Results 1 to 17 of 17

Thread: Lyman Great Plains Rifle

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default Lyman Great Plains Rifle

    After debating this all summer I'm starting to decide that the Lyman Great Plains Rifle in caplock might fit the bill for me. I find both the looks and price attractive: http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...4l5mrfec76i943

    It seems the rate of twist would designate it a lead ball shooter. Any experiences/ opinions on a 54 cal ball on Moose? Thanks...Louis
    Louis Knapp

  2. #2

    Default

    You've pegged my favorite factory rifle! The 1:66 twist on the barrel is in fact a round ball barrel, and pretty cranky about conicals. You can get a drop-in Hunter barrel that's 1:32 if you want to shoot conicals well. You can also drop in a 50 cal barrel if you're so inclined.

    Haven't shot a moose with a 54 RB, but it's the caliber of choice for most of the traditional hunters I know. My 54 has clanked a bunch of deer and one elk, and kills were quick.

    Coupla things on the GPR. Lyman's barrels generally have sharp rifling and crowns when new, to the point that they tend to cut patches and blow accuracy for a while. It takes 100-200 shots to smooth things out and let the rifle really settle in to its great accuracy potential. Recover your fired patches and look at them for cuts if your accuracy isn't what you want.

    I prefer "shooting mine in" to take care of that, simply using it as an opportunity for lots of shooting practice. Other guys get impatient, screw a 50 cal jag onto their cleaning rod, and go to work with a small square of green Scotch kitchen cleaning pad for a couple hundred strokes to take care of the sharp rifling. I do intercede with the sharp crown, with a small piece of 320 or 400 sandpaper or emery cloth. Lay it over the muzzle, press down with the ball of your thumb, and rotate half a dozen or dozen times. Done.

    Every rifle is different, but mine gets it's best accuracy with 90 grains of 3f Goex (or Pyrodex P) or 100 grains of 2f Goex (or Pyrodex RS), a .530 ball and .018" pillow ticking patch lubed with a grease-type lube. My lube of choice is the Mink Oil Tallow from Track of the Wolf.

    There's some trigger work that needs to be done, but that can wait.

  3. #3

    Default

    Need to add a BTW-

    CCI caps aren't a good match with the Lyman factory nipples. You'll get some misfires. Either switch to Remington caps or drop in a new nipple (6-.75mm thread). They're available from Track of the Wolf and lots of other sources.

  4. #4
    Member jdb3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Petersburg, Alaska
    Posts
    466

    Default

    My hunting partner hunts pretty much exclusively with a 54 cal round ball. We have lost count on the number of deer he has killed, and yes the round ball does very well against moose. He has also killed quite a number of caribou with it too. I too like the Lyman Great Plains and have owned one for years. Mine will group in a cloverleaf at 100 yards with 90 grains of FFG and a 54 cal round ball. Jim

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default

    Thanks, guys for the help! BrownBear, I really appreciate how generously you've shared your substantial knowledge on muzzleloaders on this forum. It's good to have you here for newbies like myself, I'm sure I'll be picking your brain more in the near future....anyway, decision made finally and order placed. I just hope we have some more reasonable weather left in the Interior before cold sets in to get a lot of shooting in when the Great Plains rifle gets here...Louis
    Louis Knapp

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasilla
    Posts
    81

    Default

    I second that the Great Plains Hunter is my favorite factory smoke pole, extremely accurate with LOTS of snort! Ive got the faster 1 in 32 barrel and can also hold incredibly tight groups using the 425 grain bullets made by Hornady. You'll be very happy with your decision, its not just another pretty face!

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Eureka MT
    Posts
    3,048

    Default

    I have a CVA in 54 and found that you can shoot 50 cal round balls very well from the 54 barrel by dropping the 50cal ball in a 28ga shotgun wad, grease it a bit and load. Doing this you can have both 50 and 54cal for the price of a bag of 28ga wads.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default

    I got my Great Plains rifle today. Looks real nice. I am having some assembly issues, however. I can't seem to get the rear wedge pin to line up. Anyone have any trouble with that? I don't want to file away too much of the escutcheon (as per the instructions) or force anything. Thanks!
    Louis Knapp

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default

    Nevermind...I fiddled with it a little more and things came together.
    Louis Knapp

  10. #10

    Default

    Yeah. Tolerances are pretty tight, especially when new. I've had a couple that didn't seem to want to drop the barrel all the way down on first installation. A little experimenting and careful alignment finally let it happen. After a few times, it goes away.

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default

    Every rifle is different, but mine gets it's best accuracy with 90 grains of 3f Goex (or Pyrodex P) or 100 grains of 2f Goex (or Pyrodex RS), a .530 ball and .018" pillow ticking patch lubed with a grease-type lube. My lube of choice is the Mink Oil Tallow from Track of the Wolf.

