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Thread: Some Questions about Studs & Winter riding?

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    Member mudbuddy's Avatar
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    Default Some Questions about Studs & Winter riding?

    Got a set of Finland made studded 29" Suomi Tyres
    Gazza Extremem 294
    DSCF5899.JPG

    Put them on last night, road around the block today,
    I put 38 psi in them , in a heated garage, when I got out riding, I think they need more air.
    Tire says 36 - 65 PSI
    What's a good pressure, where the roll fairly easy & allow the tire & studs good traction?
    The paved paths along the roads are snow covered with lots of foot prints, kinda bumpy so don't want them too hard.

    Should I avoid riding on bare pavement when possible. ? (Search for snowy route)

    Are studs slick on bare pavement?

    I have the basic tire/tube & multi tool , Any other recommendations ?

    Thanks




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    I haven't had any issues with them on bare pavement they will wear quicker though, i am still riding unstudded but will be changing soon. I am not sure about air pressure for a 29er as I am full fat. I would call backcountry and ask their thoughts on it. I tend to ride underinflated most of the time. The increase in rolling resistance can be punishing sometimes.

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    Member mudbuddy's Avatar
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    "The increase in rolling resistance can be punishing sometimes."


    A good workout over less distance & Speed not as important as slipping or breaking thru.
    Thought about a fat for a couple seconds, wife would "Kill me" if I mentioned "another bike"

    Need to try the new road from Colony to Palmer anyway, might ride there & stop by the shop & see
    what they recommend, (bike shop, they'll want to sell me another bike, have to be strong LOL )

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    I hear you on the wife front, but I am down to one right now I think if I get a cyclocross I will have my bases covered. I can use it for road and gravel and the fat for everything else. Since I got the fatbike I haven't wanted anything else on trails.

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    Saw 2 sets of fat bike tracks on the trail along the Parks.
    Just gonna have to make do,
    watch CL this summer
    Maybe pick one up on a good deal, save some $$

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    Quote Originally Posted by FloorGuy View Post
    down to one right now I think if I get a cyclocross I will have my bases covered. I can use it for road and gravel and the fat for everything else.
    Was a couple on Anch CL earlier this year.
    Saw couple of Ti frames on Seattle CL reasonable, not sure the size.

    Late Summer, had Backcountry make a disc, flatbar road/gravel grinder,
    Really liking it for paved & gravel roads , just need more riding time,
    Did make it to the top of Hatcher from the Palmer side,
    then road closed a week later.
    Next year , tops on the ride list is to go over the top & to Willow.

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    Nice, I have been checking CL frequently never really look outside for anything though.

    For fat bikes AK bike clinic is wasilla has some lower priced fatbikes. The one in the pic of the river is an SE f@e comes in around 1k that's about as cheap as you will find them new. Sports authority has mongoose Vincents right now somewhere in the $500 range but would need upgrades right off the bat.

    I started with a mongoose dolomite at wally world it got me out there but it wasn't meant to leave pavement

    A buddy did the hatchers pass epic on his fat bike with 27.5+ wheelset on goes from backcountry over the pass down the willow side and back around to backcountry. He is a much stronger rider than I am. It is on my list along with racing in the fireweed.

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    I think you are way overinflated. I would be running maybe 30psi max. Less pressure will increase traction and make the ride smoother. Really, the old thought that lower PSI equates to high rolling resistance isn't necessarily true these days. There could be some, but you gain a lot in efficiency since the softer tires absorb the small vibrations from the surface. Most racers have been going with wider, softer tires for their race bikes (road, mountain, and snow). Definitely contrary to the old way of thinking, but it proves out in the long run most of the time.

    I wouldn't worry about wearing the studs down on the pavement. You aren't putting nearly enough pressure/force on them to wear them down unless you are riding thousands of miles. It could be somewhat slicker on pavement, but usually not a problem. Watch for smooth concrete though, that can be really bad with studs.

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    If you are deflating for riding on snow there will be a huge increase in rolling resistance when you are back on pavement especially on a fatbike. 5psi just doesn't roll like 12-15psi does.

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    Leave the bike outside overnight, then check the pressure and air it to around 35psi. Those little tubes can have a major drop in pressure when you go from a 70* garage to 30* outside temp.

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    Thanks
    Looking to ride, but not when it's this cold.
    Want it to be fun , not brutal LOL
    2 here this AM,

    Got in fairly good biking shape thru Summer
    & Now with the studs,
    was hoping to try to maintain some of it thru Winter. Want to try the Epic.

    An inside trainer is not gonna happen, so I plan to ride a 10 - 20 mile loop when temps permit.
    Need to find a route using PWH/Trunk/ Parks non-motorized paths for winter riding.
    Guess it don't need to be a loop, but prefer loops where the path is on the R side of the roads. I
    get nervous going against the flow of traffic on the paths.

    Not sure what's open for riding with my mt bike w/studs,
    First year I ever wanted or even thought about riding in the winter
    Personally, I think I'm nuts LOL !

