Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: Offering skull whitening services for DIY'ers.

  1. #1
    Member JuliW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,189

    Default Offering skull whitening services for DIY'ers.

    I will be offering skull whitening services starting this year. Bring me your cleaned and degreased skull, and I will put it in peroxide for you. This is industrial strength peroxide, expensive to purchase for whitening just one skull. But, it does a better job than simple white or low volume peroxides, by far.

    Call the shop or cell for specifics. I expect it will cost about $35 for a black bear and $45 for a brown/grizzly.

    357-7847
    715-4112
    Taxidermy IS art!
    www.alaskawildliferugs.com
    Your mount is more than a trophy, it's a memory. Relive The Memory!

  2. #2
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Big Lake
    Posts
    8,452

    Default

    Love the peroxide!! Don't put metal in it....lol
    Www.blackriverhunting.com
    Master guide 212

  3. #3
    Member JuliW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,189

    Default

    it is definitely a chemical you have to respect. You have to be aware of all the different reactions it has with other materials.
    Taxidermy IS art!
    www.alaskawildliferugs.com
    Your mount is more than a trophy, it's a memory. Relive The Memory!

  4. #4
    Member dieNqvrs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    486

    Default

    Skulls need to be thoroughly degreased prior to peroxide to be of much value. Otherwise the skull will still be dingy yellow where the grease is and stark white where no grease.

  5. #5
    Member iusckeeper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Eagle River
    Posts
    374

    Default

    Do you use volume 40 or 50? and does it matter if its the liquid or creme? Finally, I have heard conflicting views of submerged length of time... and that the peroxide can actually "eat" the bone... but I'm not sure I believe that. How long do you submerge?

  6. #6
    Member JuliW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,189

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iusckeeper View Post
    Do you use volume 40 or 50? and does it matter if its the liquid or creme? Finally, I have heard conflicting views of submerged length of time... and that the peroxide can actually "eat" the bone... but I'm not sure I believe that. How long do you submerge?
    Hydrogen peroxide is identified in strength two different ways. By volume and percent. Volume 40 is 12% peroxide, I believe. I am using 30%. At 12%, you can probably leave for several days. I leave in mine for a day at a time, checking and re-submerging as needed.
    At 50% or higher, yes, I believe it would eventually eat bone. I don't plan on trying though. It is extremely dangerous at that concentration, and I don't recommend for folks to buy 5 gal for the sake of doing one or two skulls. That is why I am offering this service.

    dieNqvrs is also correct. The skulls MUST be completely degreased for peroxide to be truly effective over the long term.
    Taxidermy IS art!
    www.alaskawildliferugs.com
    Your mount is more than a trophy, it's a memory. Relive The Memory!

  7. #7
    Member BRWNBR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Big Lake
    Posts
    8,452

    Default

    I have skulls from 13 years ago that i decreased after peroxide that look great. Way better than my beetled skulls. Deer and bear skulls, beaver otter and fox as well.
    Www.blackriverhunting.com
    Master guide 212

  8. #8
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, AK.
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    Soak in gas for a week or two to degrease.
    Regular old 87 octane in a 5 gall bucket. Some use white gas, but it costs more .

    Lately we have been skipping the whitening process. Prefer the teeth to have color and natural bone look. Thats personal preference though! Done plenty in the past that we whitened but its one more step in the process.

    Don't forget th easest way to clean a skull is drop it in a shrimp pot in a lice laden area, couple days and its done. 2nd would be to macerate in a bucket of soapy water, just takes longer.
    Bk
    Bk

  9. #9
    Member SkinnyD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    20B
    Posts
    1,379

    Default

    As I understand it, there are three major steps to cleaning a skull. Juli is only offering the third step, correct? The skull must still be cleaned (beetles, masceration, boiling, etc.) and then degreased (by whatever means) before whitening.
    Passing up shots on mergansers since 1992.


  10. #10
    Member JuliW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,189

    Default

    That is correct. Just the third step (for those that want their skull whitened). I also clean skulls from start to finish. $200 for black bear, $250 for brown/grizzly. If you bring you skull to me to whiten, I will not seal it, or put teeth back in (though I will make sure you get all the teeth back). What I am offering is simply for folks to have a place to whiten their skull, once they have cleaned and degreased it.
    Taxidermy IS art!
    www.alaskawildliferugs.com
    Your mount is more than a trophy, it's a memory. Relive The Memory!

