Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Double plating hulls

  1. #1
    New member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3

    Default Double plating hulls

    I have a new 18' Seaark 72" bottom mod v tunnel hull that is 1/8" thickness. I want to toughen up the bottom of hull. I plan to add another 1/8" 5086 aluminum sheet to bottom and then plug weld 1/2" uhmw to that before I attach the motor. Feasible ? I know its alot of work, but have my own aluminum mig welder and work for free. Why not start with a 1/4 " hull boat? Long story, but this is what I got to work with. My calculations are tha that I would add 250 lbs of material. The motor is a 115/80 4 stroke jet. The attached picture is of hull just like mine. It has 7 strakes front to rear! My questions are, would it be better to add flat aluminum sheet between strakes, then add aluminum angle bar over existing strakes? Or try to match complete bottom with full sheets with use of metal bending brake? Recommend use of 3m 5200 sealer between hull and additional aluminum? How to attach uhmw over 7 vee shaped strakes? Leave uhwm off of strakes and install uhmw between strakes? I would be grateful for any or all answers. 1/8" hulls will not handle "rock rash" of Alaskan rivers.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Member Stanly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Palmer
    Posts
    954

    Default

    Boy, I don't know. LOTS of SeaArks running the rivers up here. I have a 22'. But if you're set on doing it, my vote would be to weld pieces between the strakes. But by the time you add the aluminum and the uhmw don't know how much strake you would have left...
    When the HOGS show up, somethins gonna DIE!!!
    Blood Sport
    32' Custom Wooldridge
    MMSI #: 338181573

  3. #3
    Member Sobie2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,040

    Default

    I have had two SeaArks and been thinking about the same project for years. Most of the welders I have talked to say the thin aluminum is tough to weld. I was thinking about cutting the streaks off flush, bolting on UHMW with liberal sealing, and then making new streaks with UHMW.

    When I bought my second SeaArk I wanted to get the model with the beefed up ice runners which would help a little with damage prevention; but alas the dealer didn't have one with runners.

    Skip the extra aluminum and go straight to the UHMW.

    Sobie2

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,246

    Default

    The way your wanting to reinforce the bottom will change the performance of the boat and not in a good way, also 1/8 aluminum is no match for rocks for that matter neither is unless it backed up with hull stiffeners. UHMW helped the rocks to slip over the aluminum instead of digging in, it adds very little strength.

    I would not remove the 1/8 bottom until it was destroyed by then you should have learned to slow down and not hit as many rocks. Then I would replace it with 3/16 bottom and add more hull stiffener and reinforce the transom area.

    In the meantime make your self a bottom repair kit and enjoy the boat.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Nice light weight boat like that. Run it as-is, once you start welding it will never be the same. If you plan on parking on lots of gravel bars, I would look for a boat with no strakes
    on the bottom, ie welded heavy gauge.

  6. #6
    Member fatbacks's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Interior
    Posts
    142

    Default

    Extra weight will not be worth it with that small of a motor. If you do anything, I would just do the UHMW and skip adding all the extra aluminum.

  7. #7
    New member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks guys for your comments. All good points. It gave me a lot to think about. The weight vs reward is an issue. Performance issues like turning, time taken to get on step and handling can be easily ruined. It is tempting to try it though. I think I will just add 7 inches of hull extension ( plane surface) behind transom and just go with uhmw. I have heard that adding hull extensions that stop 2" before crankshaft nut will help on step time and slower on-step speeds. Thanks guys

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    4

    Default

    You should check out Wetlands slick bottom coatings. I think this may be another good alternative to uhmw. I like the idea of hull extensions.

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    256

    Default

    I know a couple guys that added another layer just on the corners for the last 2 ft or so- that is where you are usually gonna hit hard. They push them pretty hard and they have taken a beating.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •