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Thread: Ruger Super Redhawk Recoil Damage

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    Member Libertine's Avatar
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    Default Ruger Super Redhawk Recoil Damage

    Thought I would throw this out to the collective wisdom of the Forum.

    I bought a nice Ruger Super Redhawk .44 Magnum (7 1/2 barrel) from a coworker for a decent price. Took it out to the range to test fire it with assorted factory cartridges I had in the garage---Winchester White Box 240 gr, Hornady XTP 300 gr, and Buffalo Bore 340 gr +P + (1425 FPS).

    Long story short, after firing a cylinder of the stout Buffalo Bore load, I went to eject the empties with the ejector rod, and wouldn't you know---THE ENTIRE EJECTOR ROD AND SHROUD WAS GONE FROM THE BARREL! I looked behind me and about 10 feet away was where the ejector shroud and rod landed after the recoil from one of the shots broke the shroud off.
    From the pictures below you can see where the stud, which was originally brazed to the barrel, broke loose and sent the entire ejector rod assembly flying. The screw attached to the stud was still tight.

    I got 2 questions:

    Anybody have this happen to them?

    What did you do to make sure this never happened again?

    Thanks for the feedback.

    IMG_0149.jpg

    IMG_0150.jpg

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    First of all, your revolver is not a Super Redhawk, but a Super Blackhawk (SBH). As strong as they are, they are not as strong as a Super Redhawk or even a Redhawk, which are both double action revolvers. The Buffalo Bore loads are clearly too much for the SBH single action. I'd sell the remaining BB +P+ loads to someone with a Super Redhawk, and contact Ruger about getting your revolver fixed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drow View Post
    First of all, your revolver is not a Super Redhawk, but a Super Blackhawk (SBH). As strong as they are, they are not as strong as a Super Redhawk or even a Redhawk, which are both double action revolvers. The Buffalo Bore loads are clearly too much for the SBH single action. I'd sell the remaining BB +P+ loads to someone with a Super Redhawk, and contact Ruger about getting your revolver fixed.

    Like drow said, you have a Super Blackhawk, not a Redhawk.

    That being said, I have shot 340grn Buffalo Bores and I also load 300grn lead lazer cast bullets with 21 grains of H110, and my Super Blackhawk is as good as the day I bought it. I think the SBH is perfectly capable of handling such loads.

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    Member Libertine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drow View Post
    First of all, your revolver is not a Super Redhawk, but a Super Blackhawk (SBH). As strong as they are, they are not as strong as a Super Redhawk or even a Redhawk, which are both double action revolvers. The Buffalo Bore loads are clearly too much for the SBH single action. I'd sell the remaining BB +P+ loads to someone with a Super Redhawk, and contact Ruger about getting your revolver fixed.
    Thanks for setting me straight. This damaged wheelgun is indeed a Super Blackhawk.

    I also have a Super Redhawk 454 Casull 7.5 inch (double action) and got that gun mixed up with my newly purchased Super Blackhawk 44 Magnum.

    That being said, I'm hesitant about sending the gun back to the factory because of the shipping cost and FFL hassle of getting the gun back. I suppose a smithy in town could braze the stud back on, but who's to say it won't sheer off again. I do like shooting full power loads though. I understand the newer Super Blackhawks have the ejector shroud screwed into the barrel (no brazed stud to barrel fit).

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    Keep in mind that 'anything made can be broken'! I would have a local gunsmith that is good with pistols do the repairs and keep shooting. While I have not had any issues with my Ruger 44's (both Super Blackhawk's and Redhawk's), I have had a bolt that was silver soldiered on a rifle come apart. Had that repaired and all was good.

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    I have seen it happen more than a few times. You can have it soldered back in or even good epoxy will work.Your BB loads are fine for your gun I use even stouter loads at times. If it was my gun I would use epoxy and then stake it around the edge, I'm on a island without all the gun shops like anchorage. Often the problem comes from way over tightening the screw and pushing the stud out but most times folks just snap the screw.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Quote Originally Posted by Libertine View Post

    That being said, I'm hesitant about sending the gun back to the factory because of the shipping cost and FFL hassle of getting the gun back. I suppose a smithy in town could braze the stud back on, but who's to say it won't sheer off again. I do like shooting full power loads though. I understand the newer Super Blackhawks have the ejector shroud screwed into the barrel (no brazed stud to barrel fit).
    For what it's worth, you can ship back and forth to Ruger without an FFL being involved. No change in ownership, so the .gov doesn't care. Fedex just delivers it to your door like any other package.

    I had a similar thinghappen several times on a .44 mag vaquero, even though it uses a screw instead of a stud. The way the gun was fitted, the ejector shroud wasn't in 100% contact with the barrel. Consequently there wasn't enough friction between the two, and the only thing resisting the recoil was the screw itself, which would eventually shear off. I fixed it once myself by getting the screw out with and easy-out and replacing with factory parts, and twice by sending it back to Ruger. Finally, I cured in permanently by replacing the housing with a cheaper aluminum version from a Blackhawk. The reduced mass keeps it from beating on the screw so badly, and it now stays where is should. That answer would be considered a down grade on most guns though, since it's a painted piece instead of blued or SS.

    In your case, I'd just send it back to Ruger, and it should come back in perfect condition. As a bonus they often will go through the gun and replace anything else showing wear.

