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Thread: Nickel plated brass

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    Default Nickel plated brass

    I am changing out brass for my 300RUM. I have tried to use Nosler brass, but am getting high pressures with most all of my loads, no matter what charge. I took the gun to the gunsmith, and everything is to spec. So, I am changing brass to see if that is the problem. I have a bunch of nickel plated Remington brass, and some regular Remington brass as well. Is the nickel stuff thicker than the regular brass? Also, I have not used nickel plated stuff. I remember reading something about it long ago, but forgot. Any tricks to using it?

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    I've no experience with Ni rifle brass. I used some Win 357 brass when I first started reloading and it flaked off at the mouth, stuck to the die, and then scratched following brass badly. I don't use much Ni brass and I don't reload it.

    Some High Power Rifle shooters like to use Ni brass thinking it won't stick to the chamber as much as regular brass. Don't know??

    In full disclosure, I do carry some Ni Remington factory loads in my Ni plated Colt 1911. Kind of like the bank teller that waited on me the other day...pink sweater and pink finger nail polish.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonardC View Post

    In full disclosure, I do carry some Ni Remington factory loads in my Ni plated Colt 1911. Kind of like the bank teller that waited on me the other day...pink sweater and pink finger nail polish.
    Thanks for the laugh, that was funny!!!


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    Default Nickel plated brass

    I haven't had any trouble reloading buckle plates brass for my .375 h&h, it does seem a bit harder to size.

    As the previous poster noted, I recycle any that have nickle flaking off.


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    I've heard that it can flake off in your dies and scratch your brass. I've never had any issues with it though. I just put plenty of imperial wax on and run it through. I've experienced the same as limon, it does seem to be a bit harder to size.
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    I have been reloading rifle Nickle plated brass for many years and I never had any issues with it and as a matter of fact I prefer it. It feeds much better and does not corroded when I hunt the salt. Takes a little bit more force to resize and it a little harder to trim. If you look you will see that many dangerous game factory loads come nickle plated, it is my belief this is because it feeds better. That has been my experience and I use it with all my loads. I just ordered some 280 to fire form and use in my 280AI.

    I believe that much of the bad press is related to pistol nickle plated and not rifle.
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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    It can ruin your die if you stick a flaking one in there. Worst stuck case I ever had was a 300wm nickel case last summer, it was well lubed and all but still took a 30ton shop press and special fixtures to get it out. I will load them but I'll never put one in a die I'm not willing to toss now!


    if your pressure is high there is a reason, going to plated brass will not help and may well make it worse. Sure it may make the signs on your brass less pronounced but that in no way means the pressure is less or in any way safer than it was. Seeing pressure signs on your brass doesn't indicate you need tougher brass it indicates you need to address the pressure somehow. Reduce powder charge, try another powder, play with seating depth, maybe get the throat opened some . . . Address the pressure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by limon32 View Post
    I haven't had any trouble reloading buckle plates brass for my .375 h&h, it does seem a bit harder to size.

    Buckle plates, huh? Didnt know you were a cowboy........I know, I know, stupid autocorrect...LOL

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    I have lots of Remington .270 regular brass and I use Winchester .270 brass. The Remington is a little heaver than the Winchester and it will show pressure signs before the Winchester brass. If you have a piece of brass by another maker weigh a couple of each and see if they weigh the same. It might not have anything to do with the nickel it might be the make of the brass. I also will add that I am not bashing Remington brass as it works fine for me also but I need to work my loads up with it if I am going to use it.

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    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
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    It seems like it would be a stretch, but is it possible that the Nosler brass has THAT much less powder capacity than say Winchester? Enough to make a difference in pressure signs?

    What kind of pressure signs are you seeing? I've heard that Nosler brass is alot softer than other types.

    If you are seeing flattened primers or cratering, then would seem soft brass isnt the problem, but maybe just thicker brass with less powder space?

    Oh yea....and what Andy said...LOL..

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkwarthog View Post
    Buckle plates, huh? Didnt know you were a cowboy........I know, I know, stupid autocorrect...LOL
    No autocorrect, just a modern cowboy... Ha ha ha, pr not!


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    Member L. G.'s Avatar
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    Who the he77 uses nickle plated cases anyway?

    Oh yeah, me!!!


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    Quote Originally Posted by L. G. View Post
    Who the he77 uses nickle plated cases anyway?

    Oh yeah, me!!!

    Don't listen to this guy, he put blue nail polish on his bullets!!!


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    Like Andy said:

    He beat me to it, and said it better than I could.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    It can ruin your die if you stick a flaking one in there. Worst stuck case I ever had was a 300wm nickel case last summer, it was well lubed and all but still took a 30ton shop press and special fixtures to get it out. I will load them but I'll never put one in a die I'm not willing to toss now!


    if your pressure is high there is a reason, going to plated brass will not help and may well make it worse. Sure it may make the signs on your brass less pronounced but that in no way means the pressure is less or in any way safer than it was. Seeing pressure signs on your brass doesn't indicate you need tougher brass it indicates you need to address the pressure somehow. Reduce powder charge, try another powder, play with seating depth, maybe get the throat opened some . . . Address the pressure.
    Yep, that's the plan. I was starting very low on the powder loads and still too much pressure. So, I am changing it up. Brass first. I will use the regular remington stuff instead of the nickel plated until I get a handle on things. Seems like it is a bit "thicker" all other good and bad things about it aside. I have a COL gauge and will check everything over again to make sure I did not mess it up. Maybe it will be easy. Likely not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daved View Post
    Yep, that's the plan. I was starting very low on the powder loads and still too much pressure. So, I am changing it up. Brass first. I will use the regular remington stuff instead of the nickel plated until I get a handle on things. Seems like it is a bit "thicker" all other good and bad things about it aside. I have a COL gauge and will check everything over again to make sure I did not mess it up. Maybe it will be easy. Likely not.
    What bullets are you trying to use?? Nosler E tips are known for running high pressure, have you tried multiple bullets?
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    I tried Etips one shot with the lowest load, and so it began. My other RUM liked them just fine, go figure. I have been shooting 168g TTSX and 200g accubonds. I am trying to decrease the bearing surface a bit, that is why I went with the 168g Barnes bullet. That, and they tend to shoot real good out of RUMs. Bullet choices are not huge for the over bored guns in my opinion. I like the monolithic bullets at high speeds to keep from having a grenade. My choice of bullets to use are Barnes TTSX, Accubonds, Partitions, and the Etip. In that order. I like to shoot a Barnes when I can just because of the awesome terminal effects on game.

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    What kind of rifle?

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    too low a charge can give high pressures as well - as for the "over bore" cartridge goes, I doubt you will find a greater selection of projectiles for any bore other than .30 ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 323 View Post
    What kind of rifle?
    A douglas barrel on a 700 action.

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