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Thread: Stainless Steel Impellers?

  1. #1

    Default Stainless Steel Impellers?

    So I thought I wanted a stainless steel 4 blade impeller to improve performance on my 50/35 Honda outboard jet. I bought one at an impeller shop in Anchorage for nearly $400 and tried to install it. I was having problems getting the thing to clearance out at .030 all the way around the impeller. (by the way I had read somewhere that you could set clearance at .015 with a stainless impeller, it that wrong?) It seemed out of round? I bought a new liner thinking that it was the problem. Still wouldn't clearance out properly even with no shims behind it! A close look showed that it did not have the same taper as the liner. Lots of clearance at the leading edge, and tight at the back. I took the impeller back and traded for another one. Same problem. Got my money back and went to a different shop and ordered a new one. I think I was getting used impellers that had been trimmed up on a lathe and done so at the wrong angle then sold for new? Anybody have two cents to throw in on this one?
    otter

  2. #2
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    Default

    Are you running the sleeve?

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    Go to www.outboardjets.com and they will have a bunch of information. To make a long story short you won't get much, if any, more performance with a SS impeller out of that motor. You will get less wear, that is about it.

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    Default

    I ment to say, are you running your old sleeve/liner/wear ring.

    Guess I waited too long to edit it.

  5. #5

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    No, I bought a new sleeve after the first try with the ss impeller thinking that the sleeve was the problem. I guess my main question is, should the impeller be exactly the same "taper" as the sleeve. Both of the impellers that the Anchorage shop sold to me had more taper than the new sleeve; that is there was more than .050 clearance at the leading edge and I couldn't get a .025 feeler gauge through the back of the impeller/sleeve. Seems to me the impeller and sleeve should be the same taper exactly.

    Yukon writes:
    "To make a long story short you won't get much, if any, more performance with a SS impeller out of that motor. You will get less wear, that is about it."
    I read that in the website, but I do wonder why 4 blades wouldn't offer more performance?

    Last question: Can you have less clearance, say .015 with the stainles steel impeller, or should it stay at around .030?

    Thanks,
    otter

  6. #6
    Member wolfkiller's Avatar
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    Default re

    Yukon writes:
    "To make a long story short you won't get much, if any, more performance with a SS impeller out of that motor. You will get less wear, that is about it."
    I read that in the website, but I do wonder why 4 blades wouldn't offer more performance?

    Last question: Can you have less clearance, say .015 with the stainles steel impeller, or should it stay at around .030?

    I run the same motor on a 16 foot by 56" allweld. I run a stainless 4 blade at a tight .015. If you shim it too tight you will know it right away. Your motor will seize as soon as you get in the main channel of the tannana and you will have to take it apart and re shim it standing in the water (trust me). The 4 blade seemed to slightly improve hole shot. It might have cost me a little top speed 1-3 mph. I sure is tough though. I wore my aluminum to the point it needed sharpened in about a month of boating 3 times a week. The stainless has ben in for 5 months of hard boating in very shallow rivers and still looks like new.
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