    The other fun thing is when your cylinder pin flys out. Put enough rounds down range, and eventually those wear out too.

    Yk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amigo Will View Post
    I have seen it happen more than a few times. You can have it soldered back in or even good epoxy will work.Your BB loads are fine for your gun I use even stouter loads at times. If it was my gun I would use epoxy and then stake it around the edge, I'm on a island without all the gun shops like anchorage. Often the problem comes from way over tightening the screw and pushing the stud out but most times folks just snap the screw.
    I agree completely.

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    Box it up and send it back to Ruger. You will probably only pay the shipping to get it there. The minute you "fix" it yourself, they will no longer repair it under warranty. Take the grips off before you ship it. Epoxy is not a good idea. Over the years, I've seen a dozen or so of these failures.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

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    Quote Originally Posted by drow View Post
    As strong as they are, they are not as strong as a Super Redhawk or even a Redhawk, which are both double action revolvers. The Buffalo Bore loads are clearly too much for the SBH single action. I'd sell the remaining BB +P+ loads to someone with a Super Redhawk, and contact Ruger about getting your revolver fixed.
    Not at all, Ruger-only loads are for all Rugers including the Blackhawks. Shoot them all you want.


    Like Doug says send it home! Call 603-865-2442 and tell them your issue (threaded bushing came un-soldered) then ask for a shipping label. They will likely give you one because that is a warrantied "workmanship defect" there . . . then you just box it and drop at UPS or FedEx whichever they are using these days.
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    Member Libertine's Avatar
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    Thanks to everyone for their input.

    I contacted Ruger on Friday and got a RMA number to send the revolver back to the New Hampshire factory for repair. Sounds like it should be covered under warranty. We'll see about Ruger's turn-around time and if the repair holds up.

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    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Should be faster than you would think.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Usually just a tad under 3 weeks turn around in Alaska.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Libertine View Post
    Thanks to everyone for their input.

    I contacted Ruger on Friday and got a RMA number to send the revolver back to the New Hampshire factory for repair. Sounds like it should be covered under warranty. We'll see about Ruger's turn-around time and if the repair holds up.
    Both of my experiences with Ruger repair/warranty were excellent, short turn around time, job well done, and great customer service. I expect you will have a similar experience.

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    I have sheared the ERH screw and when I went over 300 gr I sheared 3 grip frame screws. Just sent for a replacement pack of screws. The reason is my screws got loose, they must be Loc-Tited and kept tight.
    It is been many years since I had a BH with a stud but it held up for me. Ruger will fix it and if you call them, most times they send a sticker and pay postage both ways.
    I am glad they did away with the stud, the screw is so much easier to fix. I use a dental burr in my Moto Tool to cut a slot in the broken screw and a small screwdriver will remove it. A dental burr will actually cut a broken tap.

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    My kids Stainless SBH did the same thing.....twice. He had it repaired the first time locally. I suggested he send it to Ruger, but he has not done it yet. I have owned a Redhawk since they first became available. Have not had a single problem with it and i shoot the hot stuff in it all the time.
    Hunt Ethically. Respect the Environment.

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    Same thing happened to me with a Freedom Arms model 83 454 Casull. This was when they first came out. I was shooting Freedom Arms factory ammo at the time. I asked the factory rep if this had ever happened before, and his answer was "Sometimes". Long story short, they fixed it and it's been running fine for about the last quarter of a century. As AK Bearcat said, 'anything made can be broken' - absolutely true.

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    There are only 8 revolvers on the BB website that they say are capable of handling the .44mag +P+ loads and the SBH is one of them. Almost seems like a odd revolver to have on the acceptable list.

    I shot the BB 340gr loads out of my 4" Anaconda and it was the most horrendous recoil I have ever felt. I'm not recoil sensitive by any stretch but these loads out of the 4" barrel just plain hurt. It was all I could do to fire the 6th round out of that gun. I guess I need to try the 305 gr loads to see if they are any better.

    i did realize I need to grease the cases as all 6 brass needed to be tapped out with a wooden dowel from the cylinder.

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    I do hope you are kidding about greasing the cases. That is the LAST thing you'd want to do. It would cause set back of the cases in the chambers and potentially cause cylinder lock-up. The cases have to grip the chamber walls under the pressure of the ignited powder to hold them in place. Sticky cases in the chambers means either the ealls are too rough or pressures are very high.
    I have never understood why these super max loads are necessary. I usually load my 300 gr. 44 mag loads to around 1175 fps to 1200. They penetrate like crazy at those velocities. Besides, those laods are ****ed expensive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mauserboy View Post
    I do hope you are kidding about greasing the cases. That is the LAST thing you'd want to do. It would cause set back of the cases in the chambers and potentially cause cylinder lock-up. The cases have to grip the chamber walls under the pressure of the ignited powder to hold them in place. Sticky cases in the chambers means either the ealls are too rough or pressures are very high.
    I have never understood why these super max loads are necessary. I usually load my 300 gr. 44 mag loads to around 1175 fps to 1200. They penetrate like crazy at those velocities. Besides, those laods are ****ed expensive.

    Good info if you are correct. I did not know it would be an issue. Can you elaborate a hit more on what you mean by causing setback in the chambers and causing cylinder lockup? What is the best way to clean/polish the cylinder walls. And I'd imagine the BB +P+ rounds are fairly high pressure. I do wish I'd gone with the 305gr loads as the 340 are rediculous.

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