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Thread: Hewescraft Fishing Deck Platform Question

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    Default Hewescraft Fishing Deck

    IMG_4548.jpgWanting to replace the deck on my '04 HC 220 Searunner. Things I don't like about existing deck: weight and too easily chipped up. Anyone with ideas or direct mod experience I'd appreciate you help in advance!

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    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Pull it all up along with the rotten foam and replace it with 3/16" aluminum diamond plate. I did mine and never looked back. You are more than welcome to check mine out in Eagle River anytime.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob B View Post
    Pull it all up along with the rotten foam and replace it with 3/16" aluminum diamond plate. I did mine and never looked back. You are more than welcome to check mine out in Eagle River anytime.
    X2 for the 3/16" diamond plate! Be sure to use the pink foam board when you replace the waterlogged stuff under the floor. There is at least one thread (with pix) on this forum that you should be able to find. BTW - the foam smells way better & is alot easier to remove when it's frozen.
    2007 24ft NorthRiver OS
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    Hey Rob, did you add some type of shim under the 3/16 dp to level it up to the cab door, rear panels, fish box, etc?

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    Thanks much for the recommendation, both re: the diamond plate and using foam board. Sounds like a good plan of attack!

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    Thanks Rob B for your offer. If I find myself up north I'll message you. That diamond plate sure is a pretty penny. Any recommendations on local distributors?

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    Quote Originally Posted by timinhomer View Post
    Thanks Rob B for your offer. If I find myself up north I'll message you. That diamond plate sure is a pretty penny. Any recommendations on local distributors?
    Alaska Steel
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    When replacing a deck with 3/16 diamond plate you may need to add more supports to keep it from flexing when walking on.

    Also your boat is 11years old, aluminum and is used in salt water. This would not be a problem except you also have foam in the bottom of the hull. If the foam got wet the combination of foam and salt water could cause corrosion and eat holes in the hull. Sometime the holes look like a pin holes only to be a lot larger under the surface. Use a drill or a scribe to see how deep they are.

    I'm not saying you have a problem, it's something most people never look for when working on there boat.

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    I appreciate the caution. Nothing noticeable currently but as long as I'm in there I'll give attention to the foam condition and what may lie underneath. My boat doesn't have too much time in the water-previous owner was appreciatively meticulous and mostly captured a few long weekends a summer-but I'm putting a lot more wet hours on it since ownership. Sounds like this may be a commonly unnoticed vulnerability and I'm glad to have my eye on it now. Cheers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by timinhomer View Post
    My boat doesn't have too much time in the water-previous owner was appreciatively meticulous and mostly captured a few long weekends a summer-but I'm putting a lot more wet hours on it since ownership.
    I wish I could tell you a trailer boat has less of a problem with this type of corrosion.
    The corrosion that could effect the inside of the hull has nothing to do with time in the water, unless it keep getting saltwater in the hull. As the water evaporate it will leave a higher concentration of salt. Once the foam get wet if it can not completely dry out, this combination could cause crevice corrosion or oxygen starvation making the water turn alkaline and that is bad for aluminum.

    This also happens in freshwater just not as fast.

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    I redid the decks in my 22 Hewes this past spring. Really wanted an aluminum deck but it didn't make financial sense at the time. Ripped out all of the waterlogged foam and replaced the decks with vinyl-wrapped marine plywood (same as it came from factory).

    All told, cost about $300 and only a few hours of labor. Obviously not as tough as aluminum, but if I get 2-3 seasons out of it I'll be happy...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicken Hawk View Post
    Hey Rob, did you add some type of shim under the 3/16 dp to level it up to the cab door, rear panels, fish box, etc?
    Now sure didn't. It's not a bad transition by the door.


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    I raised my rear deck 9" and turned it into self bailing. Then made 3/16" smooth surface aluminum pans to catch the water and allow it to drain overboard. I was told the traction bumps on diamond plate wear down pretty quick from sand, then the walkway wear pattern looks like crap in a few years. That's why I went with smooth surface and plan to lay a rubber mat down for traction. Easy to replace the matts when they wear out
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    More pics Pred Control!!!!! Looks like a custom cabin?

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    Stanlys deck on Bloodsport along with a few other boats I have been on have a sprayed on bed liner type material over a smooth deck like yours. It has no down side that I have found.
    Bk
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    You can see in the corrosion photo what happens when you cover aluminum with anything that will trap moisture. Any coating, paint, spray on bed liner, spray on foam, it all fine until it gets scratched, chiped or damaged in a way that moisture gets in next to the aluminum. Then it turns acidic and corrosion begins. I removed all the foam covering the bottom of my boat during the remodel. Luckily the corrosion did not happen there but it was wet. So the boat I'm remodeling will have no permenant coverings over the AL. My rubber floor mat can be removed so it can be cleaned and dry periodically. If you want more photos of my remodel follow this link. There is way more information and photos than you will want to see.

    http://www.aluminumalloyboats.com/vi...649ce06fa1d2c5
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    Predator,
    You make a valid argument but wouldn't it have to be a piss poor application to trap the moisture under the paint or liner?
    I agree with your points on corrosion, no argument. But a properly applied paint or liner should protect and seal the undercoating.
    Many items made of aluminum are routinely covered with no corosion issues if done correctly, including lots of boat hulls pictured on this forum.
    Bk
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    Looks good!

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    I know paint and other coverings work over aluminum just fine until....it gets scratched or chipped, then right at that scratch line moisture is trapped. Then a small amount of "white powder" begins to form, then soon after a blister appears, then it keeps creeping under the paint along then scratch edge until it's a ugly mess. I know my opinions are a bit extreme but they come from the experience I've had first hand with this boat remodel project. And I am biased toward the bare aluminum look anyway. And the fact I never want I smell paint remover again! I used 9 gallons of it to get rid of that nasty, aluminum rotting, moisture trapping, paint, rubber and foam coverings!!!
    wheeew...there I'm done ranting for awhile! That's my opinion/story and I'm sticking to it

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    Quote Originally Posted by Predator Control View Post
    I know paint and other coverings work over aluminum just fine until....it gets scratched or chipped, then right at that scratch line moisture is trapped. Then a small amount of "white powder" begins to form, then soon after a blister appears, then it keeps creeping under the paint along then scratch edge until it's a ugly mess. I know my opinions are a bit extreme but they come from the experience I've had first hand with this boat remodel project. And I am biased toward the bare aluminum look anyway. And the fact I never want I smell paint remover again! I used 9 gallons of it to get rid of that nasty, aluminum rotting, moisture trapping, paint, rubber and foam coverings!!!
    wheeew...there I'm done ranting for awhile! That's my opinion/story and I'm sticking to it
    Agree.....I'm a naked aluminum guy also!
    I sure do like the coating Wooly used on Bloodsports back deck though. No slipping and quiet. It would take a lot to damage or expose the material underneath as they applied a generous coat.

    Look forward to more pics of your project.
    Bk
    BK Marine Services 232-6399
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