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Thread: Suzuki 140 props

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    Default Suzuki 140 props

    What are all you guys running for props? I have a 2070 alweld and have tried several props.(all aluminum). For the exception of the annual Yukon trip I'm fairly light and usually run a 21 4 blade. Last year I was waaay heavy on my moose hunt and had to put a 19 4 blade on and it did pretty well pushing 2600-2700 lbs. was thinkin bout trying a 23 3 blade for when I'm really light. Have any of you guys tried a 17? I would like to have one just in case I need to really push some heavy loads. How much top end would I lose goin to a 17? Any info appreciated. Thanks

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Last year on the Yukon I ran a 14 X 20 3 blade SS, I have used a 14 X 19 aluminum which was under propped and a 14 X 21 was too much for my boat.
    The stainless 20 is almost too much prop with a load and I may trim it down some.

    I also carry and have used Pro-Pulse: http://propulse.se/english/

    I liked it quite well, I switched because I wanted to try the SS, the PP is adjustable pitch and you can replace a blade if you break one, depending on what you hit, if its a gravel bar than you probably just smoked all 4 blades....I hit a submerged log once and only broke one and was at WOT.

    Everyboat is different and as you noticed loads may a big difference......on a long trip I would have spares and swap as conditions change....
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the info. Yea I can't remember off hand what the 19 was, I think it was shy of 14. But it did well with quite a load. With the 2600-2800lbs or so..I could run 32-35mph at 5200ish. But if I backed off much I would slower fall off step. This year I will possibly closer to 3000lbs, as I'll be bringing a lil jon boat with me. I'm in no hurry. Anyways, I will probably pick up a 23 3 blade for just cursing around light, and also a 17. I will have a 23,21,19,17 props which should cover most bases. Did you notice much diff with the ss and aluminum?

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    Member theultrarider's Avatar
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    Running a cupped saltwater type stainless over an aluminum is a huge difference. You can trim it much higher without cavitation. Turn tighter corners and rougher water. Holeshot and getting on step is a major difference. All I run is stainless for those reasons. Then again, I only run the salt and not rivers. Sand mud gravel the stainless is great. Dont think I would run one with alot of rocks to worry about hitting as I'd rather lose a prop than take gears out of a lower unit. Which can happen on a solid hit at high rpm with a stainless. Likewise. For sake of argument, if you are currently propped with a 21 aluminum and happy with your max rpm, you will most likely end up running a 19 stainless to get that same max rpm with it. Trial and error. Unfortunately there is no perfect chart to pick the right prop from. A good dealer will often let you try different props and return them as long as you dont put a mark on them. Good luck finding the right setup for your rig.

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Its hard to say as I didnt have a aluminum 20P to compare to. There are deals on props if you have time (winter-time) to look, I bought the SS off of e-bay for $150.00.....

    Its good to have selection to try. 5200RPM at WOT seems a little low, I think WOT on that motor is 5600-6200, should fall some where in between those numbers to be propped right. My 20P is ok if not real heavy but loaded it take a while to get 5500. I think I am going to make a pattern and trim 1/4" off the blades and see if that helps.
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    Member theultrarider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akgramps View Post
    Its hard to say as I didnt have a aluminum 20P to compare to. There are deals on props if you have time (winter-time) to look, I bought the SS off of e-bay for $150.00.....

    Its good to have selection to try. 5200RPM at WOT seems a little low, I think WOT on that motor is 5600-6200, should fall some where in between those numbers to be propped right. My 20P is ok if not real heavy but loaded it take a while to get 5500. I think I am going to make a pattern and trim 1/4" off the blades and see if that helps.
    Dont trim it down. Instead send it to a prop shop and have it re-pitched. Most any reputable shop can and will do this for about $100. You want to keep the bite of the large diameter to help get it up on step and not blow out. Instead they can twist the blades into whatever pitch you choose.

    And yes. Whatever red line (max rpm) is for your motor is what you should be running at wot +\- 200 rpm. Adjust prop pitch accordingly.

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theultrarider View Post
    Dont trim it down. Instead send it to a prop shop and have it re-pitched. Most any reputable shop can and will do this for about $100. You want to keep the bite of the large diameter to help get it up on step and not blow out. Instead they can twist the blades into whatever pitch you choose.

    And yes. Whatever red line (max rpm) is for your motor is what you should be running at wot +\- 200 rpm. Adjust prop pitch accordingly.
    I talked to a prop shop about re-pitching and they said they couldn't do much for the pitch on a SS, I called several shops in Seattle Tacoma, its so close I know I can trim a 1/4" off accurately with a template.

    I am running a lift so I can run a jet pump. I installed a permatrim plate and can raise the lower unit quite high before it blows out, The faster I go the higher I can raise the prop. between the lift and trim I have a lot of adjustment...almost too much as there is no one perfect setting for all speeds conditions, so ultimately I am often tweaking and watching the tach/GPS at the same time.....prolly why I run into S**t now and then.....LOL

    The permatrim helped a bunch, the farther you can get the gearcase out of the water the less drag....
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Akgramps View Post
    Its hard to say as I didnt have a aluminum 20P to compare to. There are deals on props if you have time (winter-time) to look, I bought the SS off of e-bay for $150.00.....

    Its good to have selection to try. 5200RPM at WOT seems a little low, I think WOT on that motor is 5600-6200, should fall some where in between those numbers to be propped right. My 20P is ok if not real heavy but loaded it take a while to get 5500. I think I am going to make a pattern and trim 1/4" off the blades and see if that helps.
    I was just saying I was crusing at 5200. Pushing 6k wot

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt/trapak88 View Post
    I was just saying I was cruising at 5200. Pushing 6k wot
    My mistake, I read it wrong, it will be interesting to see how the 23 does for you, seems I read somewhere that each pitch change is about 200 RPM....? How wide is the bottom of your boat?
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  10. #10

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    It's a 2070. The hull itself is quite light. Running light I can get close to 6000 with the 21. I've had a few ppl tell me that a 23 would be ideal for light cruising. I don't really think I need it as with the 21 I'm over 40mph wot.

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