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Thread: machete blade shape?

  1. #1

    Default machete blade shape?

    What works best - the straight blade, or the one that is curved down called "kukri"? Here's some pictures:

    The main purpose is to have something to clear light limbs - particularly devil's club, in front of my face. It will probably be something relatively short, that I can carry in a sheath and/or daypack.

    Thx all for replying to my earlier post.

  2. #2
    Member akpredator's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006

    Default personal preference

    I tried one of those curved down Machetes its on the link you posted its the Smith & Wesson Bush Hog . I liked it very much you would be suprized how big of alders you can wack down . the blade is very sturdy and comes with a nice sheath that stays out of you way when not in use

  3. #3
    New member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    NSW Australia

    Default Kukri

    Several years ago I was working in Brunei and bought several kukries from the Gurkha Regiment stationed there to steal is nearly half an inch thick the rumour goes that it's made out of old truck leaf springs it's great for cutting timber and spitting kindling the design hasn't changed hundreds of years, and unlike parangs and machetes that were designed to be used for cutting softer timber as you would find in warmer parts of the world in jungles etc. Nepal has a lot of hard timber. The design of the kukri is such that when you strike with the front part of the blame, which is the area designed for chopping your fingers are protected like kukries book wish you get hatchet and a machete combined also the area of the blade near the handle is designed for fine work to notch in front of the handle. Did you somewhere to put your index finger. When doing this fine work.
    Cheers Karl

  4. #4


    If you are really looking for a KUKRI.......stay away from that junk on that web site. They have as much in common with a Kukri as a butter knife has with a Helle. If you want a good one (I have several....different sizes and configurations) go to:

  5. #5



    also which also has an ebay store - and makes them out of spring steel, as pommynoz thought.

    Boy for $100+ though, you'd hope not to have it disappear from checked bags or get rusted in saltwater. Might go with something less attractive.

  6. #6
    Member AKGUPPY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    S.E. AK


    Just a regular old Machete. 10 million Mexicans can't be wrong.

  7. #7

    Default swedish brush axe

    I've tried machetes and woodsman's pal's, but nothing is as good as a swedish brush axe. They will cut down a 4inch green tree with one swing. This web site has a picture of one:

    They are used pretty extensively by surveyors to cut sight lines.

    Once you try one you won't use anything else.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Northeasterly of a Big Lake

    Default a sanvick is one amazing tool

    A Swedish brush axe known as a Sanvick is one amazing tool...I've used one for 30 years in the woods...I'm one of those surveyors.

    A Sandvick will kill a 3" willow, alder, poplar after some practice, with one well placed stroke...with a bit of work I've dropped a 8"DBH spruce. With the back side of the hook, I've beat PK nails into asphalt in a pinch...think tent pegs vs PK nails. Something a big knife can't do.

    A machete with a less than sharp edge can glance off the target and strike some unintended portion of your might be wondering how I know that. I was new.

    The blade on a Sandvick is replaceable. Sometimes replacement in the field after a poorly aimed stroke is required, you might be wondering how I know that too. After locating the dull brown 6"x1.25" sliver of steel in the worries, easier than finding that camo knife you had to have...some classical training in alternative engineering will be helpful in getting the blade back in the frame...but it can be done.

    A machete will do berry bushes and ferns with greater haste but I ask the guys I hire which one do you wanna chance a fall down a hill with?

    FYI...I was told by some Canadian hands that if you work in the woods and are injured with a machete, Canada's version of workers comp won't pay.

    True or not no matter. If you're clearing a trail for your ATV or snowmachine thru the brush and aren't using a gas-axe, a Sandvick is the way to go. Starting it in sub-zero temps has never been a issue.

    Read a couple of chapters of Conan the Barbarian and have at it.

  9. #9


    The Gerber Brush knife on the first link is real hard to beat, we have the swedish bush ax, but choose the gerber every time.

    You can get it at Sportsmans in Anchorage. Try it, you will be impressed.
    Wasilla Real Estate News

  10. #10
    Member sgteldridge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Fairbanks/Fort Wainwright


    Id recommend the 18in or 12in standard Ontario Military Machete. Once the edge has been sharpen up like you like its one of the best.

  11. #11


    Hate to disagree with PartyChief360, because I used to be a party chief myself. All over the world, in fact.
    Ecuador, Puerto Rico, Malaysia, Louisiana, Ghana, and some other places that didn't need as much line cut through the jungle or cane fields in triple digit temps.
    I carry pf Malaria from Borneo as a recurrent reminder of crews with 4-6 linecutters, a rodman, and a crew chief who also ran the gun...

    As far as machetes go, no need to spend $ on anything but an 18" GI model:

    Invest in a sheath and loop a leather thong on the eye about 1/2 longer than the handle and use it as a leash around your wrist. especially in the beginning. This is a good safety measure, 'cause you sharpen the business 2/3 of it to just about split hair with a 12" mill ******* file. As broad of a taper as you can manage to put on the edge will last the longest, so don't feel bad about removing a lot of metal when you file it sharp as the Reaper's scythe...

    When it's sharp enough to really scare you, it's time to get the grip right.

    "Yes sir! A mans grip on his club is like his grip on this life, I always says." -- Bagger Vance

    If you grip a machete hard and keep your wrist stiff, your hand and arm will soon ache from the strain, and you will soon find the blade flying from your hand in a very unprofessional twist of sharp flying steel. You don't want to hold it like a sledge hammer handle, you want to use it to make 45 degree cuts across the branches and stems of the hapless brush.
    You want to hold the handle like a tennis racket, relaxed, but ready to deliver power.

    In the Lowlands of Ecuador, where every kid grows up with a machete, I learned how to put the forward end of the handle to pivot point where the web between my index and middle finger met my palm, and use the back part of my hand to "double haul" the handle back and impart much higher blade speed to each whack. This makes it about 70% easier to cut a given length of survey troche through a tightly woven wall of pyrocanthus, craetauga, picopico, smilax, and biting flies in the middle of an Equatorial day.

    Most Big League power hitters are "Pull hitters", they pull the bat with their bottom hand to impart Big League bat speed. Exact same principle with a machete edge.

    If you need more than a machete, and can get away with a little less than a saw...Remember Cool Hand Luke?

    "Takin it off Boss!"


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