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Thread: Muzzle Brake on Kimber MT 280ai?

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    Member zpoehler's Avatar
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    Default Muzzle Brake on Kimber MT 280ai?

    Has anyone that has a Kimber MT installed a muzzle brake on it? Today at the range I was shooting off my lead sled and the rifle shot very nice groups but when I started shooting off of sand bags and not holding the barrel down it was all over the place. I was also shooting a Winchester extreme weather in 325 wsm both on the lead sled and also off bags and it continuously shot perfectly as it always has...I know the kimber barrel has more of a tendency to heat up and I allowed the barrel to cool down for 5 minutes between shots but it was definitely much more "whippy" than the 325 which has more of a thump style kick, thinking a brake will help this but am curious as to how much and if others have experience with similar rifles?

    Thanks

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    Very light rifles usually require a bit more finesse when shooting from the bench. With my light Kimbers, I have best results by pulling front sandbag back so it's under the front action screw. I then grip forearm ahead of sandbag......I hope this helps.

    Vern

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    Member Yukoner's Avatar
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    I had a sub 6lb rifle in .280. For me, a muzzle brake was never an option. I just realized its limitations and worked around them.
    Were the first three shots what I wanted? If so, good to go. I wasn't looking for repeated accuracy, just hunting accuracy. Pretty much the nature of the beast for really light rifles.
    When working up loads, I found working with the lower velocities kept the barrel whip down. My accuracy in that rifle suffered when I started pushing things, even though there were no pressure issues.
    i sold that rifle, and am toying with building up a new light weight mountain rifle in 7-08 or .308. Seems to me that short actions are the way to go in really light weight rifles.
    Never wrestle with a pig.
    you both get dirty;
    the Pig likes it.

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    limbsaver barrel de resonator !!!!

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    Member zpoehler's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies, one possibility I may have overlooked is the inaccuracy of the rifle after 5 or 6 shots. I've only shot about 60 rds through this rifle and most was off the lead sled, by the time I was going off of bags the barrel had already heated up and perhaps some fouling occurred which it did not like. Next time at the range I'm going to start out off of bags do like VernAK mentioned to pull the front bag back. I've never considered a de-resonator but will definitely look into it if it might help.

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    Member Yukoner's Avatar
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    In a light weight hunting rifle (and hunting is the key word), man, if you are good for the first 5 or so, Id say thats just fine.
    All it takes is the first shot, or sometimes the second.....
    Never wrestle with a pig.
    you both get dirty;
    the Pig likes it.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    I have read that light rifles tend to be more accurate off the sled due to the more linear recoil impulse absorption. I am curious what you find trying it from the shoulder on a cold barrel.

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    I've done "extensive" load development with Montana's in 325 WSM, 270 WSM, 84L 30.06, 84L .280 AI and .308 - It has been my distinct observation that the 84L's need to be pinched ahead of the bag on the forend when shooting at the bench or the accuracy will be erratic - I see it as a "price to pay" in a lightweight rifle - I just started using that technique with all of 'em as that seemed easier to me - I have worked with 3 84M's in 308 and they don't "seem" to be that finicky for some reason, "stupid accurate" at 100 yds - the 30.06 84L was very "tolerable" (if I wasn't so anal) but the .280 AI gave me fits (sold it) - I have a Montana 7mm-08 on layaway that I'll begin to shoot in a week or so, looking forward to that - with all of those lightweight HUNTING rifles just forget about anything but 3 shot groups when trying to satisfy your confidence in the gun IMO

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