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Thread: New cabin build

  1. #1
    Member akriverunner's Avatar
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    Default New cabin build

    I'm starting a new place, 20x32 full two story, I have three rows of 8x8 pilings in the ground so they are about 8' apart. I am using 4x12 fir beams running the 32' length and I'm trying to decide if I should use 9&1/2 or 11&7/8 bci's and on 16" or 24" centers. The bci's will be running the 20' length of course. Not worried about the price difference as the 11&7/8 are only $2.50 more but I don't want to haul the larger ones if they aren't necessary.


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  2. #2

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    If you use the 9.5 on 16" you should be in good shape . What are you going to floor it with?You should be able to use r-21 in the floor with the 9.5 joist.

  3. #3

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    Think about heavy things that you "Might" have on the first floor. Refrigerator, woodstove, gunsafe, stored firewood, cases of booze, etc.. My theory is always over build, as it saves problems down the road.

  4. #4
    Member akriverunner's Avatar
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    Im kinda leaning towards using 2x10x10' and splicing them over the center beam for the ease of hauling in shorter lumber until winter. Plan on insulating with r-19 or 21 and putting 1/4" wire mesh up under the joists for ventilation and keep the critters out.


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  5. #5

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    You should go with the 20 ft. bci's and have one of the barge guys drop them off on their way down river.the 20 ft will be easier to move around than the 10 ft ,plus no warping or twisting one less joint to mess with.

  6. #6
    Member Arcticwildman's Avatar
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    River runner...clear your inbox out, it is full!

  7. #7
    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    For insulation I wouldn't put less than R34. That requires 12" JCI. I also put a 2" blue foam under it set on the ledges. At 40 below, I don't need shoes. The floor will kill your BTUs. My floor was as solid as concrete. 12" JCI on 12" centers. The difference between first class and coach is minimal.

    12" on 16 is the easiest and since you have a middle beam...... should be very solid. Glue and nail it well. Use Simpson ties to hold everything straight. Check for square often.
    I don't mean to sound bitter, cold, or cruel, but I am, so that's how it comes out.
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  8. #8
    Member akriverunner's Avatar
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    Inbox should have some space now arcticwildman. I'm no longer on the river. Atv and sled access only so no barge getting to where I need.


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  9. #9
    Member Arcticwildman's Avatar
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    Hmmm...it's full again. Probably your sent message folder is what is doing it.


    Quote Originally Posted by akriverunner View Post
    Inbox should have some space now arcticwildman. I'm no longer on the river. Atv and sled access only so no barge getting to where I need.


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  10. #10
    Member cdubbin's Avatar
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    Any I-joist will easily span 10 feet, especially at 16" o.c. .....I'd be more worried about what your posts are sitting on....any footers? With a building like that, at full snow load, you could potentially have 15,000+ #'s of load on each post. I wouldn't go with less than a 2'x2' concrete pad, 8" thick and reinforced with rebar under each post, with some kind of holddown....backfill with gravel, mechanically compacted, and a full curtain wall with sheathing around the entire perimeter. The potential wind loads on a building that size are huge as well....just try holding a sheet of plywood facing a 40-mph gust....
    " Gas boats are bad enough, autos are an invention of the devil, and airplanes are worse." ~Allen Hasselborg

  11. #11
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I hate a springy floor so would go with the 11 7/8's.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

    If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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