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Thread: Fuel injector cleaner on DFI Motors

  1. #1
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    Default Fuel injector cleaner on DFI Motors

    Saw some old threads with a little on this but would like to get some more current feedback on using additives or whatnot to restore engine performance. ANyo0ne use fuel injector cleaner/additives? Brand? Reasoning? What was the result?

    I'm dealing w/ a Tohatsu TLDI 50 DFI motor and has run great for years,but I feel the performance is dropping off slightly, runs a little rough at idle intermittently despite newer plugs and a fuel filter change.

    Thanks

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    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    You are in luck! I used to run that very motor. What year is it? I had a 2001 and at one point the factory gave me new injectors. Also remember that the motor has a "push the key in" toggle between 3 low idle speeds. If you are running a jet you could have a loose impeller and those create a rough idle feeling if they need to be shimmed while idling. Other issues could be you may have old and corroded batter cable, that creates hard a hard starting motor and a rough idle also (also your batter terminals may smoke). Running injector cleaner or SeaFoam through the fuel system could help too. Lastly you can reset the computer with the Throttle Position Sensor I forget the procedure but it is telling the motor when you are at low and high. It is rare that you need to do so and those TPS don't really go bad much, but that could be a factor also.

    Sobie2

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    Here's the original Dunks’s Seafoam method:

    This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Optimax and even 4 strokes...

    First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3 gal red Tempos works great or an empty gal milk jug will also work, but might be a bit messier..
    I use Seafoam over the OEM stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Merc Power Tune because in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12hours. Who's got time for that?? Seafoam you can buy from NAPA, CarQuest or other auto stores. Seafoam works in 15 mins.
    You'll need 3/4 gal of gasoline and one 16oz can of seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are premixing in a carbed engine. Use about 3 ft piece offuel hose off the little tank. You connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose off the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank on to that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If you have an engine that has fuel plug then you need a fuel plug on the little tanks hose.
    Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she get loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 mins in the dock or just cruising around under 2500. Then shut it down and let it sit for 15 mins. Restart the engine, the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 mins. If she smokes after the second time do it again, but I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. The gallon mix should be enough to do this 3 times. You don't need any wide open throttle, you don't need to change the plugs. If it's cleaning the combustion chambers it's also cleaning the plugs, but every 50-60hrs is good time to change plugs in most engines.
    I cleaned a antique evinrude one time that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the mix through it. Seafoam has been around since the 30's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards.
    You guys with the 4 strokes think you are immune from this? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they will carbon up. I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke.
    Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2 stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne.
    For those guys that like to do the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure. Says right on the can Oxygen Sensor Safe, for you Yam guys. After that if your engine maunf recommends a daily additive treatment then do that in the mean time, but all 2 stroke outboard need decarboned every 50-60hrs. If I owned a 4 stroke I would do it the same. Once you are set up with the tank and hose the Seafoam is only 5-6 bucks can. It to easy not to do it.

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    Just curious...would using seafoam on a regular basis such as every other tank fill up keep the system cleaned out?

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    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    Nah, I only use SeaFoam if problems come up or I buy a used boat or motor. What I do use is the blue colored Marine Stabil product (for marine fuel and plus ethanol protectant) in every tank unless I know I am going to burn up that tank over the weekend.

    Sobie2

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    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Marvels Mystery oil is pretty darn amazing too. Works on just about any kind of motor.
    27' Wooldridge Super Sport Offshore Pilothouse PRIME TIME!
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    Thanks for the ideas. I've replaced the impeller and sleeve, checked my battery contacts, and have just started a round of seafoam engine treatment. If the fuel treatment doesn't do the trick I'll plan on trying the "Dunk's" method.

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