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Thread: Lead fouling?

  1. #1
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    Default Lead fouling?

    So now that I'm shooting these lead cast bullets I need to learn to identy lead fouling that I've heard so much about. Just what exactly am I looking for? Will there be an obivous build up of lead that you can scrape? Is it that big of a deal? We clean our guns anyway. I shot 50 rounds the other day through my SBH 44. I pulled out the cylinder and looked in the barrel. As far as I can tell all I have is a little black soot. Same as on the cylinder.

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    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    To get a good idea of what to look for in your barrel, is to open the cylinder (or remove in the case of a single action) and look at the forcing cone. This is that area of the barrel that is the first place the bullet gets to after it leaves the cylinder. You are looking for a gray oxide.

    Next clean the barrel with BRAKEFREE oil on a patched rod. Do this until the patches no longer show any black. Next run a patch of 91% Isopropyl Alcohol through your bore followed by a dry patch.

    What you be looking for will be deposits along the rifleing, It will not look like the sharp well defined grooves. Also you will see a streaking.

    To get the lead out, well here goes. I have found over the years that the LEWIS lead remover has worked the best for me. I know there are other ways to do it, but this has always worked and I have not needed anything else in more years than I care to divulge.

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Lead can deposit in a variety of ways, I usually see it as strips along the rifling and small blobs in the grooves of the barrel.

    My favorite way to remove it is to fire a cylinder full of gas checked cast bullets with a mild load. The gascheck seems to work pretty well at scraping out most of the deposits.

    It's advisable to get any copper deposits from shooting jacketed bullets out of the barrel before shooting cast, tends to really reduce leading.

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    Ditto for both Al's and Paul's tips.

    Generally with gas checked bullets there is very little fouling and what there is can be removed with a bronze brush. After a shooting session with cast lead (pretty much all I shoot) I dry brush the cylinder throats and the bore with a tight fitting bronze brush. I BIG help is to have a very smooth bore before you start shooting lead but even more important is to be free of any copper fouling as Paul has said.

    The older blue S&W revolvers had such smooth glassy bores and worked so well with cast bullets. The newer guns aren't so smooth. The Rugers aren't very smooth and can be slicked up by fire lapping or just shooting with jacketed loads. The Ruger Stainless bores are pretty smooth and all Rugers are better than they used top be.

    If you have a heavily lead fouled bore it will increase pressure so be cautious about "shooting" the lead out with jacketed loads. Use only moderate loads as Paul pointed out.

    This Lewis Lead Remover is a worth while purchase at about $20 and it does work very well.
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    Thanks guys. As usual a guy like me can come here and get the straight scoop on this stuff that may be a no brainer for some. This is a great forum and you guys are the one who make it great.

    Perry

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    When I get leading itís always at the forcing cone. This is the way I get it out. It might be kinda primative for those who are more knowledgeable than me.

    I canít even see the leading, but if itís there I can tell, and I can remove it.

    During cleaning the barrel with a patched jag, dry, from the front end, I push the patch part way out the other end, but not all the way. I back it up. I keep going further, and further, until when I back it up, the patch bunches up and it sorta gets stuck. If I manage to pull it back through the barrel I can see flecks of lead on the patch.

    I keep on, keepin on, until there are no more lead flecks when I do that. Iíve been doing it this way with my 357 for many a year. Now, I use the method for my 44 Mag. and a 38 Special.

    About those Lewis Lead Removers, I donít have one, but recently, I have used the brass screens in place of the patch. It can sometime speed up the process.

    Shooters Choice, Lead Remover is the best solvent Iíve tried for this.

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    [quote=Murphy;111592]Ditto for both Al's and Paul's tips.

    Generally with gas checked bullets there is very little fouling and what there is can be removed with a bronze brush. After a shooting session with cast lead (pretty much all I shoot) I dry brush the cylinder throats and the bore with a tight fitting bronze brush. Tight fitting = 45 cal. bronze brush for your 44 Snyd. Bill
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    I forgot to add, that I clean with a brush too, the point being, it doesn't get it all.

    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

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