    Can get to the PWH or Blue Lupine to Trunk paths from home.
    11 mile loop or ride it twice for 20 mi

    11 mi BL:SM:PWH:Trnk loop.jpg

    Palmer & back is an option too


    I think for now, 20 is about my minimum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ak_cowboy View Post
    Leave the bike outside overnight, then check the pressure and air it to around 35psi. Those little tubes can have a major drop in pressure when you go from a 70* garage to 30* outside temp.

    Yea, good idea
    Noticed on the 2 mile test ride, tires looked l near flat coming back.
    Harder to pedal too.
    Makes sense, was the temp drop .

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by FloorGuy View Post
    If you are deflating for riding on snow there will be a huge increase in rolling resistance when you are back on pavement especially on a fatbike. 5psi just doesn't roll like 12-15psi does.
    Yeah, that's a bit more drastic of a pressure difference and also talking about a fat bike verses a mountain bike. Yes, you will see noticeable differences with that kind of pressure difference. With a drop from the high 30's to the low 30's in PSI, you will not notice much rolling resistance change, much of which will be offset by a smoother ride and the added aspect of better traction on slick surfaces (lower pressure = more tire and more studs on the ground at a time to grip). Rolling on pavement you won't have much need for softer tires absorbing the small bumps like you would on a dirt road in the summer, but if you are on a fair amount of packed snow along the trail, it will really add up.

    An interesting example was the Frosty Bottom race a number of years ago. The trail was rock hard, solid ice for the most part. A number of people assumed the higher pressures you could run on a mountain bike or cross bike would make them a lot faster than the fat bikes with the wider, less aerodynamic wheels and lower pressures. It turned out that those running the higher pressures ended up way behind at the end due to just getting worn out with all the extra jarring. Again, this is on a trail that was likely rougher than what you are looking at on a paved pathway, so not necessarily a perfect comparison to your plan.

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    You could always make a big figure 8 Taking trunk to Bogard down Bogard to Palmer around the the PW and back up

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    Quote Originally Posted by FloorGuy View Post
    You could always make a big figure 8 Taking trunk to Bogard down Bogard to Palmer around the the PW and back up
    Oh yea,
    the new road from Colony to Plamer has a path on the S side,
    I rode it to Palmer before it was paved all the way & no street signs up.
    It's called Bogard ? Not on google maps yet.
    That should be doable
    Will have to check it out, (when it gets a bit warmer )

    Thought about taking the atv out & draging the trial
    with a chain link fence drag to level/smooth it out some.

    Old bones like smooth LOL

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    Those Nokian Extreme's are awesome tires. On rink ice you can lean far enough to get pedal strikes. I adjust pressure by feel for conditions, and agree that lower is usually better. For really soft trail conditions you can run them all the way down to virtually zero, but for running the lower pressures you need to glue the bead (one side only!) to the rim with a little Barge cement to prevent rotational slippage. By my experience, the carbide pins give almost as positive traction on bare surfaces as on ice. I've never feared running them on any surface, and you'll have your work cut out for you trying to wear them out; I don't think it's possible.
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    Was driving back from Palmer
    State PU w/Plow was plowing the Palmer Wasilla Hwy paved path,
    Bogard from Colony to Palmer trail is snow free
    Church & Spruce have been plowed.
    Trail going along Wasilla Fishhook to Seldon plowed
    Forgot to look at the Trunk trail, probably plowed too.

    If it warms up, looks like I might get some miles in

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    Paths along the Parks plowed too, all the way to Big Lake rd. anyway

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    Default 14 mile ride today

    Quote Originally Posted by mudbuddy View Post
    Paths along the Parks plowed too, all the way to Big Lake rd. anyway
    Not plowed Now, plowed over would be more correct!

    New to riding on snow, so I got a few surprises,
    Don't turn when you hit a 3" drift.
    Riding in slushy stuff will ice up the derailleurs, carry something to lightly tap them with
    Wear layers that are easy to remove & add. Started was just right, got warm & started to sweat, removed a couple layers & the temp started dropping so needed to add a layer. (need an outside layer with windstop on the front of chest & arms & breathable on the back side.)
    Warm gloves will be needed.
    Speed is way slower & probably not gonna cover anywhere near the distance like when summer riding.
    Work different muscles riding slow,
    there's no or very little coasting down hills

    Rode the paths 14 mile , studs worked well, 38 psi inside the shop.
    Was gonna ride to Palmer & back but felt like I was riding up hill every mile.
    14 miles was a good work out, almost a 2 hour ride

    1st Pic from Trunk Rd between PWH & the Parks,
    10% look like this:
    DSCF5966.jpg

    2nd pic is between Bogard (near the round-a-bout) & PWH
    Some spots 3" or so.
    Ridable but low gear & pretty slow.
    90% looked like this:
    DSCF5965.jpg

    Worst trail was along Blue Lupine between Trunk & the Seward M
    Rode the shoulder of the SM from Sears to PWH path

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    Supporting Member iofthetaiga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudbuddy View Post
    Warm gloves will be needed.
    Pogies, man; you need Pogies!
    ...he who knows nothing is nearer to truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods & errors. ~Thomas Jefferson
    I would rather have a mind opened by wonder than one closed by belief. ~Gerry Spence
    The last thing Alaska needs is another bigot. ~member Catch It
    #Resist

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