    There's some trigger work that needs to be done, but that can wait.[/QUOTE]
    Is .18 standard for the pillow ticking patches? I just picked up some pillow ticking patches at Sportsmans just labeled "5186" They were the next size up (diameter) from the patches for up to .45 caliber but there were no thickness dimensions listed. I guess I could go mic them. Thanks.
    Louis Knapp

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    Is .18 standard for the pillow ticking patches? I just picked up some pillow ticking patches at Sportsmans just labeled "5186" They were the next size up (diameter) from the patches for up to .45 caliber but there were no thickness dimensions listed. I guess I could go mic them. Thanks.
    There's a little variance in thickness now, especially since Walmart started pressuring suppliers to turn out everything cheaper. It used to be that .018" was pretty standard, but I've seen it as thin as .015". Miking is a good idea. I do it by folding to make three layers, closing the mike tight on the three layers, then dividing by 3 to get a quick "average.

    You might want to just go to the fabric store with your mike, check the thickness of some (be sure it's pure cotton) and get a yard of the stuff that's right for you. Back home toss it in the washer next time you do a load of laundry with soap, then run it through the dryer. The new stuff has "sizing" on it that's like starch, making it stiffer and really tough to get it to pick up lube. Once dry, rip it into 1 1/2" strips, then cut those into 1 1/2" lengths.

    Why all the trouble? Cuzz from that single square yard you get 576 patches! And you probably haven't spent any more than you laid down at SW for a single pack.

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default

    Thanks! I did check the store bought patches with the mic folded as you recommended. It looks like they might at least be close to .018. I also looked at them through a magnifying glass edge on next to a scrap of .020 aircraft aluminum and they looked very close to the same thickness. I picked up the yard of pillow ticking at the fabric store. You certainly can get a lot more bang for the buck cutting your own patches.

    One more question: I couldn't find a .54 caliber bore brush here in Fairbanks. Would a 28 gauge brush work? (if I could find one of those here) It appears a 20 gauge brush might squeeze into the bore but don't feel confident about being able to pull it back out again. I suppose a guy could get an oversize brush and hone it down a bit.
    Louis Knapp

  14. #14

    Default

    A 28 gauge will work fine, but you REALLY have to watch it with bore brushes in muzzleloaders. They'll jam when you push them down and start to pull them back out as the bristles try to change directions. I've quit using them, but before that learned that every single time you go to pull one back out, you first have to twist the rod to lay the bristles over a little before they try to change direction. More than one muzzleloader has been left in a pickle when the brush jams and I guy pulls hard enough to pull the brush off the end of the rod. Not pretty.

    I just use a button-style cleaning jag with my cleaning patch over it.

    BTW- I eventually run out of old tshirts for cleaning patches and resort to another trip to the fabric store for a yard or two of cheap cotton flannel to cut my own. Savings are as good or better as buying your shooting patch material there.

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    A 28 gauge will work fine, but you REALLY have to watch it with bore brushes in muzzleloaders. They'll jam when you push them down and start to pull them back out as the bristles try to change directions. I've quit using them, but before that learned that every single time you go to pull one back out, you first have to twist the rod to lay the bristles over a little before they try to change direction. More than one muzzleloader has been left in a pickle when the brush jams and I guy pulls hard enough to pull the brush off the end of the rod. Not pretty.

    I just use a button-style cleaning jag with my cleaning patch over it.

    BTW- I eventually run out of old tshirts for cleaning patches and resort to another trip to the fabric store for a yard or two of cheap cotton flannel to cut my own. Savings are as good or better as buying your shooting patch material there.
    Oh Boy! I have gotten 2 bore brushes stuck in muzzleloaders! Makes a feller say words that he wouldn't otherwise use. I got them both out by putting about 10 grains of powder down the nipple hole and then screwing in the nipple, Then shove the brush in as far as it will go, unscrew the ramrod from the brush(you can shoot the ramrod off into the wild blue yonder iffen ya want but I wouldn't)place a cap on the nipple and shoot it skyward.

    I use only jags now too!

    My wife had several flannel bed sheets with matching pillow cases that we got back in 1976 when we got hitched. Once she decided she didn't like them and the sentimental crap wore off I cut them into cleaning patches. They lasted a long time! I can remember that I had dents in my finger from running the scissors.

  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks
    Posts
    520

    Default

    I did find a .54 cal brush yesterday. It came with a nice big brass cleaning rod that Sportsmans sold. I did run it up and down the bore a couple times (as per recommended to get the preservative gunk out) without any issues but I can see how that could turn into a snafu if it did get stuck. Funny you mentioned the flannel sheets, my wife just decided to replace some yesterday. Does it hurt anything if they're dyed? What dimension of cleaning patch do you find works best for a .54?
    Louis Knapp

  17. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    Funny you mentioned the flannel sheets, my wife just decided to replace some yesterday. Does it hurt anything if they're dyed? What dimension of cleaning patch do you find works best for a .54?
    Not in the least. I bought a whole bolt of it when our local Walmart closed their fabric department. Buck a yard. Covered with penguins! I cut them 2" x 2".

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •