First off I've never owned a salt water boat, but I've had two sleds and two water ski boats and all 4 were purchased used and all 4 were wiring nightmares. The boat we have now is brand spanking new and the wiring is a WHOLE lot nicer than the previous 4. I've been reading as much on wiring as I can on line from the hull truth but I want to check with Alaskans not Florida sun runners.
A. Here is what I learned:
1. always use tinned marine wire (this was a new one by me and I'm glad I've done so much reading even though my wife says I spend too much time on the Internet)
2a. some guys advocate using shrink tubing with glue inside for a water tight seal. Anchor shrink tubing is one brand I read about and there is another but basically they are the same. Only negative I've read is it's a real booger to get off once it's on.
2b. another guy recommends using regular shrink tubing and then taking a vet syringe with dulled 16 ga needle and injecting Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound via one of the ends.
regarding his section is it over kill or good idea to use 2a or 2b. I'm kind of leaning toward 2b
B. New subject but still has to do with electrical and mechanical just not splicing, but corrosion protection.
1.My son lives on the Big Island of Hawaii and he and his friends all use one or two of these products that they apply to any exposed electrical panels under dash, in the transom area, battery terminals, any hinges or metal parts that are accessible to apply treatment.
a. Boeshield T-9=this one seems to be used for everything on the boat: metal, electrical
b. Corrosion X=this one seems to be used for everything from the trailer to the boat: metal, electrical
c. Corrosion Block=this one from want I'm seeing is only for metal not any electrical
d. LPS lube from LPS labs
This section again I'm leaning toward the Boeshield T-9 but not 100% sold, so just looking for advice.
Thank you, Scott