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Thread: Bedding a Mauser Action

  1. #1
    Member Yukoner's Avatar
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    Default Bedding a Mauser Action

    So I have a Voere that I want to bed, but have never bedded a Mauser based action before. The Voere is based on a Mauser, but has a tang safety.
    Any advice? Should one bed the rear of the action at all, or just the recoil block area?
    Thanks
    Never wrestle with a pig.
    you both get dirty;
    the Pig likes it.

  2. #2

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    I bed the recoil block and about one or two inches forward as the first step. Then after that cures, I bed the rear of the receiver, as a second step, this is mostly just drilling out the rear screw hole and bedding same, not large areas of the rear part of the receiver. The objective is to create an environment, where-in you are "NOT" Torquing the receiver and binding the bolt, by excessively tightening the rear screw, which should be just "Snug".

  3. #3
    Member Yukoner's Avatar
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    On the Voere action (and having not had another Mauser based action! I have no other basis for comparison) there is a ferrel for the rear bolt from the trigger base to the action, so besides pillar bedding it, there really isn't anywhere that I can see where one could build up any sort of bed. The tang safety really takes up space. Maybe all that is required is to bed the recoil lug and area around it.
    Some web sources speak of a bar in the stock that mates against the rear of the recoil lug, but there is no such bar on this rifle, nor in any other Voere that I found images of on the web. Mauser's are a bit of mystery for me, hence the questions.
    cheers
    Never wrestle with a pig.
    you both get dirty;
    the Pig likes it.

  4. #4
    Member GD Yankee's Avatar
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    Is your Voere really a Mauser type action? Is there a recoil shoulder/block which is part of the front screw? The current CZ550 and the Ruger M77 are "mauser" actions, but under the wood line they have quite a few differences from a M98.

    I'd follow AGL's advice - works for most rifles.

  5. #5
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    Default Bedding your mauser

    I bed both front and back at the same time. I use headless screws and use a C-clamp on a bridge type mount with a block on the lower part of the stock-- without the magazine in place. This creates a stress free bedding job and works. You can also bed the first 1' or all of the barrel. On high quality barrels, I only bed the first .5" and float the rest. On factory quality barrels, FL bed it all. JMO.. J.

  6. #6
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Bed the entire action and 1/2 to 1 inch onto the barrel. Like OldRgr says make up some headless screws and clamp it in all at once. I don't like doing the action/barrel bedding in parts because it's far to easy to bed one part taller than the other that way. I fill the magazine well and trigger pocket with insolation foam board (the blue stuff) to the bottom of the action cuts then plug the little holes around that with clay.

    After the stuff dries I pop the action out (I use Hornady One Shot on the action so it will come out, wax works well to but don't forget and glue the thing tight) then cut away the magazine and trigger holes so everything fits back in well. Now I flip it all over and bed the bottom metal also, this can be full length or maybe only around the screws depending on what it looks like under there.

    If well bedded the screws will come tight all at once, no drawing things together but all at once feel like they bottom out. If properly bedded it doesn't matter much how loose or tight the screws are. I clamp a magnetic base indicator holder on the barrel with the needle on the fore end then loosen and tighten the screws to see in the barrel to stock relationship changes from the screws, it should not budge. You can place your thumb on the for end touching the barrel and play with the screws too, it's not as sensitive as an indicator but will still tell you a lot.

    Now shoot it and see what it does . . . then fold a business card and place under the barrel at the fore end and shoot some more. If it likes that card in there then back to the shop with it. Take the card you used at the range and place it about an inch from the for end, pour some bedding in that inch and bolt the action back into the stock. The card now sets the thickness of the fore end bedding, the amount of up-pressure you get. Remove the card, dress bedding and admire your work. I find that smaller calibers usually like up-pressure and large calibers ether like to be free or don't care ether way.
    Andy
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