Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 29

Thread: Torx screws Tork me off!

  1. #1
    Member Smokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    3,334

    Default Torx screws Tork me off!

    OK, decided to pull a 2 x 7 lupy off a Marlin 45/70 and mount it on my Ruger Hawkeye 358W. The Leupold's take a #15 torx while the Ruger uses #10's... Now is it just me or do you chaps have trouble twisting and or ruining your bits on tight screws? I seem to get along fairly well on the tightening of the screws, but after they have been on a rifle for a spell, and grown roots, they take more force to remove and the torx tools I use don't last long. Anybody got some tips or alternative's???
    When asked what state I live in I say "The State of Confusion", better known as IL....

  2. #2

    Default

    Sometimes I use a small soldering iron and apply some heat to the head of the screw,,do they have thread locker on them ?

  3. #3
    Member Smokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    3,334

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Riverben View Post
    Sometimes I use a small soldering iron and apply some heat to the head of the screw,,do they have thread locker on them ?
    No threadlock used, seems the weld their-selves in good enough without needing any...
    When asked what state I live in I say "The State of Confusion", better known as IL....

  4. #4

    Default

    Are the bits just twisting or breaking?,,is the head of the screw stripped ? What manufacturer of the bits?

  5. #5

    Default

    I tap fairly briskly on the butt end of the screw driver with a hammer while applying steady torque. Works like a impact wrench.

  6. #6
    Member The Kid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Los Anchorage
    Posts
    1,089

    Default

    IMHO the Torx heads work way better than the Allen stuff that many manufacturers used to use and do a way better job of keeping bubba from marring things up than slotted heads. They also allow you to safely apply more torque for a firmer hold than the others. Best trick for them if you are doing enough to have to worry, is to toss the wrenches they give you with the rings and run down to the hardware store. Buy a T10 and T15, you won't need any other sizes so buy singles, and make sure they are made by Klien or Snapon. These brands of tools are properly heat treated and I've been using my pair of Kliens for years with no issues, I have twisted the heads off T10s with no damage to my driver.

    Torx are a good thing, you just have to get away from the poorly made wrenches that come with the parts. If you know mechanic, you might ask him if he has a Snapon Torx set, a friend of mine gave me several T15 drivers from Snapon, said they come in the kits and he's never seen a T15 on a car so he didn't need them.

  7. #7
    Member Smokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    3,334

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Riverben View Post
    Are the bits just twisting or breaking?,,is the head of the screw stripped ? What manufacturer of the bits?
    A little bit of all the above Riverben. I seem to twist a lot of them and break a few. After they twist far enough they are pretty much ruined anyways. The screws are fine, this is not a new or one time problem, I seem to have this happen almost all the time when removing scopes that have been mounted for a spell... Not sure the brand, I have several bits and alan wrenches they all seem to be susceptible...
    When asked what state I live in I say "The State of Confusion", better known as IL....

  8. #8
    Member Smokey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    3,334

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    IMHO the Torx heads work way better than the Allen stuff that many manufacturers used to use and do a way better job of keeping bubba from marring things up than slotted heads. They also allow you to safely apply more torque for a firmer hold than the others. Best trick for them if you are doing enough to have to worry, is to toss the wrenches they give you with the rings and run down to the hardware store. Buy a T10 and T15, you won't need any other sizes so buy singles, and make sure they are made by Klien or Snapon. These brands of tools are properly heat treated and I've been using my pair of Kliens for years with no issues, I have twisted the heads off T10s with no damage to my driver.

    Torx are a good thing, you just have to get away from the poorly made wrenches that come with the parts. If you know mechanic, you might ask him if he has a Snapon Torx set, a friend of mine gave me several T15 drivers from Snapon, said they come in the kits and he's never seen a T15 on a car so he didn't need them.
    Thanks Kid, I buy for all the trades at the college I work at and can get the Klein brand easily... I agree the torx heads are easier to work with, just the quality of the bits are not up to the task... I have never used a tightening gauge to mount scopes as I figure I want then snug and never saw a need for one. If you use one what lb tork does one try to achieve?
    When asked what state I live in I say "The State of Confusion", better known as IL....

  9. #9

    Default

    I believe they should be torqued between 15 and 20 inch pounds for the ring screws,,I have seen a lot of them overtightened,,check out midway USA or brown ells for torq wrench kits ,,they also have tutorials that you can watch

  10. #10

    Default

    Inch pounds not foot pounds

  11. #11

    Default

    Ruger has tutorials also on there website

  12. #12
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Missing Palmer AK in Phonix AZ.
    Posts
    6,416

    Default

    I've had great luck with the Husky and Kolbolt brands at Lowes and Home Depot too . . . Even the junk China stuff does well for me. But the ones they supply are junk and I have the pricy Wheeler Engenering "gunsmith set" and it's mostly junk that's too soft and wants to booger heads too.
    Andy
    On the web= C-lazy-F.co
    Email= Andy@C-lazy-F.co
    Call/Text 602-315-2406
    Phoenix Arizona

  13. #13

    Default

    I agree ,if I used it everyday I would opt for something better,but they are pricey

  14. #14

    Default

    Viagra is good for soft tool problems.

  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,121

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Riverben View Post
    I believe they should be torqued between 15 and 20 inch pounds for the ring screws,,I have seen a lot of them overtightened,,check out midway USA or brown ells for torq wrench kits ,,they also have tutorials that you can watch
    I had a bad habit of over-tightening and stripping scope ring screws so I bought a Torx torque wrench for about $15 and it works like a charm.

  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    4,034

    Default

    Smokey I have to agree with the fellas, it sounds like subpar tools.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Wrangell
    Posts
    7,600

    Default

    I still believe in breaking the driver before the screw but many drivers just break because they are junk.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

  18. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    yukon river
    Posts
    60

    Default

    I've never had an issue with either torx or Allen screws when torqued properly. Over tightening is what usually causes broken bits and stripped screws. I use a Seekonk (sp? I don't have it in front of me right now) it works very well.

  19. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Eureka MT
    Posts
    3,048

    Default

    Get a good brand screwdriver type and tap on the end with a small hammer for shock while twisting. Many screws tend to grow to whatever they are in unless you oil them before installing them.

  20. #20

    Default

    Smokey kills coyoties with his bare hands and he has a big pare of mitts. I'm thinking over tightening might be the problem. When they finally break free do you ever see a spark or smell smoke? I have cuz I usually overdo em too

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •