag and braided line!

    By the way, they have those HI-AMP breakers, same brand as Blue Seas, at Auto Zone for half the price of West Marine, studs may not be as corrosion resistant, but mine show none after 3 years, though the breaker is in the cabin, not out on deck.

  17. #57
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    I'm just about to finish up wiring my e-dyne and have a 100 amp fuse (blue seas safety hub), with 4 gauge wire with 18 ft of positive and 16 feet of negative wire. Was your breaker popping on 100 amps? Was your boat running to provide additional amps?

    How heavy was your large crab pot? I'll be crabbing if it is open so I want to be prepared if the 100 amp goes. Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by BQuad View Post
    A bit late on the response regarding wiring but thought I'd throw it out for someone searching. When I first installed my Electra Dyne, I had a heck of a time with the circuit breaker popping, it draws a ton more than the specs say, went from 60 to 80 to 100, and those breakers are expensive. I should note I was pulling a big, very heavy large crab pot when I first got it, probably resulted in higher amp draw than what you see shrimping, but still pulled quicker than I could coil! Got the same response from Electra Dyne when I called, basically don't bother with one, you aren't going to burn up the motor, turn it off if it stops turning, but that is a lot of amperage to leave uncontrolled. Also was told they will run off a single battery better than a bank.

    Sorted it out a while ago. Switched to a smaller crab pot (and crabbing in K-bay closed), upgraded the wire, switched from running off a seperate battery to one tied into the charging system, I went with #2 wire because I have a longer run and put a 150 breaker (100 would probably work fine, 80 was popping occasionally but that is probably solved with right size wire and and a tied in battery) where it comes off the battery switch. Have no problems now, even if I pull a string of 4 shrimp pots, love Steve's small brailer bag and braided line!

    By the way, they have those HI-AMP breakers, same brand as Blue Seas, at Auto Zone for half the price of West Marine, studs may not be as corrosion resistant, but mine show none after 3 years, though the breaker is in the cabin, not out on deck.
    Ryan
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  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpdeines View Post
    I'm just about to finish up wiring my e-dyne and have a 100 amp fuse (blue seas safety hub), with 4 gauge wire with 18 ft of positive and 16 feet of negative wire. Was your breaker popping on 100 amps? Was your boat running to provide additional amps?

    How heavy was your large crab pot? I'll be crabbing if it is open so I want to be prepared if the 100 amp goes. Thanks

    The blue seas safety hub mention using fast-acting fuses. That may not be a good choice if your worry about blowing a fuse. The current draw on a motor can be two or three times the running current, lasting less than a second to several seconds. If you can't find a 100A slow-blow fused you might consider going to a 125/150A fast-blow or a 100A C.B.

    As always it only a suggestion.

  19. #59
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    At a minimum I'm going to have some 125's on hand. I also have 150A C.B. protecting the hub. I may consider using 125's and then add 100A C.B at the hauler. Thanks for the information MacGyver.
    Ryan
    Kingfisher 2525 Honda 225 & 20

  20. #60
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    Most haulers are wired straight to the battery to prevent problems with voltage drop and EMF spikes to other electronics. I would not bring this up, but sense your worried about blowing fuses any additional load could cause a problem. At this time just add a note to your as-built of the possible interaction between circuits.

    Speaking of as-built if you want to save yourself time and money the more details the as-built has the more money you will save.

    As always it only a suggestion.

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