  11. #11
    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, AK.
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    Awful nice of you Julie. Pretty good deal too!
    Bk

  12. #12
    Member 4merguide's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
    Posts
    9,749

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JuliW View Post
    That is correct. Just the third step (for those that want their skull whitened). I also clean skulls from start to finish. $200 for black bear, $250 for brown/grizzly. If you bring you skull to me to whiten, I will not seal it, or put teeth back in (though I will make sure you get all the teeth back). What I am offering is simply for folks to have a place to whiten their skull, once they have cleaned and degreased it.
    Juli.....how do you personally recommend to clean and degrease...???
    Sheep hunting...... the pain goes away, but the stupidity remains...!!!

  13. #13

    Default

    You are a class act, Juli! I don't plan to whiten any skulls anytime soon but nice to know this option. Always enjoy your posts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #14

    Default

    I've been buying my peroxide as a paste from beauty supply companies. I apply the paste with a brush, let it dry, wash it thoroughly and then apply another coat. It sometimes helps to add paste to the wet skull so it penetrates a little better. It works pretty well but maybe not quite as well as the liquid. The paste only costs around $20 and I've probably done around 30 skulls with 1 bottle. The toughest part is the initial part cleaning the skull. I often put my skulls in trash bag and let them sit out in the warm temps for a while and the meat comes off a lot easier. Boiling is a lot more time consuming if you don't do this first! If you are willing to clean the skull it is a piece of cake cleaning and whitening it with peroxide paste!

  15. #15
    Member JuliW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,189

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 4merguide View Post
    Juli.....how do you personally recommend to clean and degrease...???
    Well, I had a nice write up... then lost it. So this is a short version.

    For DIYers, I recommend boiling. Clean as much meat as possible off the skull (try not to cut into the bone). Put it in a pot of boiling water with some washing soda. Every 30 min or so take it out and clean it - either manually or with a power washer. Be careful, if you use a power washer. When it is completely clean it can be put in degreaser - I use white gas. This takes about 1-4 weeks, depending on the skull. I take bigger (bear size) skulls out after two weeks, then dry and determine if they need to be put in for longer. Greasy spots look darker or differently colored - usually noticeable on the lower jaw bone and back of the skull.


    I have boiled both rotten and fresh skulls, and have never noticed a difference in the amount of time it took to clean them. (They were not rotten by my choice, LOL)

    For my own personal skulls, I would use the ocean, if possible.. but many people don't have the means to be able to do that.
    Taxidermy IS art!
    www.alaskawildliferugs.com
    Your mount is more than a trophy, it's a memory. Relive The Memory!

  16. #16
    Member JuliW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,189

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AKFreezerFiller View Post
    You are a class act, Juli! I don't plan to whiten any skulls anytime soon but nice to know this option. Always enjoy your posts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks!
    Taxidermy IS art!
    www.alaskawildliferugs.com
    Your mount is more than a trophy, it's a memory. Relive The Memory!

  17. #17

    Default

    Lots of great info here! Cleaning skulls are labor intensive and not very fun! If I had lots of $ I'd pay to have them cleaned and whitened! If you have time and are willing to do them yourself it's pretty cheap but super labor intensive.

  18. #18
    Forum Admin Brian M's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Eagle River, AK
    Posts
    13,393

    Default

    Tried maceration for the first time last year with my wife's cow moose skull, and I was super impressed with the results. Likely going to do 7 or 8 more skulls like that this summer that have been sitting in my freezer for years. Haven't decreased or whitened it yet. Good tips here for sure

  19. #19
    Member SkinnyD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    20B
    Posts
    1,379

    Default

    Beetles seem to take the work out of the cleaning process, but then one has to deal with thousands of hungry mouths once the skull is cleaned.
    Passing up shots on mergansers since 1992.


  20. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,246

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iusckeeper View Post
    Do you use volume 40 or 50? and does it matter if its the liquid or creme? Finally, I have heard conflicting views of submerged length of time... and that the peroxide can actually "eat" the bone... but I'm not sure I believe that. How long do you submerge?
    I know you are a good hunter, I had know idea you were THAT good.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •