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Thread: Ulmer edge broad heads on moose?

  1. #1
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    Default Ulmer edge broad heads on moose?

    Has anyone used the ulmer edge broad heads on moose? I'm considering them for my hunt. I've used them in much smaller deer without fail but not something the size of a moose.

  2. #2

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    Hi Jawz,

    I notice you're from the land of big critters down-under. To get the right mental image of a moose, picture one of your water buffs with a shoulder height as high (in some cases higher) than the top of your head. Think massive muscles, strong bones and sturdy ribs. Moose hide is typically 1/2"+ thick in most areas, and difficult to penetrate without a sharp blade. Imagine punching a Phillips screwdriver through thick leather and you'll get an idea of penetrating moose hide. Although I cannot prove this, I believe far too many archery moose are lost due to long/marginal/poor shots and the use of deer-adequate gear. Yes, you can kill a moose with a well placed arrow from a 45 or 50 pound bow, just as you can with one very good shot from a .223. Most guys ramp up their game and gear for these huge animals.

    I'm not a mechanical broadhead guy, but neither do I disparage them. They work. So do cut-on-contact fixed blade heads. Most mechanical heads deploy with good dependability. COC heads are 100% always deployed and ready. A well-built COC head is simply stronger in blade design vs a mechanical, which typically has an unsupported outer cutting edge. The ability to cut immediately upon hide contact is important, as it preserves arrow energy for the important task of penetration. Remember that you want to achieve full hide penetration twice if possible, and that's asking a lot of most mechanical heads on a moose. It might be a bad analogy, but would you go into a knife fight with a pop-open folder, or would you choose a fixed-blade fighter...razor sharp to the tip? Failure is something you try to mitigate or eliminate.

    I encourage you to look at the top quality COC heads available today. Some of them are amazing and will make a mechanical head look like toy next to a premium tool. If you choose to go mechanical, select one based on strength of design and minimal failure...then keep your shots close. Good luck!

  3. #3

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    What K Dill said x2. Grab an extra couple dozen 190 Ribteks and pm me when you come up. Can't find them anymore up here and I have less than a dozen left. Best value back in the 90's at $15 1/2doz. You could shoot them into a concrete block, pull'em out, resharpen and go hunting.

  4. #4
    Member 4merguide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boud'arc View Post
    You could shoot them into a concrete block, pull'em out, resharpen and go hunting.
    Really? I'd like to see that......
    Sheep hunting...... the pain goes away, but the stupidity remains...!!!

  5. #5
    Charterboat Operator Abel's Avatar
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    http://www.bowhunting-forum.com/show...(Picture-Heavy)

    These are what I'll be shooting on my Brownie hunt this spring from my recurve.

  6. #6

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    Good choice Abel. That broadhead has brought down a lot of moose, caribou and bears for me and a partner. The people who own and operate the company are the best in the business.

  7. #7
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    I have mates here who drop buff with muzzys and have shot over 50 odd so they aren't so tuff. Lol
    i might send him some broad heads to try out and see how they go.
    I won't shoot unless I'm close and I'm using a 70lb element but can use the guides gun if things aren't allowable for the bow.
    Ill look into the big fixed blades and give them a whirl though , if I can get them to fly they could be any easy option.

    Thanks guys.

    Ps if you do need something from this end of the earth let me know.

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