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Thread: Trolling @ 60 fathoms!

  1. #1
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    Default Trolling @ 60 fathoms!

    Anyone else figured out that you can convert your pot puller to a herking downrigger? This was my first year and im happy with the effort. Easily trolling at close to 400 ft, i caught a few kings this season and am very excited about next year. I believe my current set up is good to roughly 600 ft!

    Couple new weights pictured, 22 and 26 lb. The big one is ready for powder coat, the other one not far behind.

    Mike
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    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
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    What kind of line are you hanging those on? My puller won't grab anything smaller than 3/8 inch line, and the drag/belly on that would be extreme.

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    You're exactly right, thats why im using J.B hollow braid, 500 lb! At 300 ft with a 22 lb weight the blowback is less than 10 deg.

    Mike

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    Member Stanly's Avatar
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    Very interesting, what are you targeting at those depths besideds kings?
    When the HOGS show up, somethins gonna DIE!!!
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    Back in the day (yeah, way back) when I crewed on a commercial troller off the west coast, we frequently trolled at 80-90 fathoms (480'-540') for spring kings. But that was with lots more weight, wire, fixed gear and large plugs. Nice to see ways to do it from smaller boats with lighter weight.

    Are you using conventional downrigger releases for the line to your rods? I'm betting there's lots more pull on the rod line.

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    027.jpgI spent last winter researching this idea and a lot of info was gleaned from commercial troll sites. Ball size, wire diameter, blowback etc. Then I added the thoughts coming from sport articles and started in. The Spectra is .0135 smaller than the smallest troll wire, my weights are more hydrodynamic than balls and there's no fixed gear saving the one release. Ive used Cannon off shore's and Scotty's which I prefer due to less line abrasion. I run 50 lb braid on the rod spliced into 10 ft of 100 lb. mono ahead of the flasher. This works a lot better in a pinch type release.

    The spool is quick on and off and holds 900 ft of the Spectra. I had to do a little rewiring to get the hauler to run both ways but other than that it is all pretty simple. I believe ANY hauler could be fitted with a similar spool. As to blowback, this photo is us trolling at 300 ft, get your protractor out and check, it's real minimum! So much so that the weight shows on the sonar which is cool, mark fish, let the gear down to um and drag er thru!

    There's a ton of info your not getting in this first preview but the basics might inspire someone else!

    Mike

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    Nice work. Lots of kings deep, no doubt.

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    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Do you have closer pix of the spool assembly and also of the swinging davit?

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    Thanks,

    Yes I have lots of pictures; I built this stuff. Tell me what you're thinking.

    Mike

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    Just a suggestion - I would try dragging a 20 to 26-pound piece of [2-inch diameter] stainless steel shaft material for a weight and see if your fishing is just as successful. I suggest "stainless" for less chance of rust stains on your deck. This is the same type of weight technology that is/was used to "dingle bar" [commercially troll] for lingcod from SE Alaska to California. Lead cannonballs tend to hang up in rocks but hard shaft stock generally bounces over rocks. To be successful in using the dingle bar system you have to fish right up in the rock-piles and structure to collect lingcod (and this also true for feeder Kings during the winter months). I have trolled commercially for salmon for a long time - sometimes as deep as 70 fathoms with 4 wires deployed. I know the response-time for reacting to avoid a hang-up in 50+ fathoms of water can cost you in lost gear. By using a shaft that has been bent slightly to bounce through [and over] rough and sticky ground you may be able to fish even more productive areas with less chance of gear loss.

  11. #11

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    What speed are you trolling at (both GPS & SOG)?
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    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    I am interested in the crane arm now. How do you raise it up and down?

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    Thanks guys,

    I've used Stainless weights on the downriggers, fully machined pretty things! They take more time to make than shell weights (poured full of lead) and in this weight range they get pretty big diameter wise, which translates into blowback. The ideal material for a dingle bar set up would be DenseAlloy which is 95 percent tungsten and twice as heavy as steel! An 1 1/4 square bar 12 inches long weighs 24 lbs. But at $1200 per, it aint happening.

    The davit is purely manual. I have three pin locations to lock it at different heights and it will rotate 360. Remember this is my shrimping set up adapted to troll. If a fellow was inclined, a small cylinder could be applied to the underside for power up and down; but im on a 25 ft boat and the goal was "fit for purpose and stronger than hell without too much weight.

    If your truly interested look back thru my stuff at one time there was quite a bit on this system, when I built it all. If you cant find it P.M me and i'll give you more pictures than you possibly want!

    Speed is something I'm working on, I try to fish into the current or wind and can get down to .5 knot but typically an average speed is 2.0 to 2.5. At that speed I'm still using the 150 due to greater steering control. The kicker isn't very accurate at a creep.

    Mike

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