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Thread: Sauna Build

  1. #1

    Default Sauna Build

    I have plans on building a sauna/bath house. The plans are rough and in my head... I figured an 8x8 sauna with an 8x8 deck for wood storage and seating to cool off. Is the 8x8 sauna big enough for 2-4 people? I could change it and make it 8x10 sauna and 6x8 porch. Anyway I drilled holes for the posts and poured quickrete before the frost settled in. More pictures to come as the build commences.
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  2. #2
    Supporting Member iofthetaiga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTfisher View Post
    Is the 8x8 sauna big enough for 2-4 people?
    Definitely.
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    Forum Admin Brian M's Avatar
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    We have a 10' yurt sauna, and it seats six comfortably - could easily do nine.

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    I have a 12x16 not including the small porch. Has cedar benches on 3 sides. It was the 1st building I put up on my property where I built my house. I used it for storage during the build and then put in the stove and benches later. It's larger than I need most of the time, but it is nice to have the wood all stored inside.
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  5. #5

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    What is best used for a sauna floor? The sauna will be 3 foot off the ground. I would like to have the floor slope to the middle just a smidge so that water will drain out the bottom after installing a drain. That way this is a wet sauna, or bath house. Anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks!

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    our is the back half of a 8x12, with the front half a shower pan & drain/storage room. 2-3 easy, 4 could work. We did ours with the sauna bench long enough to sleep on, so the sauna provides a mini cabin away from the 16x20 cabin. Ours is dry/steam, so no floor drain. I covered the plywood floor with concrete backer board, then had enough 1x2s to do cedar slat/mats. I'm guessing the floor will last as long as I do.

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    Just my 2 cents but rather than deal with a drain. I just put milled 2 by material on the floor and gaped them so the water went right thru. My sauna is 3 plus feet off the ground and afterwards I went around and skirted the bottom. I then covered the skirting with milled boards off the sawmill for looks. I would make sure that you leave a section that you can remove for the hotter months to dry out the ground under the sauna so it does not mildew. The nice thing about the way I did it is that in the winter we can shovel snow around the bottom and it really helps keep it warm in the colder months.

  8. #8

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    I like the idea of having a shower pan instead of sloping the whole floor. That way when water is heated up and time for a bath you can just stand over the pan and let the majority of it catch the water and drain it out the bottom. I think instead of a store bought pan I will make a pan out of 2"x2" and concrete in a sloped drain or tile it in.

    Quote Originally Posted by toofewweekends View Post
    our is the back half of a 8x12, with the front half a shower pan & drain/storage room. 2-3 easy, 4 could work. We did ours with the sauna bench long enough to sleep on, so the sauna provides a mini cabin away from the 16x20 cabin. Ours is dry/steam, so no floor drain. I covered the plywood floor with concrete backer board, then had enough 1x2s to do cedar slat/mats. I'm guessing the floor will last as long as I do.

  9. #9
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    Default Sauna Plans

    Here are some plans drawn up for me by an old Finnish Yooper friend of mine when I lived in Michigan's U.P. I've built a couple like this and they turned out really nice. Hopefully it will help you with your project..

    Dave
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    Nice plans. I'd be interested to know a bit more detail on how the wood stove goes through the wall for outside loading.

  11. #11
    Premium Member kasilofchrisn's Avatar
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    Iv'e seen a few with the door outside and I really like the concept. I'm not sure how they put it in though.
    It is nice not having smoke inside when you fill it and all the bits of bark and what not stay outside so less mess and no splinters.
    My dad had a stove built when I was a kid with a pipe going through the stove. In the top of the back and out the bottom. It connected to a metal trash can and heated the water in the can very nicely. Made a loop and circulated itself without a pump.
    Remember the stove and water cans, if you have them, will take up some of your 8X8 space.
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    I have had a tiled sloped floor sauna....much too hot to walk on.
    The next sauna will have a center drain, sloped floor (waterproofed with red guard or aqua seal) and cedar duck boards.

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    I've got an 8x10 and it can seat 6 if everyone gets along. I have about 6" of beach stones on top of landscape fabric for a floor. It works great for draining and keeping the place toasty.

  14. #14
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    The ones I built did not use the stove outside feed option. But I've seen them though and it's a nice option. To build it you just frame an oversized hole in the outside wall and fill the gap between the stove a frame with brick. Works great.
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  15. #15

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    What is your foundation like and how did you slope the floor?

    Quote Originally Posted by otternorth View Post
    I have had a tiled sloped floor sauna....much too hot to walk on.
    The next sauna will have a center drain, sloped floor (waterproofed with red guard or aqua seal) and cedar duck boards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MTfisher View Post
    What is your foundation like and how did you slope the floor?
    Ya know, every time I get lumber from one of the big box stores, I have to sort through a bunch of bowed, twisted, split, or crooked ones to get reasonably straight lumber. Perhaps instead of sorting for straightness, you could select for crooked lumber for floor joists. Install them so they all are all oriented with the crook facing down (if that makes sense) and you'll end up with a floor that is low in the center.

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    A sauna with with an exterior loading door is good during the warmer season but won't get hot in the winter, unless you like cooler saunas and making extra firewood.... The door for the stove could be oriented for loading from the changing room with good results though. Have been in well over 50 different saunas over the years.

    Quote Originally Posted by kasilofchrisn View Post
    Iv'e seen a few with the door outside and I really like the concept. I'm not sure how they put it in though.
    It is nice not having smoke inside when you fill it and all the bits of bark and what not stay outside so less mess and no splinters.
    My dad had a stove built when I was a kid with a pipe going through the stove. In the top of the back and out the bottom. It connected to a metal trash can and heated the water in the can very nicely. Made a loop and circulated itself without a pump.
    Remember the stove and water cans, if you have them, will take up some of your 8X8 space.

  18. #18
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    Dave,
    what part of the UP did you live in? I grew up there. Also, most stoves with exterior loading doors were on lake cabins that were mostly used in the summer.... Sauna and swim!

    Quote Originally Posted by standdup View Post
    Here are some plans drawn up for me by an old Finnish Yooper friend of mine when I lived in Michigan's U.P. I've built a couple like this and they turned out really nice. Hopefully it will help you with your project..

    Dave

  19. #19
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    Iron Mountain and Gladstone mostly. Went to college in the Soo. Still like it down there but it's too crowded for me....
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  20. #20
    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kasilofchrisn View Post
    It is nice not having smoke inside when you fill it...
    If there is a problem with smoke when feeding the stove, then the flue isn't big/straight enough, or there is a negative air problem.

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